Here's a picture for anyone interested.
(Hope the hot link isn't against site rules)
It's from this page which explains how induction hobs may be designed.
.
Which, in case anyone was wondering - is an active power supply.
Help identify this two pin plug ?
- Thread starter newhobgirl
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Which, in case anyone was wondering - is an active power supply.
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Yeah. I also should correct my statement based on skim reading.
Although the current drawn is what is being controlled, it is current drawn from a constant voltage from the switched mode supply. So in fact the mains current would go down for increased mains voltage in this particular circuit.
What's inside a real (and cheap) product is anyone's guess.
Although the current drawn is what is being controlled, it is current drawn from a constant voltage from the switched mode supply. So in fact the mains current would go down for increased mains voltage in this particular circuit.
What's inside a real (and cheap) product is anyone's guess.
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It'll still be constant output power, just the components and build quality will be ****e
I would insist on sending it back to him by a recorded delivery and claim the refund under his warranty.
- why should you send it to someone on his behalf knowing they will then be in the same position you are in but who may not think of asking any more questions . . .
If they dont like it they will send it back to you !!
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Get pragmatic and don't be so pernickity. Cut the non-standard plug off, use a 13A plug and you'll be OK even though the nominal current is over 13A.
No-one takes account of the fact that a 100W filiament lamp takes over a kW when turned on, for a few millisecs whilst it heats up. No one takes account of the 25A transient that a 1HP induction motor takes on starting up DOL. It's a question of the duration of the so-called overload. It's not an overload if it's a short transient.
For the electricity supplies to your house, the DNO will expect your maximum demand to increase the typical substation load by 1.5kW. Even though your cutout fuse will allow 23kW. That's because the DNO averages the demand over half an hour. It discounts demands that last for less than 30 minutes.
Of course, the thermal characteristics of house wiring do not allow for a 30 minute demand integration period. It's less. But it's also more than the motor start transient.
Anyone who has used an induction hob in a domestic environment will know that you would not leave it working at full power for more than a few minutes. It gets power into water in a pan much faster than gas and it will be boiling in a few minutes. If you cook, you'll know that, on an induction hob, you'll hardly ever have both plates on full for more than a couple of minutes, if that. There is substantial diversity.
Notwithstanding all that, the 13A is a nominal, not a maximum rating. If the voltage of supply increases to the maximum permitted, 253V, a 2990W load taking 13A at 230V will take 3620W, nearly 16A.
I do practice what I'm advocating. My 2-plate induction hob, 3600W, runs off a FCU fused at 13A.
No-one takes account of the fact that a 100W filiament lamp takes over a kW when turned on, for a few millisecs whilst it heats up. No one takes account of the 25A transient that a 1HP induction motor takes on starting up DOL. It's a question of the duration of the so-called overload. It's not an overload if it's a short transient.
For the electricity supplies to your house, the DNO will expect your maximum demand to increase the typical substation load by 1.5kW. Even though your cutout fuse will allow 23kW. That's because the DNO averages the demand over half an hour. It discounts demands that last for less than 30 minutes.
Of course, the thermal characteristics of house wiring do not allow for a 30 minute demand integration period. It's less. But it's also more than the motor start transient.
Anyone who has used an induction hob in a domestic environment will know that you would not leave it working at full power for more than a few minutes. It gets power into water in a pan much faster than gas and it will be boiling in a few minutes. If you cook, you'll know that, on an induction hob, you'll hardly ever have both plates on full for more than a couple of minutes, if that. There is substantial diversity.
Notwithstanding all that, the 13A is a nominal, not a maximum rating. If the voltage of supply increases to the maximum permitted, 253V, a 2990W load taking 13A at 230V will take 3620W, nearly 16A.
I do practice what I'm advocating. My 2-plate induction hob, 3600W, runs off a FCU fused at 13A.
But the point is, this appliance is being sold as suitable for connection to a socket without any fusing down from the 32A MCB at the consumer unit, and even if you did fit a BS1362 plug top, it is still a non copliant installation.
Will it work? Probably
Is it safe? Maybe
Is it compliant? No
Is it a well designed installation? Not by any stretch of the imagination
Just to add, this was done by an appliance not rated at over 13A. It was a washer, so would not be a particaually sustained load either.
Will it work? Probably
Is it safe? Maybe
Is it compliant? No
Is it a well designed installation? Not by any stretch of the imagination
Just to add, this was done by an appliance not rated at over 13A. It was a washer, so would not be a particaually sustained load either.
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