Change 2 Gang kitchen socket to 4 gang

As luck wouldn't have it, I need a 47mm 2+1 dry lining box.

I can't find one off the shelf.

So am considering using the GA100 to join a Click 47mm 1G and 2G box together.

But I can't find any online wholesalers who sell all three items!
 
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Hi all.
Quick update. I bought the Niglon 2+2+1 and a whole load of 2+2's (minimum order of 5 at 27p each).

I installed the it, and glad i went for the 5gang and not 2 x 2 gangs and a 1 gang.

It all lines up perfectly.


View attachment 357930
Why not put the Plugs into the Socket-Outlets in the same "order" as the appliances on the Bench?
 
As luck wouldn't have it, I need a 47mm 2+1 dry lining box.

I can't find one off the shelf.

So am considering using the GA100 to join a Click 47mm 1G and 2G box together.

But I can't find any online wholesalers who sell all three items!
Click 4 electrics do them and in black which I have never seen before

cef and tlc claim to stock the click boxes. (PS, I have also asked Toolstation if they might start selling them)

cpc (farnell) sell them and they are online.
 
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Thanks for the help!

Click 4 only have black.

I found Downlights Direct who would only sell in 10s.

I looked at CPC and they had the GA100, but described as a box. I tried searching for the 47mm boxes, but they weren't coming up. Eventually found them by using the Click codes. You'd expect a simple website search using a key word to pull them up, but no.

The other funny issue was that the system wouldn't accept the email or password I last used.

Their site said that attempting to register would tell me if I had already registered using that email address so I tried. I didn't have an account using the email address I last used, so maybe they deleted it? Set up a new account using the same email address as before. Odd.

Anyway, ordered them, thank you!
 
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Glad you got sorted. Be aware that getting the existing fixings lugs off the boxes to fit the spacer requires a lot of force! Damhikt!
 
I cheated. I got a sturdy table knife and lifted the base of the lug from the outside of the box, so it cleared the tabs on the inside, while pushing the lug inwards.

It's a nice sturdy assembly and the spacer has spring-loaded grips top and bottom.

IMG_20241012_133336_MP.jpg


IMG_20241012_133554_MP.jpg
 
Oh, BTW....

The parcel arrived today at 13:15.

Just confirmed with RM, the package was sent on the 8th at 14:15.

Nearly double the time it should have taken!
 
Why not put the Plugs into the Socket-Outlets in the same "order" as the appliances on the Bench?
Originally there was a 4 way extender plugged in, which overheated/ melted.

So, I labeled these a while ago as we where constantly pulling in and out (No pun intended), and having to trace the cable to the appliance . Your right, probably time to take the names off.
 
On the other side, where it was hard work to put 2x 2gangs in, where I had to guess the gap. Ive noticed the cable is quite close to the surface, with a thin layer of plaster over it.

This leaves a slight hump over the cable. Do you think it's worth the hassle and risk to open that up, try to make the channel deeper along the length of it and refill?

It seems like hassle and risky (as in don't know how deep i can get it in).
 
I would try to get the sockets properly flush but that's because it would simply annoy me every time I saw it! But as you have started now is the time do it
 
I would try to get the sockets properly flush but that's because it would simply annoy me every time I saw it! But as you have started now is the time do it
I think the sockets are almost flush, to a standard where i am quite happy with them. (Never going to be perfecct in this place unless i get the whole thing gutted and reskimmed.

But you are right. I will probably live to regret it!
 
Hmm....

Fitted my Click dry-lining boxes, but the spring-loaded joint piece was rubbish. It did not grip at all, with the result that the right hand side and the left hand side were well anchored, but the middle was pushing out of the wall.

Ended up fitting a timber frame in the wall and screwing the boxes in place either side of the middle piece.
 
The spring-loaded doobries made a bit of a dent in the cut face of the plasterboard but did not grip at all.
 
I seem to remember that the joiner "doobries" didn't stick out very far so the cut out in the p/board had to be very accurate especially at the join.
 

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