fluorescent what colour is best for working under?

v slightly O/T, A light which gave the strobe effect could be really useful on machines such as spindle moulders. The blades on those go so fast you can't see them, and the temptation to stick a finger in to see if they are really there is frighteningly strong, as will several 8-9 fingered carpenters I've known will confirm :( :(
Interesting, and valid, point. You could, I suppose, deliberately install some sort of 'strobe spotlight' specifically for such items of equipment.

Kind Regards, John
 
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Interesting stuff and don't want to be boring but to complete my knowledge on colour of lighting, how does it work then, would you always have daylight for working and I presume warm white in lounge areas ( I assume most people would go for something other than a fluorescent in their lounge but still be picking which white to have)?

What about in a office?

What about in a kitchen, you work there but then people often like the lighting to be cosy, so whats the rules on which whites to have where?
 
...so whats the rules on which whites to have where?
I'm sure there are 'guidelines' around as regards types of light for different types of room and different work activities etc. (have you tried Googling?), but I don't think you'll find any 'rules' (except, perhaps, in relation to commercial and work premises, probably mainly in terms of the level of lighting, rather than colour), since so much is down to personal preference. In general, I presume that most people would agree that the more blue the light is, the more 'cold' and 'harsh' it is, and the more red it is, the 'warmer' and 'more cosy' it is. However, which you like where, and find easiest for you in terms of activities, I fear is going to be down to you. You might even find some places (again, try Googling) where you can go and 'experience' the various different versions of 'white light'.

Kind Regards, John
 
I find in kitchens it very much depends on the work surface, with darker tops a cooler coloured light can sometimes look better, but its personal preference
With white surfaces it can look a bit harsh to have a cool light
 
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840 is 'warm white'

840 is coolwhite

I guess there has to be some reason (that has so far escaped me!) for having these codes, rather than just using colour temperature, but the codes appear to be the colour temperature (K) divided by 100, then plus 800:

The first prefix "8" relates to the gas as in triphosphor
"6 is usually Halophosphor or the older gas though some makers use "5"
"9" is multi phosphor
The rest is usually just the first 2 numbers with the "00 left off
27 = 2700 warm
35 = 3500 white
40 =-4000 cool
65 = 6500 daylight

giving you

640 for a cheap halophosphor cool white lamp
840 for a dearer longer lasting cool white triphosphor lamp
940 or 942 usually a dearer gas filled cool white metal halide lamp
 
I guess there has to be some reason (that has so far escaped me!) for having these codes, rather than just using colour temperature, but the codes appear to be the colour temperature (K) divided by 100, then plus 800:
The first prefix "8" relates to the gas as in ... The rest is usually just the first 2 numbers with the "00 left off ....
Many thanks for explaining.

Kind Regards, John
 
Not sure how correct this is ... apparently the 5, 8 and 9 prefix is marks out of 10 http://www.david-rose-lighting.co.uk/fluorescent.htm[/QUOTE]
According to Mr Wikipedia:
Philips and Osram use numeric color codes for the colors. On tri-phosphor and multi-phosphor tubes, the first digit indicates the color rendering index (CRI) of the lamp. If the first digit on a lamp says 8, then the CRI of that lamp will be approximately 85.

Kind Regards, John
 

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