Yes it's a 1/4in router - 1020 watts is nowhere near powerful enough to drive a large 1/2in shank cutter (and it would be potentially quite dangerous to even try it). The smallest 1/2in routers are generally about 1400 watts, but most trade routers (the sort you'd use on a kitchen worktop joint, a lock mortise or a solid wood mortise) are in the 1800 to 2300 watts rangeWell, got the thing today... stupid question I reckon, but how do I measure whether it's ¼ or ½? Is it just the hole in the chuck?
If it's been misdescribed, it's going back...
Yes I'm getting PAR, but the edges are still quite sharp - as it's a bed, I wondered if I might round them slightly...you buy planed/dressed/par/pse timber all ready finished
thats the main job for the router 3-6mm radius round over bit all exposed timbers sides/slats/ ends /legs headboardYes I'm getting PAR, but the edges are still quite sharp - as it's a bed, I wondered if I might round them slightly...
You don't need a router for that - sandpaper wrapped over itself 3 or 4 times and held in the crook of the fingers will take the arrisses off and leave a 1 to 2mm round-overYes I'm getting PAR, but the edges are still quite sharp - as it's a bed, I wondered if I might round them slightly...
Horizontal beams? Do you mean the rails perchance? The reason for using a router is to create a perfectly uniform depth mortise (difficult to achieve for many people) - if the ends of the rails are a snug fit in the mortise you only need a single bed bolt at each end of the rail because the mortise stops any tendency of the rail to twist when placed under load and the load from the rails is transmitted into the lower cheek of the mortise. Without a mortise and just a butted connection you really need two large diameter dowels and a bed bolt - the dowels transmit the loads into the legs and prevent twisting (one dowel and a bed bolt and you can still get twisting) whilst the bed bolt secures the joint. Quite simple, I thoughtMy boy broke his bed the other day, in particular one of the original horizontal beams (that was in retrospect undersized) I replaced the horizontal beams with some good sized softwood joists, I merely used a couple of coach bolts through the uprights into the ends of the joists on each side, jobs a goodun, I could have easily sunk the bolt heads and fitted a plug to hide them, seems like a lot of talk in this thread about various techniques that could be achieved with some low tech.
i dont do handraulicYou don't need a router for that - sandpaper wrapped over itself 3 or 4 times and held in the crook of the fingers will take the arrisses off and leave a 1 to 2mm round-over
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