But then we wouldn't of had the drill test. --- Which I won by the way.
I think you would of got on much better if you first used a 3 or 4mm CYL-9
Drilling into VERY HARD concrete
- Thread starter XrayDave
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I think you would of got on much better if you first used a 3 or 4mm CYL-9
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Perhaps so, but that would have added more expense to the job.
I think that the CYL-9 bits will deal with our 'engineering' bricks - providing the weather is dry and not windy, I'll test that out tomorrow, if not it will be Tuesday.
I'll probably get a 3.5mm and/or 4mm CYL-9 at some point for a pilot hole.
XRD
There are no winners in this thread.
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My advice would be to look for a good second-hand SDS corded drill on FBMP. Most tradies I know are upgrading to cordless ones, so I think you'll get a bargain.
Your future self will thank your present self multiple times!
Confused? I am, and I wrote it!
Keep us posted!
Olly
Your future self will thank your present self multiple times!
Confused? I am, and I wrote it!
Keep us posted!
Olly
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Like cats then! Lol
Massive. Like night and day.
One relies on a hit-and-miss type hammer where the tool is vibrating. SDS uses a percussion strike at the base of the bit and will punch through anything.
I see - thank you.
A SDS drill will continue to drill a hole through a brick, even when the hardened tip is missing.
Thanks. Didn't know that's how a SDS drill worked.
A quick 'Google' tells me that SDS stands for 'Slotted Drive Shaft' and that the drill bit moves forwards and backwards within the chuck. A 'hammer drill' moves the chuck containing the drill bit backwards and forwards
Makes me think that with lots of use an ordinary 'hammer drill' will 'wear' and ultimately, the 'hammer action' will lose its efficacy?
Dave
There is no comparison really. SDS is brutal in comparison and effortless.
A non sds drill- as it rotates, the drill bit momentarily drops back towards you. It is you pushing against the drill that forces it forward again.
A SDS drill actually fires the drill bit forward.
Not the best explanation.
If you run either drill without touching the wall you will see that the SDS is actively firing the drill bit forward. You will not notice a difference with the non-sds drill.
Actually it stands for Steck – Dreh – Sitz ("Insert – Drill – Attachment").
Not surprisingly, Bosch (who invented it in 1975) used a German acronym.
According to Wikipedia, Bosch use "Special Direct System" in non-german speaking countries.
Drill bit shank - Wikipedia
That is good question.
I have an 30+ year old corded metabo hammer drill. I haven't noticed a deterioration in the efficiency of the hammer feature, but I seldom use the drill anymore.
In the above image, parts 53 and 50 look like they are the hammer action components. I guess in time the "sticky out bits" on the rear of 53 will become less deep and possibly rounded.
bits of flint and steel reinforcing
The material within is dense because it is vibrated to rid the conc of air.
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