Does a new cooker extractor need a plug socket if it has a plug?

[ydrol]

I have removed an old extractor (installed by previous owner) to be replaced with a new one.

The old one did not have a plug but the cable was attached to a live cable behind the wall using a connector block.

My handyman says the new extractor fan has to plug into a plug socket?

Does it? Could I not just cut the plug off the new extractor and connect it in the same way as the old one? Should I first find out if there is an isolator switch? and should it be a certain distance from the extractor fan.

I recently had an electrician sign off on everything prior to rental so I dont know why I should need to install a plug socket just because the new extractor has a plug on it?

Can anyone confirm?
All of the kitchen wiring is about 15 years old. The rest of the house wiring is much older.

 

[EFLImpudence]

My handyman says the new extractor fan has to plug into a plug socket?Does it?

Not necessarily.

Could I not just cut the plug off the new extractor and connect it in the same way as the old one?

If the old one was/is connected satisfactorily.
When you say "behind the wall", do you mean in a proper back box?

Should I first find out if there is an isolator switch? and should it be a certain distance from the extractor fan.

It is usual to fit one - A Fused Connection Unit is usual. No distance requirement.

I recently had an electrician sign off on everything prior to rental so I dont know why I should need to install a plug socket just because the new extractor has a plug on it?

You don't have to fit a socket.

 

[Tigercubrider]

it makes sense to fit a fused double pole switch so that any repairs can be done.

 

[ydrol]

Not necessarily.

When you say "behind the wall", do you mean in a proper back box?

I can just see a live cable behind the plaster.
I've wrapped the end with amalgamating tape.

EDIT: Just confirmed there is an isolator switch on the wall I've never used and it does appear to make the cable live (using AC proximity test tool on laser tape measure)

 

[Tigercubrider]

it has to be double pole - i.e. switch live AND neutral to enable safe working

 

[JohnW2]

it has to be double pole - i.e. switch live AND neutral to enable safe working

Whilst DP isolation "seems to make sense", even BS7671 does not actually require isolation to be double-pole in TN installations. In practice, unless it is a 'light switch' it almost certainly will be DP.

Kind Regards, John

 

[ydrol]

Some pics. Previous owner put in metal mains Sockets in the kitchen only but all tested and signed off. last year. (unrelated note - all light switches are plastic but the electrician also made me put in plastic screws on all light switches because the lighting circuit is not earthed ) [edited for clarity]

 

[WabbitPoo]

As a non-spark, I find that odd...I'd prefer a proper earth with metal fittings. I look forward to n expert coming along to tell us.

 

[ydrol]

As a non-spark, I find that odd...I'd prefer a proper earth with metal fittings. I look forward to n expert coming along to tell us.

Ah whole house really needed re-wiring - I think its original wiring in 1930s house? Plastic screws was the cheap stop-gap option for certificate. I had limited budget. He also downgraded main fuse from 30 something to 18amps IIRC (approx number from memory!) Only the kitchen has relatively modern wiring ..

 

[WabbitPoo]

I think the point is that should a live wire become loose and into contact with the metal back box or front plate then an earth wire will protect you. Fitting plastic screws won't help, but as I say, I'm no expert.

 

[ydrol]

Ah, light switches are standard plastic ones. Only the kitchen has metal switches / sockets on the mains circuit (not lights). So there is no exposed metal at all on any light switches in the house. And it will be a clause in my tenancy agreement not to tamper or change switches nor install metal light fittings as the light circuit is not earthed.

 

[stillp]

The front plates must either be plastic, or be earthed. Fitting plastic screws makes them more dangerous.

 

[JohnW2]

The front plates must either be plastic, or be earthed. Fitting plastic screws makes them more dangerous.

The front plates are plastic. Given the non-earthed back box, the plastic screws make them safer.

Kind Regards, John

 

[stillp]

Previous owner put in metal mains Sockets in the kitchen

 

[John D v2.0]

Whilst DP isolation "seems to make sense", even BS7671 does not actually require isolation to be double-pole in TN installations. In practice, unless it is a 'light switch' it almost certainly will be DP.

Kind Regards, John

I don't want to be the pedant, but a double pole isolator is needed somewhere, but only at the origin, i.e. the main isolator. All others don't need, although usually instructions for things request double pole isolators anyway, presumably local to the appliance.

Also BS requires polarity to be correct (basically for that reason), but if it's not for some reason, then a double pole isolator is the next best thing.