DIY gas thread - I'm confused

Or does it give the basics and then rely on a copy of the manufacturer's instructions being available.

Bit more than the basics but wouldn't cover every individual appliance. There are loads of different specialisms/areas of work which an RGI can concentrate on and should mean that they have a comprehensive knowledge of them. The back of their gas safe card will show which areas they are competent in and they shouldn't work on anything outside of these areas. How often would a customer check this though? Almost never I suspect.


https://www.sgas.co.uk/technical-bulletin-acs-assessment-codes/

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How much is "taught" in he CKR1 curriculum ? It surely cannot cover every type of cooker and hob. It would take months of teaching. Or does it give the basics and then rely on a copy of the manufacturer's instructions being available.

Replacing a glass oven door does not involve gas work, but a glass cover on a gas hob and the door to a gas grill chamber may or may not have an inter lock to the gas valve. Necessary to prevent a hob from being lit when the cover was down or the grill being lit when the door was shut.

Please re-read what you have asked, because glass is glass, and wouldn’t be subjected to a safety shut off for a gas valve. It wouldn’t cover every hob, cooker and grill, but it would teach you about the different types likely to encounter. MI’s being available is a must for anyone working on any appliance.
 
Replacing a glass oven door does not involve gas work
so when you replace it how do you test and certify that it is fitted safely and sealing properly when the gas oven is in use , of course it is gas work and yes you must be GSR to do it, very few would bother and would leave it to white goods engineer with a gas ticket
 
how do you test and certify that it is fitted safely and sealing properly when the gas oven is in use

Can I ask you to suggest how the oven door seal could be tested ?

Is it a room seal to prevent combustion products getting into the kitchen ? ( I think not )
 
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As far as I know cookers below 7kW do not need a flue and combustion products are released into the room. Obviously common sense suggests the room should have adequate ventilation while the cooker is in use.
 
Not room sealed but all ovens and cookers have a a flue , not to outside, but to ensure that the flame picture is correct and the air for combustion comes from the designed place

Our double oven has a gap in the top section of the door seals, I wouldn't call that strictly a flue.
 
OK let me ask the DIY gas question by way of example; like I did before:

Joe bloggs decides he wants to DIY replace his boiler. He puts pen to paper and determines the appropriate pipesize for the gas run is 22mm. He proceeds to install the boiler.
  • He positions the boiler and flu correctly (away from any windows at an appropriate height, etc)
  • He cuts the flu down to the correct size
  • All pipework is installed and clipped properly
  • Jig installed correctly and boiler correctly mounted
  • Flu installed correctly as per MI's
  • Condense is installed correctly and terminates in the sewage drain
  • 3 A fuse installed with Fixed Fused Spur
  • Wiring is done correctly and stat installed
  • He tests the gas with a manometer
  • In short he does everything correctly (except the below)
Joe bloggs doesnt do the following:
  • Use a FGA
  • Fill in the benchmark
  • Register for warranty
The boiler works fine and serves the house perfectly fine. Now the nosey neighbour reports to the police again. What is dibble gonna do in this situation?
You can get an FGA still with months of calibration left on it for about £150. Re-calibration at around £120 if you wanted.

Without it, I don't know how you would know there are no products of combustion going out the flue and then coming back in? I guess a CO alarm might help but it won't be as sensative.
 
You can get an FGA still with months of calibration left on it for about £150. Re-calibration at around £120 if you wanted.

Without it, I don't know how you would know there are no products of combustion going out the flue and then coming back in? I guess a CO alarm might help but it won't be as sensative.

Can you raise the dead?
 
Its a good topic surely not only confined to 2004, 2006, 2014 and 2021.

My own thoughts are Gas DIYers should be made to go through a simple 1 day course. Morning learn some basic theory of gas, what a letby and tightness test are for and also about the dangers of CO etc including how to use and interpret the results of an FGA. Afternoon have to perform a live test on a home mock up to prove that there is no gas leak and no products of combustation of any significance entering the mocked up dwelling.

£250. Fail and you have to re-take. Pass and you can work on your own system for 5 years so long as you follow the rules you were taught including having access to manometer and FGA.
 
Its a good topic surely not only confined to 2004, 2006, 2014 and 2021.

My own thoughts are Gas DIYers should be made to go through a simple 1 day course. Morning learn some basic theory of gas, what a letby and tightness test are for and also about the dangers of CO etc including how to use and interpret the results of an FGA. Afternoon have to perform a live test on a home mock up to prove that there is no gas leak and no products of combustation of any significance entering the mocked up dwelling.

£250. Fail and you have to re-take. Pass and you can work on your own system for 5 years so long as you follow the rules you were taught including having access to manometer and FGA.
1 day course, you taking the pis.s?
 

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