First time fitting kitchen - Any tips advise would help

[Deleted member 174758]

Yes

 

[Jonny Vee]

Any tips on how installing handles. Template or something similar to have them on the same spot?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

You can get a relatively cheap (£11.99) drawer handle drilling jig made by Hafele from Screwfix. Toolstation also do the same jig, but are a quid more expensive. Solves a lot of the consistency problems folk have in hole positioning vfor lesscthan the ckst of a door. You can use a combi square, but I find it needs more than one because if you have to reset one frequently, inaccuracy creeps in and you might just drill a door in the wrong place at some point (don't ask.how I know!). Drill from front to back and clamp a piece of scrap MFC, plywood, MDF, etc to the back face of the door (2 clamps) to prevent blow out where the bit exits the door. Use a brad point centre bit - 6mm. That will get covered by the screw head but l gives you a bit of 'wiggle room' to cover not drilling dead straight (i.e perpenficular to the back of the door - not all doors have s flat face), etc. Buy some of the snap to length type screws (pennies) to replavce OEM ones as they are easier to cut to length (which will in sny case require a junior hacksaw, a file and handle, and a pair of pliers or a small portable vice to do)

 

[Jonny Vee]

You can get a relatively cheap (£11.99) drawer handle drilling jig made by Hafele from Screwfix. Toolstation also do the same jig, but are a quid more expensive. Solves a lot of the consistency problems folk have in hole positioning vfor lesscthan the ckst of a door. You can use a combi square, but I find it needs more than one because if you have to reset one frequently, inaccuracy creeps in and you might just drill a door in the wrong place at some point (don't ask.how I know!). Drill from front to back and clamp a piece of scrap MFC, plywood, MDF, etc to the back face of the door (2 clamps) to prevent blow out where the bit exits the door. Use a brad point centre bit - 6mm. That will get covered by the screw head but l gives you a bit of 'wiggle room' to cover not drilling dead straight (i.e perpenficular to the back of the door - not all doors have s flat face), etc. Buy some of the snap to length type screws (pennies) to replavce OEM ones as they are easier to cut to length (which will in sny case require a junior hacksaw, a file and handle, and a pair of pliers or a small portable vice to do)

Very useful and easy to use. Thanks

 

[Jonny Vee]

Decor panels around narrow island. I have two side and one back panel which need to be cut to size. How do you hide the cut side on the corner when both panel need to be shortened?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

You could make mitre cuts (very tricky) or you could straight cut and edge band the end panels and install them so they overlay the ends of the (trimmed) back panel

 

[Jonny Vee]

You could make mitre cuts (very tricky) or you could straight cut and edge band the end panels and install them so they overlay the ends of the (trimmed) back panel

Sound very tricky even the overlay ends. Will not this be visible? Do you cut/remove the edge with standing knife or still with plunge saw?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I've done the mitre cut maybe twice, using biscuits and mitre adhesive to help hold the joint together. It was really awkward to achieve a decent finish.

I'm curious about the size of your decor panels. I expected you to say that they were something like 600mm wide, in which case you wouldn't need to alter the depth (front to back) of the sides, only the height (to scribe to the floor, etc) Could you give us the sizes of your decor panels together with the size and make up of your island, please? Most kitchen designers take the sizes of available decor panels into account when designing stuff like the island to avoid the need for visible cut ends, so before proceeding I'd just like to check

 

[Jonny Vee]

You right the decor panel are just 20mm above 600mm and did not think about making island a bit wider to avoid cutting. As the back panel will now pushed away from the cabinet would you stick few piece of timber between the back cabinet exposing them just the required depth to screw the brackets? I also will need to install a socket on the back panel. Any tips on this too?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Normally, if you specify that the base cabinets are for use in an island I'd hope that the cabinet backd would be flush (i.e. no service voids) and of carcass side thickness (generally 18mm)

If they are like that you could easily fix a couple of plywood or MDF bearers of the right thickness to the backs to space off and to fix through to carry the panels. If the cab backs have service voids or are thin it's a bit more convoluted to get a fix because you need to attach your bearers to the rear sides.

Alternatively, providing the top isn't yet fitted, 6it should be possible to fit the end panels (screwed through the sides of the cabinet unobtrusively, then bracketed to the floor). The back can then be bracketed top and bottom and at each end. Grooves can be made in the top rear stretchers of the cabinets to take the top brackets (and so that the brackets can't lift.the worktop), and the brackets are screwed to the floor, the cabinet tops and to the end panels begore fitting the top

There are all sorts of variations on this approach, but basically the decor back doesn't need to be fixed to the backs of the cabinets. The decor panels all do need to be fixed to the floor, though, and ideally to each other in the corners. Screw length in this task, as in all kitchen fitting work, are critical

 

[Jonny Vee]

Hi, I`m back to my kitchen project for a small amendment. We have decide to remove the last 600mm unit to use the room for a dishwasher.

I understand dishwasher does not need a unit but because this is the far end last unit and will need to close off with a decor panel. Does any of you have any experience on how to support stand a decor panel?

Thanks

 

[Mr Chibs]

What about angle brackets (with short screws into the panel) and secure to the floor.

 

[Jonny Vee]

What about angle brackets (with short screws into the panel) and secure to the floor.

How would you deal with the top as I guess bracket on the floor only would make it wobble and fall down. What about the internal width I`m supposed to leave between the last unit and decor panel?

 

[Mr Chibs]

How would you deal with the top as I guess bracket on the floor only would make it wobble and fall down. What about the internal width I`m supposed to leave between the last unit and decor panel?

You'd screw the top of the panel to the underside of the worktop, use two three brackets at top and bottom

 

[Mr Chibs]

If your dishwasher is the last item, it won't have a carcass, the door is applied to the appliance.
And you'll just be finishing with the deco end panel.

Or have I misunderstood?