Damaged front of van

So should be much cheaper to just get part no.2 than whole subframe? If I get it from Peugeot I guess less hassle to return it if wrong. I can go to my mechanic and check with him. This circled-?ìView attachment 361497

I doubt you need whole subframe (A in your diagram). They're available as seperate items so part no. 2 should suffice.
 
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I doubt you need whole subframe (A in your diagram). They're available as seperate items so part no. 2 should suffice.

Got these quotes for the parts from Peugeot. Think I can put the part numbers into Google or call the breakers yards with them.


Interestingly the water in my header tank has increased in height by 5mm lol. Dunno why.


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I doubt you need whole subframe (A in your diagram). They're available as seperate items so part no. 2 should suffice.
So there's a breakers yard in Southampton with for 4 Experts. I'm gonna head over there. You can tske the crossbar off for £50 or pay more for someone else. Also get undertray I guess. Will I be able to tske it off myself?
 
So there's a breakers yard in Southampton with for 4 Experts. I'm gonna head over there. You can tske the crossbar off for £50 or pay more for someone else. Also get undertray I guess. Will I be able to tske it off myself?

Looks like only 4 bolts holding it on. Only thing is they may not be normal hex-headed bolts. The frames on mine (note - it's a much older model) are held on by bolts that are like a torx - but in reverse. Can't remember what they're called - maybe 'external torx' bolts. Guessing it may be the same type of bolts on yours. You need to have a look at yours and see if you have the right tools. Otherwise may be less aggro to get breaker to remove.

This type of bolt -

 
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So got the front crossbar from subframe thing from scrapyard

The jaws in the lock in back door lock sometimes lock and I need to fiddle with it to open. Worth getting the mechanism (not barrel) off this scraped vehicle for £20?

And a new remote key as doing it manually the key sticks and won't turn in passenger door and back door. Works OK in ignition? Is the easiest solution just to get a new remote fob to stop manually sticking key in lock and wearing it out?





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Sure looks like it!
Those funny bolts are female torx. Don't try shifting them without the correct socket!
John :)

I've no idea how long it's been there. Thinking of putting some wood underneath to see if there's any new drops. If it is oil, what does that mean? How serious? It's going into my mechanics next Friday to repair damage from hitting bollard.
 
It’s hardy a desperate situation unless you get a complaint!
Likely causes are a damaged sump plug washer, a drip from the oil filter housing ( unlikely), or maybe a crankshaft to gearbox oil seal. This is a big job!
Rusty and porous sump pans aren’t unknown either.
Find out where the leak is coming from, but don’t worry or panic about getting it fixed.....looks like it’s been there a long time!
John
 
Be careful swapping locks and remotes. The back door lock might be OK to swap, but some cars (for security reasons) have locks "coded" to the central computer that looks after the remote door locking and immobiliser. The remotes will almost certainly be similarly "coded" so just swapping one won't work.
 
It’s hardy a desperate situation unless you get a complaint!
Likely causes are a damaged sump plug washer, a drip from the oil filter housing ( unlikely), or maybe a crankshaft to gearbox oil seal. This is a big job!
Rusty and porous sump pans aren’t unknown either.
Find out where the leak is coming from, but don’t worry or panic about getting it fixed.....looks like it’s been there a long time!
John
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Oil looks ok, doesn't it?
 
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