Einhell petrol mower GC-PM 46/3 S drive

Another weapon in my arsenal......
A length of 6mm threaded bar, heat flattened at one end and drilled to accept the spring hook.
A piece of flat steel bar spanning the area of the mower deck, drilled 7mm in the middle.
Spin a nut on the threaded bar and the spring will stretch without any trouble at all.
John
That sounds like a possible "Plan D" (or is it Plan Z ? ) ... but I hope I don't need to go that far down the alphabet :)
 
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The adjuster only influences the actual inner cable. I'm away from the machine at the moment, so cant't look, but I have a feeling that "when properly routed", the outer of the cable is constrained by some sort of clamp (which would be very difficult to get at once the spring was installed) and that's what may restrict rotation of the gearbox. However, with a bit of luck my hazy recollection may be incorrect ;)
My recollection was, fortunately, a bit incorrect. The clutch cable is held not by a 'clamp' but merely a 'slip' made out of a bit of twisted wire. As I will be shortly reporting, that was not a problem ....
1724597521531.png


Talking of the clutch cable, I think I descriobe it as looking as if it was "on it'slast legs". Now that I've got it off (and replaced it), it's apparent that it was close to being "on it's last leg" (singular) since, at the business end, only two or three strands of the cable are still surviving ...

1724597650415.png


More very soon!

Kind Regards, John
 
Right. I think I have, at long last, 'won'!

Whilst I'm very grateful for all the suggestions about ways to deal with strong springs, I was in luck and only needed 'Plan A' (not Plans B to Z!). Even with the (new) clutch cable 'properly routed' (and in its 'clip') I was able to rotate the axle/gearbox enough to get the spring on without having to stretch it at all. The strength of the spring was such that it then took a bit of 'wellie' (and some improvised tools) to get the belt on, but I eventually succeeded - and all now seems to work 'as the doctor ordered'. I've just 'field tested' it' by moving a small bit (about 150 m²) of my (large!) lawn, and is seems to be fine. It's hard to show the spring in place, but ....

1724598159836.png
1724598177802.png


1724598202339.png


So, I guess it's been worth it. I seem to have got the not-too-old machine back into working order at a cost not much over 10% of the cost of a replacement machine, and it has certainly been 'satisfying' to succeed. Of course, if I factored in the cost of my time 'at my usual hourly rate' the financial arithmetic would be very different, but that's not really the point!

I'm very grateful to all of you hear who have shown interest and support throughout this exercise!

Kind Regards, John
 
Nice one John, that’s all you need!
I’ve seen a few bodges in my time, and excess belt tension wears the pulley razor thin.
Regards
John
 
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Always good to sort things......I have a Viking T4 garden tractor in just now, just back from the 'Agents' with a sticker saying 'Electrically Dead' - and so it was. They didn't want to venture further.
Two relays, both with open circuit coils, and both headlamp bulbs burnt out and very blackened.
Anyhoo, two Nissan Micra relays from the spares box and two new bulbs and we're in business once more......the owner - a farmer - had tried to jump start the thing from his combine harvester.
What he didn't realise that the combine is 24v (two 12v's in series) hence the issue.
The genuine indicator was the blackened bulbs, which usually means excess voltage.

The Viking range is actually made by Stihl, and is superbly built with quality metal for once. Comes complete with a Briggs Intek lump, I guess around 350cc. A recommended bit of kit! i don't recognise the transmission though - maybe that's a Stihl unit rather than Tufftorq.
John :)
 
What sort of agents are those or is their hourly rate so high it was not economically viable :giggle: ;)
 
I’m afraid I can’t answer that one, but presumably somewhere in Durham where the machine came from.
I sort of smell a rat here......the drive belt was routed in a way it couldn’t possibly work, and one of the engine electrical plugs was disconnected too.....never mind the other issues.
Maybe they were about to say the machine was knackered but we’ll give you fifty quid for it.....I don’t know.
Anyway I hope to keep the machine, I’ve put a new battery on and had the deck blasted and painted so it’s cost me £160 so far plus lots of time.
It has to be worth close on a grand and I’ll have it finished by the end of the week.
John
 
The Viking range is actually made by Stihl, and is superbly built with quality metal for once. Comes complete with a Briggs Intek lump, I guess around 350cc. A recommended bit of kit! i don't recognise the transmission though - maybe that's a Stihl unit rather than Tufftorq.
John :)

Talking of which, my little tractor has an issue, which has been gradually getting worse, so needs investigating.....<?bv

Lawnflite 403

The accelerator pedal (a sort of go/stop pedal), has needed to be pressed lower/harder, over the past few years. At first, it would begin to drive, after just pressing it a little way, but as the mowing progressed, it would need pressing down more and more, to get it to move. Now it consistently needs to be pressed almost all the way down, to get it to move.

It uses two drive belts, one from engine to the middle, then second from middle, back to the diff. at the rear.
 
Had a similar thing with my old tractor/mower (different make though). It was due to the clutch cable stretching prior to it snapping all together
 
If it has a Tufftorq transmission Harry, check that the oil reservoir is full....that's for the K46 particularly.
John :)
 
Had a similar thing with my old tractor/mower (different make though). It was due to the clutch cable stretching prior to it snapping all together

If it has a Tufftorq transmission Harry, check that the oil reservoir is full....that's for the K46 particularly.
John :)

No cables, no hydraulics, it's all metal arms and levers. Pressing the go peddle, just takes up slack in the drive belt, by twisting a pair of pulleys. The 'gearing', is a similar idea to the old DAF system, of V pulleys.
 
No cables, no hydraulics, it's all metal arms and levers. Pressing the go peddle, just takes up slack in the drive belt, by twisting a pair of pulleys. The 'gearing', is a similar idea to the old DAF system, of V pulleys.

Here is what I did today, to fix it...


Seems that the front belt, engine pulley, to the variable speed pulley - had either stretched, or worn enough, to need some adjustment.
 

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