First time fitting kitchen - Any tips advise would help

[Jonny Vee]

Decor end panel. What the best way to cut and what best tool to use? I have decor panel which need to be 20mm shorter. Do you place the cut side on the floor or under worktop?
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[Deleted member 174758]

Best way to cut them is from the rear surface using a plunging rail saw and guide rail, fine tooth blade (e.g 160/165mm needs something like 42 to 48t, but no higher). It doesn't really matter where the cut goes so long as it is not visible and it is adequately sealed (e.g silicone, D3 or D4 PVA, etc) to prevent moisture ingress. I do this on any unsealed surface such as rear edges of cabinets etc

 

[Jonny Vee]

Best way to cut them is from the rear surface using a plunging rail saw and guide rail, fine tooth blade (e.g 160/165mm needs something like 42 to 48t, but no higher). It doesn't really matter where the cut goes so long as it is not visible and it is adequately sealed (e.g silicone, D3 or D4 PVA, etc) to prevent moisture ingress. I do this on any unsealed surface such as rear edges of cabinets etc

I have ordered an 80t blade for the plunge saw. Thought more T better the cut. Do I have to revert back to less T. What's the difference. Thanks

 

[Deleted member 174758]

At 80t the material load being carried in the gullets (which are smaller than those on a 48t blade) can become so great that the blade gets very hot and scorches the material, and that can also warp the blade, leading to poor edges. I tried a very high tooth count blade a number of years back and found that it cut more slowly (it tended to baulk if fed too fast, possibly because it was warping a little), that the cut wasn't as good as an OEM or better quality aftermarket blades (I had a Festool, the aftermarket blades were from Atkinson-Walker, Leitz and Freud) and that the blades tended to scorch the material more readily (no good for glued joints as glue won't adhere to scorched surfaces). The kerf was also different to the OEM blades ,(think about the effect of different kerf blades on your anti splinter strips). It is interesting that none of the top end marques (Festool, Bosch, Makita, Mafell, Metabo, Virutex, etc) offers blades with even 60t and most standard blades are 42 to 50t

 

[Jonny Vee]

At 80t the material load being carried in the gullets (which are smaller than those on a 48t blade) can become so great that the blade gets very hot and scorches the material. I tried a very high tooth count blade a number of years back and found that it cut more slowly (it tended to baulk if fed too fast, possibly because it was warping a little), that the cut wasn't as good as an OEM or better quality aftermarket blade (I had a Festool, the aftermarket blades were from Atkinson-Walker, Leitz and Freud) and that the blades tended to scorch more readily. They were so a different to the OEM blades ,(think about the effect of different kerf blades on your snti splinter strips). It is interesting that none of the top end marques (Festool, Bosch, Makita, Mafell, Metabo, Virutex, etc) offers blades with even 60t and most standard blades are 42 to 50t

That's interesting. I'm going to pick up a festool and never used higher teeth blade before. Your explanation makes sense. I have ordered an after market blade as the festool one cost too much for just a single job. Will replace it with a 48t now as panels are 600mm and even got long 2m to cut. I'm sure blade would get hot to fuse the material. Many thanks

 

[Jonny Vee]

At 80t the material load being carried in the gullets (which are smaller than those on a 48t blade) can become so great that the blade gets very hot and scorches the material, and that can also warp the blade, leading to poor edges. I tried a very high tooth count blade a number of years back and found that it cut more slowly (it tended to baulk if fed too fast, possibly because it was warping a little), that the cut wasn't as good as an OEM or better quality aftermarket blades (I had a Festool, the aftermarket blades were from Atkinson-Walker, Leitz and Freud) and that the blades tended to scorch the material more readily (no good for glued joints as glue won't adhere to scorched surfaces). The kerf was also different to the OEM blades ,(think about the effect of different kerf blades on your anti splinter strips). It is interesting that none of the top end marques (Festool, Bosch, Makita, Mafell, Metabo, Virutex, etc) offers blades with even 60t and most standard blades are 42 to 50t

Which one would be okay of the following

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Key-Blades...&qid=1626381944&sprefix=festool+blade+&sr=8-9

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TCT16060T-...qid=1626382045&sprefix=festool+blade+&sr=8-11

Saxton does the 48t too and are cheap but never used them before.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Whilst I haven't used the Key blades personally, I have heard good things about them from other Festool users. I have used OEM blades on my Festool together with Leitz blades (they actually manufacture for Festool), Atkinson-Walker (British) and Freud. All had a 2.2mm kerf, the corded TS55/TS55R standard. The Saxton blades are better than many lower cost blades but the different kerf to Festool.means that you may end up cutting into the anti splinter strip. The other thing which gives a better cut is using the saw on a vacuum. The effect is three fold: it removes waste which in turn gives a cleaner cut with less chance of scorching, it helps cool the blade again reducing chance of scorching and prolonging blade life and it is better for you not to breath chipboard dust

 

[Jonny Vee]

Plunge saw arrived. It's a ts55. Has got a festool blade on it but not sure how much use has had. Any test I can run before putting new key blade on?

I'm going to cut 18mm panel which I believe is mdf wrapped. What depth and speed plunge need to have?

Thanks

 

[Deleted member 174758]

The only test is to make actual cut in the actual material you will be cutting. This might be something like taking a 5mm trim off the end of a decor panel whete you know you will need to take, say, 20mm off for the final cut

 

[Jonny Vee]

Another stupid question.

When hanging the wall units due of the railing thickness on the hang system the cabinet comes down to an angle leaving a gap to the bottom of 7/8mm How do you fix this? packers or something else?

Thanks

 

[JohnD]

you notch the back edge of the cabinets so they fit neatly over the rail.

preferably start with a spare one on the floor so you can test you have got the positioning right.

you can use a marker on the cabinets that are already hung

it is very much easier to do this before hanging the cabinets.

you can do it with a jig saw, multicutter or padsaw. I think a multicutter might be neatest.

cut and hang one cabinet before cutting the rest, to be sure you are doing it neatly and in the right place. If you start with one in a corner, or the middle of the run, any mistake will not be visible.

If you are skilled, you can cut the rail so it finishes just inside the end of the final cab and does not project into the side panel. You need to get the end a good fit, with a screw into the wall at the end, since you definitely don't want the cab slipping off the end, or the rail pulling out. I ran rail all round the wall, painted to match, and it is not really noticeable, being so high. I can move cabinets, or add more, at whim. I am not a pro.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I've generally used a router with a bottom bearing template trim bit. Makes for a neat cut out. If the cabinet ends are being civered by decor panels or hidden against a wall you just do the lot, otherwise the outer (visible) gable ends are left uncut and the rails carefully trimmed to size

 

[Jonny Vee]

The only test is to make actual cut in the actual material you will be cutting. This might be something like taking a 5mm trim off the end of a decor panel whete you know you will need to take, say, 20mm off for the final cut

I've generally used a router with a bottom bearing template trim bit. Makes for a neat cut out. If the cabinet ends are being civered by decor panels or hidden against a wall you just do the lot, otherwise the outer (visible) gable ends are left uncut and the rails carefully trimmed to size

Thanks. Did not think about trimming the rail thickness into the cabinet.

Got router. A bit like this one would be okay
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gasea-2-In...ywords=trim+bit+router&qid=1626644252&sr=8-22

Do you make cut a bit wider for adjustment up and down?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Got router. A bit like this one would be okay
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gasea-2-In...ywords=trim+bit+router&qid=1626644252&sr=8-22

Bottom bearing bit is good. It is a bit safer if you use a larger diameter bit (1/2in or 12mm) rather than a 1/4in diameter bit. The small diameter ones have a tendency to bend if pushed too hard

Do you make cut a bit wider for adjustment up and down?

Yes

 

[Jonny Vee]

Wall units. Do you still stick 4 screws ( 2 under hinges and 2 on the back) to keep them tight all together?