Genius required aspa re: Pulsacoil 2000 ongoing problem.

[Breesey]

right had a look, I would probably chance telling him to bring one with him its a knocking bet that its the controller

Matt

So, the economy 7 controller should work properly (ie heat the water up when the light comes on) without an economy 7 meter?

Yes

 

[Breesey]

right had a look, I would probably chance telling him to bring one with him its a knocking bet that its the controller

Matt

I would cancel him and order one yourself (from Wilkes for example). The new one will fit directly on to the old wire box (no wiring required it 'plugs in') again assuming that we know the lower immersion element is serviceable.

Cancel the electrician? What type do I buy?

Horstman Electronic 7

 

[Breesey]

When the off peak is on, there is no sound at all.

You have tested this by advancing the clock to an 'on' time, yes?

 

[andrew197]

right had a look, I would probably chance telling him to bring one with him its a knocking bet that its the controller

Matt

I would cancel him and order one yourself (from Wilkes for example). The new one will fit directly on to the old wire box (no wiring required it 'plugs in') again assuming that we know the lower immersion element is serviceable.

Cancel the electrician? What type do I buy?

Horstman Electronic 7

So I should cancel the electrician and buy the Electronic 7 controller and whack that on?

When it is said it just plugs in, I am a ****** when it comes to DIY! How can I prevent electrocuting and killing myself? I want to enjoy a hot shower after all this..

 

[matt1e]

Indeed, in my experience it will be the controller. assuming the immersion element is serviceable.

Hi Breesey, don't deal much with stuff like this these days as more commercial/industrial now but I cant imaging the internal relays lasting long especially if you are using them in timed mode

The new one will fit directly on to the old wire box (no wiring required it 'plugs in')

do you not get much trouble with the backplate connections burning out?

Matt

 

[andrew197]

When the off peak is on, there is no sound at all.

You have tested this by advancing the clock to an 'on' time, yes?

Yes, I turn the clock manually and the light clicks on. No sound like the kettling that happens when the boost is on.

 

[Breesey]

When it is said it just plugs in, I am a ****** when it comes to DIY! How can I prevent electrocuting and killing myself? I want to enjoy a hot shower after all this..

There should be a fused spur switch just before the controller unit. Switch it off and confirm by switching on boost...

There are 2 screws on the front of the controller. Remove these and the front will lift off. It connects to the 'live' side of the box via a connector similar to that found on some car boot lids where pins reconnect the rear lights when the boot lid is closed.

Push the new one in, replace screws, switch spur back on.

 

[matt1e]

Ah just looked at the schematic, no relays
the problem is ether the time switch contact is not making or the mating terminal 5 is burnt out I reckon

 

[Breesey]

Indeed, in my experience it will be the controller. assuming the immersion element is serviceable.

Hi Breesey, don't deal much with stuff like this these days as more commercial/industrial now but I cant imaging the internal relays lasting long especially if you are using them in timed mode

The new one will fit directly on to the old wire box (no wiring required it 'plugs in')

do you not get much trouble with the backplate connections burning out?

Matt

The relays are quite robust. I've not come across knackered ones in this context.

Not seen burnt back plate connections either. Unlikely I would have thought bearing in mind the way they fit.

 

[andrew197]

When it is said it just plugs in, I am a ****** when it comes to DIY! How can I prevent electrocuting and killing myself? I want to enjoy a hot shower after all this..

There should be a fused spur switch just before the controller unit. Switch it off and confirm by switching on boost...

There are 2 screws on the front of the controller. Remove these and the front will lift off. It connects to the 'live' side of the box via a connector similar to that found on some car boot lids where pins reconnect the rear lights when the boot lid is closed.

Push the new one in, replace screws, switch spur back on.

Does the spur switch look like a light switch?

 

[andrew197]

Ah just looked at the schematic, no relays
the problem is ether the time switch contact is not making or the mating terminal 5 is burnt out I reckon

Will either of these be fixed by a new controller?

 

[Breesey]

Ah just looked at the schematic, no relays
the problem is ether the time switch contact is not making or the mating terminal 5 is burnt out I reckon

Yes, still had the Pulsacoil lll that I looked at recently in mind.
Either way the controller should be changed.

 

[matt1e]

Ah just looked at the schematic, no relays
the problem is ether the time switch contact is not making or the mating terminal 5 is burnt out I reckon

Will either of these be fixed by a new controller?

yes, stop worrying, if the element is indeed ok then it is more than likely the controller
the only other thing it could be is the internal relay in the pulsacoil but as said the pulsacoils input terminals would/should have been metered anyway
Put it this way your current problem definitely definitely definitely is one of two problems
1) the controller
2) the pulsacoil

you have already paid for item number 2 to be checked and ok'd by experts, so I would say you would have recourse if it turns out faulty after all
believe me mate it is one or the other, and its probably me talking about relays etc thats confusing you so sorry

Matt

 

[andrew197]

Ok, thanks a lot for your help, everyone.

 

[matt1e]

Ok, thanks a lot for your help, everyone.

I will just shamelessly point this out for you then ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------