Hitachi M12VE

[big-all]

my thoughts on slots

the man is new to routing so individual slots allow for more inaccuracies in pockets lining up as every sideways movement you have the reduced base contact when going in and out can allow more for accidental tipping
where as a slot only has a problem at each end

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Yes, B-A, but it isn't much effort to make three short slots in each end, surely? Even using a biscuit jointer you still have an amount of "wiggle room" in the slots to aid in alignment. TBH it's less of an issue with hardwood tops - whereas on chipboard ones you really would be weakening the tops - so I generally go for what I consider "best practice". And in any case I did say personal bias

 

[big-all]

yes yes we all have personal preference

 

[artylarry]

Ok guys, I have little to compare to but here are my thoughts initially on m12. After spending most of sunday cleaning out my shed/ workshop I finally found time and space to unleash the beast, after fitting an edging bit with no real problems other than worrying about overtightening it I donned my glasses, clamped a bit of 2x4 and turned her on.
A little nervous and a lot excited at this point, my first thought was blimey how smooth and quiet it seemed. Albeit at slow speed. Even the cat did not seem to bothered.

So I put her to the test on the 2x4. I was a little worried for a sec as the bit stopped turning, chewed up the wood and didn't feel good. So after (unplugging) and tightening up the bit and adjusting the depth i tried again. This time with little more speed and achieved a fairly smooth straight cut all round sides.
😆😁😀 Happy man, (supposed to be beer here?) J&K this ones for you, and im away.
I then worked through my 4 bits so far. I tried a miter cut from my rouge jig, up and down both sides. I then used biscuit cutter to join these two together. this is tricky since i haven't worked out an efficient way of measuring and cutting the right width, but with a little help im sure that will come👍😊

I then used my drainage jig and core box cutter (all these are 1/2'') to test on some pine board. First cut smooth but shallow, 2nd too deep, need more practice but happy that they are smoth and true, finally I used 60mm straight flute to cut straight edge simulating the worktop square cut. I cut the end, about 6-8MM off. Achieved a beautifull straight cut with no burning or roughness.

All in all I love it, and cant wait to get some more bits to practice. (To buy cheap set to practice or not?)

My only frustration now is that I cannot find a mounting plate that says it is compatible? I will be building a table soon, but despite the many different designs and guides I really dont know what is essential to include, particuly for my model. I am thinking, table, hole in and something to screw it onto, then guide rail.
I would love any feedback guys on this. I will eventually attempt to make new cuboard doors for kitchen on it.

first pic is first cut, disaster but quickly improved. 😄

👍
K

Untitled

• artylarry
• 16 Feb 2015
• 1

Untitled

• artylarry
• 16 Feb 2015
• 1

Untitled

• artylarry
• 16 Feb 2015
• 1

Untitled

• artylarry
• 16 Feb 2015
• 1

 

[artylarry]

http://sawdustalley.co.uk/How-to/router-table/index.php
This looks like a great starting place if I can find a mount.
If I have an offcut from oak worktop would this be flat enough? Or would using slab of old laminate chip top be better?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Nice when a plan comes together!

In terms of building a router table, a basic one is simply a 4-sided box made out of something like Contiboard (screwed together with carcass screws) with a hole in the middle of the top for the cutter. The sides are open, but a bit of bracing top and bottom (such as some 2 x 1in softwood battens) is advisable. To fix your router inside you can just drill the top of the router table at the same centres as the holes on the router base (there are normally a few) and screw together with machine screws (at least that works with my DWs). The fence can be very simple - a piece of 2 x 1-1/2in or 2 x 2in planed softwood fixed at one side of the router table top with a coach bolt. That allows it to swing to control the width of cut - once correctly set a screw can be used to hold the other end, or a G-cramp, for that matter (if you watch the orientation of the fence to the openings). If I get the time I'll dig out some illustrations later

Three things I'd recommend: that you get yourself a collet extender (preferably one that uses good quality ER-20 collets), that you rig-up some form of isolator switch (even a light switch plate on a surface mount box is better than nowt - an NVR switch is far safer) and that you leave enough space in the box to fit one of those famous CarJak brand router lifts (i.e. you rig-up a scissor jack between the bottom of your box an the top of the inverted router to give you some form of easy height adjustment). Just remember which way is the correct one for feeding onto a router table, i.e. right to left when viewed from the top