How would this product like? Seems something to consider for this type of gate valve malfunction case?
How do you shut the water for the cold tank?
- Thread starter spader
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Definitely something to consider if you have good condition 15mm or 22mm pipe, anything else - lead, old imperial copper, plastic etc and it wouldn't work.
Never used one but looks like it could be your answer.
Depends where you can fit it, ideally before your main isolation valve, then you can remove it, otherwise after and leave the existing one in place and (hopefully) fully open.
The pipe to the cold water tank in the loft is 22mm, and the 22mm version of EF Isolator valve kit is over £100 - £160 (Screwfix). So it is rather an expensive piece of kit. But if it does the job easy and reliable, then maybe worth it? Maybe I don't have to even look at the incoming mains water pipe in that case? Just install this valve under the old gate valve at the cold water tank, and then stop the water, which will enable the float valve replacement possible?
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Yes, to me it seems better idea to install the Easyfit isolator before the old gate valve, and then it stops the water, which will enable the gate valve replacement possible, or just keep using the both valves until the old gate valve fails with leakage. If / when that happens, just stop the water, and replace the gate valve with copper pipe or Lever valve. Yes, this product looks so cool, and seems answer to the stop valves failure situations.
More demonstration of the EasyFit Isolating Valve.
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Freeze the pipe before the gate valve ,cut out the gate valve ,fit a new lever isolation valve.
Your mains, with again the old style mains gate valve will undoubtedly be imperial (3/4"(19mm)). You will not be able to use that easy fit kit and be careful about using a new 22mm valve - you will need to use either 3/4">22mm olives (with wraps of PTFE tape) or covert the pipe to 22mm.
I think you may be advised to get a pro in to at least convert the mains valve into a metric lever by using a couple of 3/4">22mm adapter solder fittings, by far the safest way to do it IMO,
I think you may be advised to get a pro in to at least convert the mains valve into a metric lever by using a couple of 3/4">22mm adapter solder fittings, by far the safest way to do it IMO,
Great point. I took my caliper to the loft and measured the outside diameter of the pipe going into the cold water tank, and it was 22mm dot. But I was not sure whether the inside diameter of the pipe must be measured for the correct reading. The outside diameter of the pipe is definitely 22mm.
The internal diameter might be 19mm, I am not sure, there is no way to measure the internal diameter of the pipe because it is fully sealed up to the float valve connection. Something to confirm and claify before going ahead with the work for sure.
I contacted the local plumbers a few days ago, and they were not availble until middle of December all fully booked for the jobs, hence I decided to take up the work myself. So it must be very busy time for the plumbing works these days or maybe it is just norm for the professionals.
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Great info. Thanks.
I was looking at the freezing the pipes option on youtube, and it also seemed a good way to deal with the isolating pipe jobs without shutting off water. But there weren't that many youtube demonstrations on the actual working processes.
Also looking at this device for blocking water in live water pipes for carrying out the valve replacements.
I would only need the 22mm or 3/4" one.
I would only need the 22mm or 3/4" one.
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The copper pipe, above the valve - that has the grey fitting on it - will be 22mm yes, it looks like it has been changed after the connector just above the old valve. I would still say that the older pipe down at your stop tap and anything upstream of the valve in the loft will be imperial.
Try measuring that.
The jet swet stuff would be more for professionals @ £80-£90 even then that video isn't even at normal gravity pressure never mind mains pressure.
Try measuring that.
The jet swet stuff would be more for professionals @ £80-£90 even then that video isn't even at normal gravity pressure never mind mains pressure.
Yes, I think you are right. The grey plastic pipe above it seems for the upstair shower, and it must had been replaced at the time of the installtion.
The JET SWET has max. water pressure handling figure of 75 bar on the official spec. I am not sure how strong is 75 bar, and what bar would be the mains rising water pressure. But it seems useful device for some situation.
Good news is that I managed to open up part of the kitchen sink worktop (took a lot of effot and time due to the screws and brackets were in most awkward places under it), and was able to access the mains incoming water gate valve. It was very stiff, but turned without much hassle. It even stopped the water for the whole house too. The pipe is rusty and looks scary for possible fail at anytime. It felt like a miracle it turned and stopped the water completely and put the water back on when opened again.
I will now be able to replace the loft water tank gate valve without having to use the EasyFit Isolator 22mm at £160.
I was thinking of using a Lever valve and the fittings (the olives and caps). Would it be good choice for the replacement? Thanks.
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