Cutting perspex
- Thread starter Keitai
- Start date
Sponsored Links
View attachment 266224 View attachment 266225
Yeah it’s horrible stuff to cut.
D
Deleted member 174758
Because cut edges of acrylic can be as sharp as a knife, you will need to "safe edge" it in the same way you would with glass. Instead of using diamond abrasives a hard cabinet scraper or even a sanding board with P120 grit sandpaper will knock the sharp edge off
Sponsored Links
Regarding fence post I got old ones out with breaker but the bottom part of hole was a tight fit. Better if had more space around for cement (but cemented it now and it's Rick's down there) so possibly the post isn't as strong as it could be. Would another bag of postcrete at the top help or concrete (ballast) left to set?
The water wasn't held at all as it's basically in rocks and water just drained away instantly, consequently used a bin liner at the bottom and added small amounts of water at a time with postcrete in stages.
The water wasn't held at all as it's basically in rocks and water just drained away instantly, consequently used a bin liner at the bottom and added small amounts of water at a time with postcrete in stages.
If you'd planned it a bit better, in terms of replacing the fence posts (if one is rotten the rest won't be far behind) and altering the spacing to suit then you probably wouldn't have needed to cut the sheets. How are you going to deal with that unsupported butt joint? the sheets should be supported on all 4 edges.
D
Deleted member 174758
I missed a small but important point before - when you drill and screw the acrylic, drill your holes slightly oversize for the screws, and use hinge cups beneath the screw heads. Countersunk holes won't work well because cracks can propagate from them when the wind takes a hold and vibrates the plastic. Screw cups overcome this
BTW did you know that Perspex, Lucite, Atohaas, etc are trade (i.e. company/brand) names like "Hoover" and that the material is acrylic?
Ah yes, see we're back to the 6Ps principle again...
BTW did you know that Perspex, Lucite, Atohaas, etc are trade (i.e. company/brand) names like "Hoover" and that the material is acrylic?
Last edited by a moderator:
Gonna use six inch bolts
I was gonna use biggest metal bit I've got or possibly try a spade or auger bit if hole needs to be wider. Only wide drill bits I have. Hopefully metal bit will do
Last edited:
I forgot to mention a couple of points in a previous post. Firstly if you need a nice smooth edge it can be achieved by running a blow torch flame gently along it. Secondly are you aware that perspex will bow in sunlight, because it is relatively thick one side warms & expands quicker than the other. It will return flat when cool but you may need to account for this in your mounting of the sheets.
D
Deleted member 174758
Why? If as I suspect you intend to join two of these pieces butted together on one of those posts I just wonder how much acrylic you'll have left between the hole and the edge once you've drilled a big hole (say 10 or 12mm diameter) to accommodate the square part of the coach bolt, or were you intending to file the files square? What about the need for washers?
Tried drilling acrylic yet? Bits need to be sharp, auger bits (which effectively have a chisel edge) or for that matter screw nose bits (like auger bits and at least some of your spade bits you've shown in the past) won't drill it at all - just skid about. Better starting with a small pilot bit then enlarging with something like a step bit if you really need big holes, IMHO. You need a backer behind the acrylic when drilling it
Personally feel that more, smaller screws would be more effective, and that you need some way (e.g. drilled holes) to relieve air pressure
Hence the recommendation of slightly oversize screw holes and cup washers - because they work. But coach bolts?
Last edited by a moderator:
@JobAndKnock, just a question. Is that circular saw blade fitted correctly? i.e. direction of cut. It looks as though it is cutting down from above, whereas, I am under the idea they should cut from below.
It just doesn't look right to me though I'm willing to admit I may be wrong.
It just doesn't look right to me though I'm willing to admit I may be wrong.
D
Deleted member 174758
Yes, it is correct (are you surprised?) - the saw is a blade left design with the battery holder to the rear
I must admit I did a double take first time I saw it though
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
