Henry motor

[SUNRAY]

If the OP's motor is like what's in this video, both bearings should be accessible. I think there's only a nut at the metal impeller end holding the shaft in place.

Thats a different design to mine, I'm beginning to wonder if it was the original AquaVac I had.

 

[DiyNutJob]

Have you cleaned between the copper segments with a pin?

I bath my motors, excluding the bearings, with washing up liquid and water. I don't care what anyone says.

 

[SUNRAY]

I bath my motors, excluding the bearings, with washing up liquid and water. I don't care what anyone says.

As long as it is thoroughly dried is shouldn't be a problem, I recently did the same thing with some LED stage lights in the kitchen sink. Mrs Sunray went berrrrserrrrk.

When the commutator is reshaped copper filings are created and these accumulate in the gaps, when the motor is run there is likely to be some arcing and will affect the performance and potentially overheat/damage the brushes. Washing is unlikely to clean it out.

Additionally the insulation should be undercut (not level with the surface of the copper) the pin will help towards this too.

 

[DiyNutJob]

As long as it is thoroughly dried is shouldn't be a problem, I recently did the same thing with some LED stage lights in the kitchen sink. Mrs Sunray went berrrrserrrrk.

Let's hope you have no designs on her dishwasher.

 

[Wayners]

Re fixing motors and vacs.

I'm currently fixing 3 miele vacuums bought off ebay cheap. 2 done.
One I attempted to replaced bearings but that failed. Welded on. Ended up buying a near new motor from kenco spares in Ireland for that. Runs well.
Other current project is an old miele 2200w s8 which looks like it's had water through motor so cleaned up, and soldered the thermal cutout back in place but that that ain't running. Got a second hand motor off ebay on its way for £40.
Have another 2 identical miele s512 1800w double motor fans I bought for £15 each (not working) and moved parts about and replaced bearings on the one motor and that's spot on. Its like new. That motor was so easy to swap bearings, so some are easier than others.
Seems nearly all the vacuum brands use 608zz bearings which are used in so many things from skate boards to fidget spinners.
My advice is leave bearings and pop off rubber seal if they have one and can be removed. Some can't. Then use contact cleaner and grease vs swapping and if no good only then try and remove bearings.
On the failed attempt to remove bearings I used a puller and blow torch then fitted new ones but took too much effort and caused damage.

Henry is same. You need to be sure the bearing in worn before replacing. I've learnt that thermal cutouts can blow and need soldering back on or new one fitted as a common cause of motor fails.
Popping sound from motors have had it. Can't be fixed. Winding is knackered.
Cheap enough to buy new or second hand motors though.

While i got your attention....
Never use paper bags in any vacuum. They don't filter enough causing damage to motor plus throwing dust in the air so a real lung killer. Some shop vac fitters are useless with the poor filters!
Wrap a hepa bag around canister filter is easy cheap fix to upgrade vacuum but the noise of shop vacs it too great for domestic work imo, unless you invest in festool or other quality brand.
I like my festool but the smaller 6 speed mieie vacs or two speed henry is the way to go.
As for miele the bags are 9 layers hepa so filtering is amazing.
Only use genuine hepa bags in miele vacs or any vacuum assuming it's good quality.
Hepa Henry bags are great quality but the knockoffs and paper bags are junk. Don't use!

Also you can use empty mastic tubes to join pipes on vacuum cleaners which I do. Turning 1.8m into 3.6m and I also have a 6+m henry pipe now. Ha.
Very useful

I'm looking for a 2 speed henry now. Mrs will go mad when that turns up. Ha.. I've thrown out a few over the years not realising they could be fixed. Recon the burst paper bags caused them to die. My mistake

 

[DiyNutJob]

For reselling, getting the bearing back to a passable condition is OK. For own use, getting a better quality bearing will save on the hassle of frequent maintenance. Bearings do wear, and this translates into louder noise. If the OEM bearing is an unknown brand and getting noisy, then replacing them is a better option. FAG and SKF are pretty good. Japanese ones might be good too but I have no experience. The chinese ones direct from china are more of a lucky dip, and no way to tell before buying how they will work out.

Recently, I fixed a cooker hood extractor motor. It didn't have ball bearings. It had sleeve bearings. Just a drop of oil was good enough for those.

 

[bsr]

The Henry uses NMB 608D caged bearings so seemingly a good quality. The motor is by Lamb who I think are also a good make so it seems to be made to last.

 

[Wayners]

Dunlop bearings are good

 

[plugwash]

If it can be put together, then it can be taken apart.

I can't speak for motors specifically, but it's not true that stuff in general can be dismantled non-destructively. For a simple example consider the humble rivet, to remove it you would have to drill or grind it out, then you would have to find a suitable replacement rivet.

Or worse consider a pin hammered into a bind hole, good luck getting that out non-destructively.

And then there are glues.

 

[JohnD]

Never use paper bags in any vacuum. They don't filter enough causing damage to motor plus throwing dust in the air so a real lung killer.

In the Aquavac, I sometimes use the paper bags as well as the cartridge filter, to delay clogging the cartridge e.g. with wood or plaster dust. I got a pack of multilayer white paper bags from Germany which are better than the old brown paper ones which I still have some of for rough work.

All the other vacs have white synthetic bags now, plus a motor filter plus an exhaust filter, and stay very clean unless there is a tear. I buy them in sheets and cut to size.

 

[DiyNutJob]

I can't speak for motors specifically, but it's not true that stuff in general can be dismantled non-destructively. For a simple example consider the humble rivet, to remove it you would have to drill or grind it out, then you would have to find a suitable replacement rivet.

All the domestic motors I looked at so far are fixable.

To fix rivets, all you need are aliexpress, ebay, or amazon. One of them should have the right size replacements. I am looking at a fridge right now. The rivets looks do-able, but the radiator piping looks perma-fixed in place. No way to play with it without killing those fragile pipes. So, I won't play with it.

Or worse consider a pin hammered into a bind hole, good luck getting that out non-destructively.

Have'n't come across one of these yet.

And then there are glues.

Fixed some drawers recently detaching and reattaching the laminate. I used more, and probably better - says epoxy, glue than the original manufacturer. My fix is likely to last a lifetime compared to the 10 years the manufacturer managed.

Lot's of things are fixable if you try. It all depends on if you find it interesting. Anything I have, I like, or I would have thrown it out already. So I want to keep everything I have going indefinitely. Sometimes, it may not be possible. My 18 year old car in superb condition is being recalled again. I disregarded the last and unrelated recall some years ago, but this time I'll let them have at it. I believe they recall it for destruction. Good chance the car is a goner sometime after I get it back. But the fuel price is such that the loss may not be as painful.

 

[SUNRAY]

I can't speak for motors specifically, but it's not true that stuff in general can be dismantled non-destructively. For a simple example consider the humble rivet, to remove it you would have to drill or grind it out, then you would have to find a suitable replacement rivet.

Or worse consider a pin hammered into a bind hole, good luck getting that out non-destructively.

And then there are glues.

Many plastic products are welded, think of things like wallwarts & batterypacks to name just 2 of the items in front of me on the desk.

 

[conny]

As long as it is thoroughly dried is shouldn't be a problem, I recently did the same thing with some LED stage lights in the kitchen sink. Mrs Sunray went berrrrserrrrk.

When the commutator is reshaped copper filings are created and these accumulate in the gaps, when the motor is run there is likely to be some arcing and will affect the performance and potentially overheat/damage the brushes. Washing is unlikely to clean it out.

Additionally the insulation should be undercut (not level with the surface of the copper) the pin will help towards this too.

Correct. But instead of a pin we would use a cut-off hacksaw blade which we would run across a grinder to remove the slight kerf on the teeth. GENTLY 'saw' into between the segs until the mica begins to look clean, not forgetting to shave it off the sides of the segs, and take off the minimum amount required to clean away the old carbon deposits. You don't want to go deep as this can destabilise the commutator.

 

[SUNRAY]

Correct. But instead of a pin we would use a cut-off hacksaw blade which we would run across a grinder to remove the slight kerf on the teeth. GENTLY 'saw' into between the segs until the mica begins to look clean, not forgetting to shave it off the sides of the segs, and take off the minimum amount required to clean away the old carbon deposits. You don't want to go deep as this can destabilise the commutator.

On larger commutators I'd have made the same recommendation, I'm assuming this is something like a drill motor and suggessted the pin to reduce the likelyhood of damage.
At work we had a selection of purpose designed tools in different thicknesses which were basically as you describe - saw blades with about 6-10 teeth but without a set.

 

[conny]

This is what I am referring to. Found this in my shed. Thought I had lost it years ago.