Help please with appliance and ext lead

[Deleted member 267285]

Ok, I’m slightly confused now, just had a look at the specifications on dryer, and it’s stating a current of 16A, but only 2700 watts?

https://sharphomeappliances.com/uk-uk/KD-GCB8S7GW9-EN

 

[BS3036]

Well, they made a mistake. One of those figures is wrong. The only real way to find out is to measure it, perhaps using one of those plug in power meters. Probably no point asking anyone as they would just look in the same place.

 

[JohnW2]

Ok, I’m slightly confused now, just had a look at the specifications on dryer, and it’s stating a current of 16A, but only 2700 watts? .... https://sharphomeappliances.com/uk-uk/KD-GCB8S7GW9-EN

It does, and that's clearly wrong.

I can but presume that it is designed for the European market, which generally has 16A circuits/sockets, and the "Electrical Current (A)" refers to the fact that it should be connected to such a circuit. ... and around 2,700 W is roughly what one would expect of such an appliance.

However, it's clearly misleading - so, if I were you, I'd probably be inclined to take it up with them (and get their clarification/confirmation).

Kind Regards, John

 

[JohnD]

Ok, I’m slightly confused now, just had a look at the specifications on dryer, and it’s stating a current of 16A, but only 2700 watts?

https://sharphomeappliances.com/uk-uk/KD-GCB8S7GW9-EN

I'll wager 10p that the technical author, or possibly the translator, was given information that (in much of Europe) it should be connected to a 16A circuit, and wrote a spec based on a misunderstanding.

edit
too slow!

The document says

• Electrical Current (A)
  
  16

which is badly worded and ambiguous.

edit 2

the document also says

Delay Timer
Program your dishwasher so that it starts at a time that suits you.

indicating (since this is a tumble dryer, not a dishwasher) shoddy composition and review.

 

[Deleted member 267285]

I can but presume that it is designed for the European market, which generally has 16A circuits/sockets, and the "Electrical Current (A)" refers to the fact that it should be connected to such a circuit. ... and around 2,700 W is roughly what one would expect of such an appliance.

Kind Regards, John

Perhaps yes, as the fuse supplied in the plug top is 13A. Might look on the data label when I get home.

edited: if it was 16A, surely it would have tripped out or at least blown fuse each time?

 

[Deleted member 267285]

The only real way to find out is to measure it, perhaps using one of those plug in power meters.

Would a clamp meter measure it correctly?

 

[BS3036]

As long as you clamp it round the live only (or line to satisfy the pedants).

 

[Deleted member 267285]

As long as you clamp it round the live only (or line to satisfy the pedants).

Not going to be possible as it’s flex cable.

 

[BS3036]

You could wire up a plug to a socket and use separate wires in between. Just for the measurement.

 

[JohnW2]

edited: if it was 16A, surely it would have tripped out or at least blown fuse each time?

I'm as sure as I can be that it won't be using 16A, but ...

... it takes something like 22A flowing continuously to blow a 13A fuse - so the short answer is 'no'!

Kind Regards, John

 

[Colin Brenton]

You could wire up a plug to a socket and use separate wires in between. Just for the measurement.

You could do that, but easier is to put the clamp meter around the meter tail, note the reading, then start the dryer up. Then note how much the clamp meter read out has increased by.

No need to make up any temporary leads etc that way.

 

[BS3036]

You could do that, but easier is to put the clamp meter around the meter tail, note the reading, then start the dryer up. Then note how much the clamp meter read out has increased by.

No need to make up any temporary leads etc that way.

This wouldn't work in our house as the reading would change while walking between the consumer unit and the dryer. It might work if they were co-located or you didn't have any other loads switched on.

 

[JohnW2]

This wouldn't work in our house as the reading would change while walking between the consumer unit and the dryer. It might work if they were co-located or you didn't have any other loads switched on.

I would have thought that it would be unlikley that any other loads would change in the few seconds that walk took to get from dryer to CU to appreciably affect the change due to the dryer coming on - although one obviously should not do such a test when any other large (and potentially varying) loads like cookers, WMs or even immersions were 'on'.

In any event, if there were such a problem, it could be solved by having two people involved in the test!

Kind Regards, John

 

[BS3036]

It seems you can always count on some people to pick a pointless argument. I suppose you are assuming that people have forgotten how to wire a plug. We're talking about someone who has a clamp meter but no plug to socket jig.

 

[JohnW2]

It seems you can always count on some people to pick a pointless argument. I suppose you are assuming that people have forgotten how to wire a plug.

I'm not assuming anything, and it wasn't me who introduced this idea about a clamp meter (although I did suggest that the measurement {by any method} is totally unnecessary, anyway).

However, if (for whatever reason) one wants to do the measurement, has a clamp meter and has a friend to help, one can achieve that without having to make any assumptions about anyone's ability to wire a plug.

Kind Regards, John