Floor to ceiling book case

[bsr]

Do what he says. I'm just a DIYer. I'm surprised 300um is going to make a difference. I'm surprised anyone could even notice micrometer differences in wood. How accurate is a drill chuck?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Be surprised then. If the drill bit is off centre in the holder they really can wobble and break. Had the experience when I've cut corners to get a job finished because I hadn't got any of the right size drill bits with me - some of the drill countersinks I use are carbide tipped and when you snap a drill bit in one of those you run the risk of totalling one of the two carbide tips. That means you write the drill/countersink off at a cost of £10 to £15 a pop and you potentially mark the work to boot

 

[Jupiter01]

@JobAndKnock I definitely intend to follow your advice. Thought the Screwfix option may save me some time as I could have picked it up today. But, I’d rather get this right!

Can I please check that this is the device you are suggesting?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401153930757

Thanks for your support

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Yes, that's one. Fairly recently (as recently as last summer) SFX were offering a small number of the Trend ones

Edit: just had a look - they've dropped the single items but still do the full sets.

 

[Jupiter01]

@JobAndKnock I couldn’t see the length (suitable for my 4x50mm screws?) and the pilot drill size. I assume this is 2.8mm as you suggested?

A couple more questions if I may please:
1) when glueing the dowels and ends, would this be suitable?
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Gorilla-Wo...GqiXFmSQhmA0TjVfpBoCVb4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#

2) my clamps won’t go as wide as the bottom row of my bookcase. Is there a workaround to when I glue and screw these sections? Trying to avoid purchasing a new set of clamps just for these taller sections.

Thanks again

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Yes, 2.8mm is right. Screw sizes need to be something like a 4.0 x 40mm to.4.0 x 50mm. Shorter than 35mm and they lack holding power, longer than 50mm and you'll struggle to pilot them, which will potentially lead to splitting

Whilst that wood glue will do (it is a PVA glue), I think it is expensive and I don't think it confersxany advantages over cheaper brands of D3 PVA. And you will be surprised how much glue a project like this consumes.

Workarounds:

(i) use cramp heads and make your own bars to any length required

(ii) make up quick and dirty work holders
These comprise a long length of 2 x 1 PSE softwood, approximately 250 to 300mm longer than the item to be clamped. Cut two jaw pieces from the same material, approximately 150mm long each. Drills hole through the centres of these pieces to take a screw. Screw one of these jaws about 100mm in from the end of the long piece, so it looks like an elongated cross. Screw the other jaw to to other end, reasonably tightly, this time a bit further in from the end so that the distance between the jaws is.the length you need to clamp plus 3 to 5mm. If this is placed where you need to clamp and one of the jaws is tapped over with a hammer, being not quite straight, the jaws will pull the joint in and the friction in the screws will.hild it whilst the glue sets. Use multiples to achieve the desired result and if needs be add a couple of screws in the joint to help hold it during setting time. An old shopfitting trick (amongst other things) and how I've clamped together loads of cladding boxes around steel columns, etc (which often arrive as flat panels requiring final assembly in situ)

 

[Jupiter01]

Whilst that wood glue will do (it is a PVA glue), I think it is expensive and I don't think it confersxany advantages over cheaper brands of D3 PVA. And you will be surprised how much glue a project like this consumes.

Based on this advice, I will swap the Gorilla glue out for this:
Interior & Exterior PVA Wood Glue 500ml (toolstation.com)

Am I okay to wipe of any excess glue with a damp cloth? I know MDF doesn't take to moisture to well.


A question on screws please. Which one of these two should I use for my situation:
Spax Yellox PZ Countersunk Woodscrews 4 x 50mm 200 Pack | Woodscrews | Screwfix.com
Spax TX Countersunk Blue Zinc MDF Screw 4 x 50mm 200 Pack | Flooring Screws | Screwfix.com

Thanks again.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Try to minimise your glue squeeze out as far as possible. If you wipe with a damp cloth there is always a chance that you will raise the grain and smear glue into the MDF (which on turn can show through any final finish as a shiny patch), hence the first piece of advice. Others here have suggested that pre-finishing or at least priming pieces (MDF primer) before they are assembled might be a good idea and it would certainly help stop glue sinking in if there was any squeeze out. I wouldn't try using masking tape to mask the joint areas as this invariably lifts fibres out when removed, which again tends to show through the finish.

In terms of screws, if you clamp the two pieces together firmly before screwing and pilot/countersink it would be possible to.use most MDF or chipboard screws without fear of the top piece "jacking" off the lower piece when screwing together

 

[Jupiter01]

Hi Guys,
Another question on this project please. I am now reaching the half way point on this:


As a reminder, here’s the plan I am following:


Q. How am I going to slot in the top section so that it is flush with the ceiling?

Thanks in advance.

 

[lostinthelight]

Build it a tad short and fit cornice or suitable moulding ?

 

[Jupiter01]

I would really like to avoid a moulding or space if at all possible...

 

[lostinthelight]

I would really like to avoid a moulding or space if at all possible...

Jack up the legs

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I was going to use my Makita circular saw with guides clamped on the MDF to get all the straight cuts.

It will be tedious setting up and measuring with guides. A sliding saw will be much easier.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

2) my clamps won’t go as wide as the bottom row of my bookcase. Is there a workaround to when I glue and screw these sections? Trying to avoid purchasing a new set of clamps just for these taller sections.

A loop of rope around the entire thing, tightened by twisting up a bar or bit of timber in the rope loop?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Q. How am I going to slot in the top section so that it is flush with the ceiling?

You normally don't take any piece of furniture that close to the ceiling because you just can't assemble it and lift it in position, as you have discovered.

I've only seen this sort of thing done a few times in fit outs. The result you want was achieved by building-up the unit (actually, the units come in either as a single piece, or if larger as several parts which go together in situ), with the unit packed up to a defined datum, checked with a laser. The ceiling was then framed out and built up to the unit. I suspect that is how your example was achieved. Used the technique in several bars and restaurants. But this isn't really what you wanted to hear, as overboarding a ceiling probably isn't what you want to do.

I suggest you accept the compromise and build the unit maybe 50 to 60mm below ceiling and infill the gap with some MDF upstand, set 100mm back from the edge with caulked joints and painted out to match the ceiling