Sounds like the inhibitor is not up to strength. I would add some X100 quick, via the Magnaclean, But sample the water first and put on a bright wire nail test, to confirm.Water that comes out is like an orange colour.
Sounds like the inhibitor is not up to strength. I would add some X100 quick, via the Magnaclean, But sample the water first and put on a bright wire nail test, to confirm.Water that comes out is like an orange colour.
We're waiting for the OP to try lighting it!If the inhibitor is not up to strength, you "air" might in fact be hydrogen or methane caused by internal corrosion
How would running a lower temp help? It’s near max.What flow temperature are you running the boiler at?, if its 65C/70C, try reducing it to 55C ish.
Have you checked that the boiler flow and return pipes are connected properly and not reversed?.
How would running a lower temp help? It’s near max.
I think they’re ok as the boiler was professionally installed and it’s been checked various times. I can triple check.
It’s like the flow reduces. The rads will be hot to the touch but the rooms don’t really heat. Living room will struggle to attain 21c over half an hour for instance. If I do my fart about process it will it it within minutes, getting to 25 without issue..!
Have you always had the problem, or recently started?Nothing leaking. No signs of leak on ceilings or on floors. Been under the floorboards multiple times and no signs of water dripping or leaks there either. Pressure never rises on its own and it doesn’t drop, until I bleed them.
Water that comes out is like an orange colour. The longer I leave in between bleeding, the more it gives off like a metallic sort of smell.
I haven’t tried the classic lighter hydrogen test but I’ve been meaning to.
I’ve always had it since I’ve moved in, persistent across boiler and new rads. Only thing the same as original is run of piping from boiler to upstairs, and a drop from upstairs to downstairs.Have you always had the problem, or recently started?
Are you sure the plumbing is correct, not allowing negative pressure somewhere, so drawing in air? A sketch would be useful
OKI’ve always had it since I’ve moved in, persistent across boiler and new rads. Only thing the same as original is run of piping from boiler to upstairs, and a drop from upstairs to downstairs.
I’ll sketch something up soon and post it so you can see the layout.
The air is never ending. The air only is quite brief.The air im getting out is mixed into the water. water will spray out of the system when bleeding, and it will fizz and spit and fart. its like the air is in the water.If we're assuming it's not the boiler and you don't lose pressure the only likely explanation is you're not getting all the air out. Do you have an external pump or expansion vessel? If your filling loop is permanently connected could a passing valve be hiding the pressure drop?
Never heard of this before; at this point getting tempted to try anything so it could be worth a shot.A Spirovent (Spirotech) deaerator might help?.
Near max, 80C?. Might just be worth reducing it next time you vent it, have a look at this link sometime, even though the system was sealed to "cure" the problem, (post #60) it didn't work, but never told what the problem was, if identified.
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Air Problem in Open Vented System after Boiler Change - UK Plumbers Forums
Hi All, First post here, so please be kind! I am currently having a lot of trouble with air and related noise in my open vented heating system. Long story, with lots of things tried already, so please bear with me… Firstly, a photo of the heart of the system in the garage as it is today (lots...ukplumbersforums.co.uk
Could be slow enough not to notice. Disconnect it and see if the pressure drops.No external pump. I think theres an expansion vessel in the combi? filling loop always connected but it has two off taps. Water meter doesnt rise ever unless we're using tap, ie It's not going into the boiler at a constant slow rate.
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