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that clock sends the signal to the meter to switch to the off peak tarrif. It also energises the things attached to that small fuse box.
So as it is it'll happen an hour too late. Nothing major. And the electric supplier would change it, free of charge - its their equipment.
They'd probably change it for a radio teleswitch, which takes the signal from a remote station to change over. No issue with timers then.
So as it is it'll happen an hour too late. Nothing major. And the electric supplier would change it, free of charge - its their equipment.
They'd probably change it for a radio teleswitch, which takes the signal from a remote station to change over. No issue with timers then.
Wise words softus, never thought of that!!!!!
1) You don't reset the time clock, its sealed, its the DNOs job, and no it doesn't matter to you unless the fact that your cheap rate period is an hour out bothers you
2), 10.5kw shower is a tad under 45A, the biggest fuse in that CU is a 30A (red dot) and in fact a 30A is the biggest its designed to take (its from a past era when 7kw showers where what you had).
This is what sometimes happens when they are overloaded in this way: //www.diynot.com/wiki/lib/exe/...ket.com/albums/i62/RFLighting/07112006291.jpg !
It would be an advantage to know what fuse the shower was on and see the boards eith the covers off, fuses have to be out and isolators off for this, and keep your fingers well away from the incomming terminals, they'll still be live!, oh and its best done in daylight hours!
*and a note about switching those isolators, get rid of as much of your load on them as you can before you do it, switch off the cooker, shower, kettle, iron, etc, basically as much as possible, its not good to switch them when there is a load on them!
2), 10.5kw shower is a tad under 45A, the biggest fuse in that CU is a 30A (red dot) and in fact a 30A is the biggest its designed to take (its from a past era when 7kw showers where what you had).
This is what sometimes happens when they are overloaded in this way: //www.diynot.com/wiki/lib/exe/...ket.com/albums/i62/RFLighting/07112006291.jpg !
It would be an advantage to know what fuse the shower was on and see the boards eith the covers off, fuses have to be out and isolators off for this, and keep your fingers well away from the incomming terminals, they'll still be live!, oh and its best done in daylight hours!
*and a note about switching those isolators, get rid of as much of your load on them as you can before you do it, switch off the cooker, shower, kettle, iron, etc, basically as much as possible, its not good to switch them when there is a load on them!
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D
Deleted member 64697
Hi Steve and Softus,
What is a CU, and what fuse would I need for my shower? Remember I'm a novice but I'm learning fast
Given that the shower is hot in the evening, can the problem simply be the fuse?
FYI, I need to sign off now but will be back tomorrow night as this is really helpful
What is a CU, and what fuse would I need for my shower? Remember I'm a novice but I'm learning fast
Given that the shower is hot in the evening, can the problem simply be the fuse?
FYI, I need to sign off now but will be back tomorrow night as this is really helpful
D
Deleted member 64697
Adam,
Missed your message whilst replying. Just so I'm ready for tomorrow, to see the board, do I just
1. turn off everything (iron etc...)
2. turn off fuse box switch
3. pull out all fuses (checking the shower as I go along and see if it still works)
4. unscrew cover
5. board should now be visible?
Night!
Missed your message whilst replying. Just so I'm ready for tomorrow, to see the board, do I just
1. turn off everything (iron etc...)
2. turn off fuse box switch
3. pull out all fuses (checking the shower as I go along and see if it still works)
4. unscrew cover
5. board should now be visible?
Night!
Stands for Consumer Unit, which is short for Consumer Control Unit, which is basically yer fusebox.tuttifruiti said:
The same as, or greater than, the expected constant load on the circuit, but less than the current carrying capacity of the cable. There are method for calculating the optimum rating for each type of circuit and specific installation.
You might be about to learn that your installation is dangerous.
I don't see how it can be, since you have rewireable fuses. However, it's possible that there's another CU somewhere with an RCD in it and a bigger circuit protective device. There just isn't enough information yet.
Almost!, but the answer to 3 will always be 'No' because of 2!,
... its late!.... when you have removed a fuse, isolator back on, try shower, switch shower off, isolator off, fuse back in, then move onto the next one(you should always have the isolator off when removing or reinserting fuses)
Make sure you don't touch anything inside when you have the cover off (if you don't feel happy doing it, then dont try and take it off)
Not really the fuse, but I suspect the connections in the Distrubution board/CU/Fuseboard, your shower somehow being affected by that timeclock I reckon, but I'm not quite sure why yet!, but there is something else to it as well, otherwise the neon on the shower switch wouldn't light when it was running cold (incidentally, does this go out when you try and switch the shower itself on?)
no it doesn't I looked at the wires coming out of the meter. The timer just changes to the off-peak recording dials. The same circuits are energised 24hours are day but charged at different rates according to time.
Or have I missed something?
edited: my mistake, see below
If it does cut the power, then it would be wierd to connect the shower to an off-peak supply. Especialy through a 15A rewirable fuseholder with a nail in it.
can we have a wider-angle photo showing the cables between the meter and the CUs please.
Look at the pair of tails comming out of the middle of the henley, neutral goes off to the left, while phase goes through time clock and then goes off stage to the left
Are you really sure that you've got the shower you think you have?
Just thinking outside the box, but it sounds to me like you've got a pumped shower and that in the mornings there's no hot water in the tank and in the evenings there is.
Can you post the details from the shower data plate.
As has been said, there is no fuse in either of your CUs suitable for a 10.5kW shower.
Just thinking outside the box, but it sounds to me like you've got a pumped shower and that in the mornings there's no hot water in the tank and in the evenings there is.
Can you post the details from the shower data plate.
As has been said, there is no fuse in either of your CUs suitable for a 10.5kW shower.
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