Hot water spluttering since installing Flange

Release a nut on the shower pump outlet, and see if there's air sitting in the top there.
 
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Release a nut on the shower pump outlet, and see if there's air sitting in the top there.

I would BUT it's not connected up yet to any pipes! it's sat there waiting to be hooked up (once I've run the feed from the cold tank in)

I am sort of hoping once I connect the pump up fully etc it will go away although I think I'll be sadly mistaken.
 
If air has got into the system, it could be sitting up at the top of the Warix valve in the neck, but can't get out of the lower pipe. Hell, at this stage, loosening it off is worth a try.
 
If air has got into the system, it could be sitting up at the top of the Warix valve in the neck, but can't get out of the lower pipe. Hell, at this stage, loosening it off is worth a try.

If I was to loosen, well take off the stop end would that do the job do you think? just getting desperate here!

I'll bump this again when I get chance to have a 'mess' with it, off to bed now - thanks for the suggestions by the way.
 
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I'd loosen a nut at the highest point; if you take the stop end off, you risk water going everywhere.
 
I

I'll bump this again when I get chance to have a 'mess' with it, off to bed now - thanks for the suggestions by the way.
Hope it didn't give you a sleepless night ;) The hot feed that goes from the cylinder through the ceiling - to vent over the cold water cistern ...... where does the hot water T off in relation to the bottom of the CWC - distance below it ?
 
what a mess

That dont help much but thanks anyway!

Hope it didn't give you a sleepless night ;) The hot feed that goes from the cylinder through the ceiling - to vent over the cold water cistern ...... where does the hot water T off in relation to the bottom of the CWC - distance below it ?

Slept well thanks! Checked it this morning and its worse at the bath mixer taps, other taps are not too bad to be honest.

Im currently at work so will have another look when I get chance.

If I was to swap the hot and cold deed on my washing machine would that clear the airlock? Pressure from cold is perfect.
 
Have you run the taps at full output for a few minutes? Potentially you just have some air sitting in a dead leg of pipework, but the air has to be getting in somehow if it's not just trapped.

What's with all the PTFE on the compression fittings??
 
Have you run the taps at full output for a few minutes? Potentially you just have some air sitting in a dead leg of pipework, but the air has to be getting in somehow if it's not just trapped.

What's with all the PTFE on the compression fittings??

Mrs ran a bath so yeah been on for a minute or two as for the PTFE I had a small drip from them so I re did them and decided to add a little PTFE to make sure, no issues now touch wood.
 
Air is forced out of the cold water when it is heated and rise to the top of the cylinder as bubbles, that'll be where the air is coming from, hence the need for a flange. The air is separated by the flange and stops the bubbles getting into the the pump feed and causing cavitation.

Is the feed to the taps above the level of the top of the cylinder? Usually the air would find the easiest path and travel straight up the vent and with the HW feeds tee'ing off that vertical pipe then air wouldn't usually be drawn in. Have you altered any of the hot feed pipework, away from that pic?

P.s. never use PTFE tape on the threads of compression fittings, it can actually create leaks as the fitting can't tighten enough, only use tape directly on the olives (where the water seal is formed) if needed.
 
I thought the outlet pipe from the top of hw cylinder was supposed to be a straight piece of pipe with a slight rise in it to aid the dispersal of any trapped air? Then a tee to vent above and hot water downwards?

Would be interesting to see how it's piped in loft where the dogleg hw outlet goes through ceiling.
 
Air is forced out of the cold water when it is heated and rise to the top of the cylinder as bubbles, that'll be where the air is coming from, hence the need for a flange. The air is separated by the flange and stops the bubbles getting into the the pump feed and causing cavitation.

Is the feed to the taps above the level of the top of the cylinder? Usually the air would find the easiest path and travel straight up the vent and with the HW feeds tee'ing off that vertical pipe then air wouldn't usually be drawn in. Have you altered any of the hot feed pipework, away from that pic?

P.s. never use PTFE tape on the threads of compression fittings, it can actually create leaks as the fitting can't tighten enough, only use tape directly on the olives (where the water seal is formed) if needed.

No not altered it too much, slightly yes as seen in the other pic earlier.

I thought the outlet pipe from the top of hw cylinder was supposed to be a straight piece of pipe with a slight rise in it to aid the dispersal of any trapped air? Then a tee to vent above and hot water downwards?

Would be interesting to see how it's piped in loft where the dogleg hw outlet goes through ceiling.

I'll get a pic up later, in work at the moment but basically it goes straight up then left via a elbow.

I have slightly altered the pipe above the hw cylinder as can be seen in the pics I posted earlier.

I did want to elbow of the cold water feed opposite the Flange but couldnt cut the pipe with my cutter as its too near the wall.

Altered

20180214_140724.jpg

20180213_191819.jpg Original
 
If I was to swap the hot and cold deed on my washing machine would that clear the airlock? Pressure from cold is perfect.[/QUOTE]

Cross-connecting the w/m cocks with one hose and giving it a blast to each tap would be my next move.
 
I thought the outlet pipe from the top of hw cylinder was supposed to be a straight piece of pipe with a slight rise in it to aid the dispersal of any trapped air? Then a tee to vent above and hot water downwards?

Would be interesting to see how it's piped in loft where the dogleg hw outlet goes through ceiling.

Loft pic

All pipes elbow to the left like I mentioned earlier.

20180209_192314.jpg

Cross-connecting the w/m cocks with one hose and giving it a blast to each tap would be my next move.

Sorry what do you mean here polesapart?

I put my finger over the mixer tap hole and turned the hot on whilst I then slowly turned it to cold, I think it's made a difference not spluttering as much now - mainly the bath mixer taps are the issue.
 

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