Do you have an expert view? At present it seems to be 2:1, but you could make it a draw if you were inclined to side with flameport.Good luck flameport
Kind Regards, John
Cooker Hood wiring...
- Thread starter Umy786
- Start date
Kind Regards, John
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Only if, as per the OP's diagram , the wall unit goes up to, or very close to, the ceiling.Yes that's ideal, just on the fixing point for the wall unit !
However, your comment does illustrate the fact that the so-called 'safe-zones' at the tops and corners of walls are often really a bit daft (and I, for one, avoid using them like the plague if I can possibly avoid it). Those wishing to be reg-compliant sometimes feel 'obliged' to use them but, quite frankly, I reckon that the cables would often be much safer if they were buried, non-compliantly, outside of these so-called 'safe zones'!
Kind Regards, John
Yes as I have space to feed the PVC conduit in order to protect and make it even more visible behind the floor units, there is a small gap behind as my units aren't 'standard depth' so there is a void of around 100-150mm behind all the floor units, and as I am replacing the worktops this space is easily accessible from the top and the side - I'm happy to channel as much as necessary but not having enough space to channel the cabling in directly behind the floor units is the ultimate issue
Wiring the way Simon35 has proposed would not be possible as the wall units are already fixed on and I don't believe the units will go back on as securely again the second time round
I was also led to believe that taking a spur from the cooker switch / radial circut / connection was a big no no
May I ask If I run a spur off the MUCH more accessible upstairs ring circut, drop it down to within 150mm of the ceiling and install the FCU there, have the flex cable visible between the FCU & the chimney and the rest of the flex to run down within the chimney to it's electrical connection
If so I think I may lean towards this option more (if possible) as it doesn't seem as though there's an agreed safe zone, therefore not everyone being satisfied with what constitutes as a 'safe zone' or what doesn't
That's not to say I disagree with the opinions given, but, and please correct me if I am wrong, spurring off the upstair ring seems to be the most compliant and agreeable within these 'safe zones'
Correct?
Unless anyone can suggest otherwise....?
Do you have an expert view? At present it seems to be 2:1, but you could make it a draw if you were inclined to side with flameport.Good luck flameport
Kind Regards, John
You think this is a game ? Someone has asked advice and you treat it as a point scoring game BH.
DS
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It's not a common arrangement but it can be done.
Yes. Even if the flex is not visible.
Or use the lighting circuit.
No, it's obviously not a game, although your "Good luck flameportYou think this is a game ? Someone has asked advice and you treat it as a point scoring game BH.Do you have an expert view? At present it seems to be 2:1, but you could make it a draw if you were inclined to side with flameport.Good luck flameport
" comment seemed to suggest that you were trying to turn it into one. The OP is faced with conflicting views about flameport's suggested solution, and I'm sure he would therefore value further views, particularly from experts.Kind Regards, John
Not so, so there would be the ideal method if your cooker switch were in the correct position above the worktop.
(There is no point having it out of sight. It is for emergency switching.)
Up from cooker switch to FCU at the top of a wall unit (not visible from floor), horizontal to connector unit behind hood chimney.
Fair enough. That being the case, and given the differences of opinion you have seen about safe zones, you're probably right in saying that your best solution is probably to supply the hood 'from above'.
Kind Regards, John
This is a simple job which you will find in nearly every house in the country.
Why is everything over-complicated when all it needs is to do it 'normally'?
Apart from anything else, my view is that all the cooking appliances should be controlled by one switch.
This switch is an emergency switch, it is not required for isolation, therefore it should be visible.
Why is everything over-complicated when all it needs is to do it 'normally'?
Apart from anything else, my view is that all the cooking appliances should be controlled by one switch.
This switch is an emergency switch, it is not required for isolation, therefore it should be visible.
That would work - although, if the OP's diagram is accurate, I can't really see how the FCU would not be visible.
Kind Regards, John
Can you see on top of your kitchen units?
No, if I had wall units (which I don't!), I probably couldn't - but the OP's cooker switch is not (per his diagram) under the wall units.
However, having re-read your last post, maybe you were talking about the situation (different from OP's diagram) in which the cooker switch were in a convention position, above counter and below wall units, with the cable then going up from there, behind the wall units to a (not visible from flooe) FCU above the unit. Is that what you meant? If so ...
Kind Regards, John
I'm not really sure why you are re-posting that but, as I said, if I now understand correctly what you are proposing there ...
Kind Regards, John
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