Glow worm 30cxi dead

[vicvapour]

Ha you watch, the OP will turn around and say it was the PCB

To be fair that's unlikely, we'll probably not hear back.

haha, imagine that, you're probalbly right mate, a lot of them when they get the problem sorted, never let us know.

 

[bell824]

i could probably put my house on the line as to vicavapoupish being wrong here,

and as micky is an ex glowworm engineer here and i am a current it is very rare for the main bord to be faulty,

oh and by the way it is past monday and the op has not poted back!!!!

i would bet surprise surprise some g/w engineer has picked this job up on a fixed priced repair and also found it was not the board.

vica if you are a RGI get youreslf to the cc and take correct advice!! unless of course you are another troll!!

 

[leeshelley1983]

This thread has just saved me 250 pound. Had no display on my glow worm 24ci boiler. Had voltage at the pcb and communications board. Stripped it off cleaned all the contacts but still no joy. Was gonna change the pcb. Found this thread so tried unplugging the water pressure sensor and the display came back to life with an f9 fault code. Replaced the sensor for 42 pound and my boiler came back to life. Thanks for your post Agincourt1415.

 

[davefj]

I just had a similar problem with my (10 yr old) 30cxi:

1. Came back after holiday and found boiler flashing with low pressure.
2. Topped up pressure and it started cycling on and off (with demand).
3. Turned off (paused) and back on again - got a F13 error
4. checked all the connections to the pcb and still no joy - even checked a few bits with multimeter.
5. While checking/disconnecting different connections to the pcb I then managed to end up without the display showing a pressure and thought I had bricked the pcb somehow.

Then I found this post

1- check boiler is correct wired . p/live, s/live and neutral
2- check all pcb molex plug connections, that are located and fitted correct (work loose)
3- check display molex j13 is fitted right way around
4- disconnect j4 plug if this brings back display , replace fan.
5- cxi/sxi/si/ci range. disconect water pressure sensor if the display then shows f9 then goes blank when reconnected replace sensor

hope this helps

so I disconnected the pressure sensor and I got flashing display and flashing green light!

• then I turned off and on again and got F13 and F9.
• Removed and cleaned the pressure sensor (not much crud after 10 yr and no servicing - very soft water here) replaced and still got the blank screen.
• Went and bought a new sensor (35+vat at well known plumbers merchant) fitted and refilled
• Turned back on and still had no display so disconnected and reconnected pressure sensor and display slowly came back...
• Re-pressurised to 0.9 bar and it's all working

Thanks Agincourt1415 and everyone else!

 

[ftimes]

its not always pcb, first post should be followed first, could be fan, lwps, display, display to pcb harness or pcb. bit of investigation required to prevent egg on face.

OK, I have a dead display on this 30HXi . There has been a roof water leak and the PCB had been displaying F1 (no gas), plumber claimed faulty PCB. After some more roof rain, I turned boiler on and I heard a quiet pop- since then the display has been dead.
Any suggestions please? (apart from fix my roof)

 

[J. Haywood]

I have a Glow Worm 30CXi and it was dead when be bought the house. We were quoted £300 to replace the printed circuit board.
Being an electronic engineer, I wasn't about to pay that without looking at it first, so this is what I found:

Symptom - Dead, no display and a faint ticking sound when the power is turned on or takes a long time to power up from cold. Fuse F100 is intact.

The switch mode power supply (adjacent to the fuse) is not starting up. This is caused by a faulty electrolytic capacitor C805 situated at the bottom of the PCB near to the fuse. This is a 47uF @ 50v. Be sure to obtain a 105 degree type, not a cheaper 85 degree as this will provide a much longer service life.

A suitable type is available from RS components (www.rswww.com) part number 520-1567 priced £1.50 for a pack of 5!

It may also be worth replacing C813 100uf @ 25v on the power supply secondary at the same time. This is situated at the bottom of the PCB to the left of the small transformer.

A suitable type is 519-4150 from RS priced at £1.00 per pack of 5.

Remember to isolate the boiler mains supply before touching the PCB as it is very, very live!!!

Hopefully this will save people some money :0)

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[oph]

Hi guys

I am at a 30cxi 47-047-24

It has no display or control light and is completely dead.

But I have correct power to on/off switch, then on to the PCB at H8, the on board 630 mAT fuse is good with power to most parts of the board when i put my wand on it, the switch live is powered to the controls interface with power at H7, and it seems there is no power going to the user interface which has the display which is dead,

I am thinking of getting the main PCB, but worried its a problem with something else like the controls interface or the user interface, I don't want to look a right plank in front of the custard by ordering the wrong part, so any help would be great as the MI's fault section is no help.

cheers

You in Eastbourne by chance?

Ah, ffs , this is donks old.

Stop bringing up old posts. You'll be raising the dead next...........

 

[dave001]

Hey, hoping someone can help, I'm very new to gas boiler repairs and still trying to learn the ropes.
I have a glow worm 30cxi that I was called to today, no power/display and nothing at all happening when switched on/off.
I carried out all the tests as detailed above and came to the conclusion main PCB, replaced Main PCB, now I can hear the integral timer ticking (which could not be heard before) and when switching boiler on the fan runs for a split second then everything stops, with still no display, any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm thinking perhaps the user interface pcb or harness could be at fault but I'm worried about getting it wrong and rising costs for the customer.
Thanks in advance for any info.

 

[Agile]

I do hope you are not planning to charge the owner for a new PCB if it was not required to fix the fault.

 

[dave001]

Hi Agile, thanks for the reply, I would only charge the customer for any part that is necessary to actually fix the problem, however as stated in my post, there was no life in the boiler whatsoever, after changing the main PCB I now have power to the integral timer and also the fan will start all be it only for a split second, this was not happening before the board was changed, can you offer any advice?

 

[muggles]

Yes - sign up to the Combustion Chamber with your Gas Safe number and ask the question in there as we're limited on what advice we can give on the DIY side of the forum

 

[dave001]

Thanks Muggles, I will do that this evening, I was trying to do this last night but I read a lot of the threads saying a very long delay in getting into forum after giving details, however maybe this is an old problem
Thanks
Again

 

[Agile]

Usually takes a day or two.

But you have to just keep checking to see when you have access. Don't expect to be told!

Tony

 

[ollski]

On the old chi there was a little bridge piece to fit up by the ignition, did you check that?
Btw if you're fairly new make sure you check the burner seal and for water stains on the back panel....don't want to teach you to suck eggs.

 

[AGAS]

if you're fairly new make sure you check the burner seal and for water stains on the back panel....don't want to teach you to suck eggs.

that wouldn't cause his problems but if he has i would fit a carbon monoxide alarm