Noseall.
The joiner apparently spoke with the BCO about laying the hip rafter on the old roof, rather than removing the old roof completely and building from scratch, and the BCO said that'd be fine.
The decision was made by the joiner. First I saw of it was when the timber arrived. I noticed it was 160mm instead of 200 and spoke to the SE about it. He said it would still be okay. Of course he didn't know the design was going to be so different to his drawings.
I'm guessing that the BCO didn't know the joiner had bought, or was planning to buy, 160mm timbers, and was fitting them at 600ctrs.
Ronnie,
There are vertical ties on every rafter, right the way round the roof. The ties are sitting on double 50x200s on the front and back, and on single 50x200s@600oc along the side of the house. What complicates things, in my head, is that this is a 1-3/4 storey building from the ridge forward and a 2-storey building to the rear, so the joists forward of the ridge are basically bolted back onto the rafter (the same rafters that they are supporting - so no single timber can really be considered in isolation.)
The span of the joists is less than 5.5m, I went from memory on that, and got it wrong. The distance from the old side wall of my house (on which one end of the joists are supported (via an additional timber frame as the granite only comes up 3/4 way up the wall) and the new outside wall (where the rafters are nailed on) is actually 4.6m. The actual span of the double joist is 4m before it contacts the supporting rafter, as the first floor bedroom has a 600mm deep inlay on front and side ceilings.
For the rear half of the side of the house, the reverse is true. Rather than the rafters descending beyond the end of the joists as they do on the front half, the rear half is fully two storey. BUT, in order to maintian the slope of the roof across the whole roof face, the rafters in this case are bolted down to the joists, which extend right across from our old granite side wall to the new side wall (timber frame). As this would mean the rafters don't meet the wall head, we have put a catslide dormer across these areas, reducing the pitch.
I've linked to the SE plan here.
www.guycarnegie.com/plans/10.32-8215-02.pdf
It's a real head scratcher for sure how to sort it out now for minimum cash and disruption to the family living underneath!
PS I just found out what a flitch beam is, and it's not what's been used for my hips for sure.
Maybe I should just leave the engineer and joiner to sort it out? My life is stressful enough just now without having to sort out other peoples screw ups
The joiner apparently spoke with the BCO about laying the hip rafter on the old roof, rather than removing the old roof completely and building from scratch, and the BCO said that'd be fine.
The decision was made by the joiner. First I saw of it was when the timber arrived. I noticed it was 160mm instead of 200 and spoke to the SE about it. He said it would still be okay. Of course he didn't know the design was going to be so different to his drawings.
I'm guessing that the BCO didn't know the joiner had bought, or was planning to buy, 160mm timbers, and was fitting them at 600ctrs.
Ronnie,
There are vertical ties on every rafter, right the way round the roof. The ties are sitting on double 50x200s on the front and back, and on single 50x200s@600oc along the side of the house. What complicates things, in my head, is that this is a 1-3/4 storey building from the ridge forward and a 2-storey building to the rear, so the joists forward of the ridge are basically bolted back onto the rafter (the same rafters that they are supporting - so no single timber can really be considered in isolation.)
The span of the joists is less than 5.5m, I went from memory on that, and got it wrong. The distance from the old side wall of my house (on which one end of the joists are supported (via an additional timber frame as the granite only comes up 3/4 way up the wall) and the new outside wall (where the rafters are nailed on) is actually 4.6m. The actual span of the double joist is 4m before it contacts the supporting rafter, as the first floor bedroom has a 600mm deep inlay on front and side ceilings.
For the rear half of the side of the house, the reverse is true. Rather than the rafters descending beyond the end of the joists as they do on the front half, the rear half is fully two storey. BUT, in order to maintian the slope of the roof across the whole roof face, the rafters in this case are bolted down to the joists, which extend right across from our old granite side wall to the new side wall (timber frame). As this would mean the rafters don't meet the wall head, we have put a catslide dormer across these areas, reducing the pitch.
I've linked to the SE plan here.
www.guycarnegie.com/plans/10.32-8215-02.pdf
It's a real head scratcher for sure how to sort it out now for minimum cash and disruption to the family living underneath!
PS I just found out what a flitch beam is, and it's not what's been used for my hips for sure.
Maybe I should just leave the engineer and joiner to sort it out? My life is stressful enough just now without having to sort out other peoples screw ups
