Improving water pressure on a private water supply??

So Balenza, our ace DIYer.

'What is wrong with Reliance when they are much cheaper?'

The foundation of your ill informed argument has been how 'expensive' GAH accumulators are. They are cheaper than £797, for your information.

You have revealed that you have not even bothered to find out for yourself. Your 'knowledge base' appears to solely consist of some banter from other parts of the forum, which you have assumed to be true.

You have then rehashed those postings into your own to try to add some gravitas. Relying purely what you have read on the internet can expose you as a buffoon. Most of us in the trade have areas where we are still learning but we do not steam in with suppositions made out to be fact, our customers would not thank us.

Incidentally, if Doitall says these units are over a grand I expect they will be specially constructed for an application, eg: for a higher pressure, or temperature.
 
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Ok, here's my schematic with sizes and dims.

plumbing.jpg




I've measured the flow rate at the bathtap and kitchen tap and they are both 11 litres/min.
For the Un-vented system to work, it requires a min of 1.5bar / 20 l/m. I checked the pump whilst the bath tap was fully open and it held 3bar (well, the needle was shaking +/- 0.2bar!)

This is the graph of the pump

Jet62M.jpg


As you can see, the pump has to only lift the water about 10m.
Am I right in saying that, if I were to install the un-vented tank in place of the hot water tank, then the Head would decrease, thus possibly increase flow, as the pump can work easier?
 
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If your drawing is as fitted then you have a blockage, at 3bar you should have at least 40L/m

Check the fiters
 
Almost 300 feet of 32mm suction delivery pipe to a centrifugal pump ?.

Im surprised you havent questioned this Doitall !.
 
Balenza said:
Almost 300 feet of 32mm suction delivery pipe to a centrifugal pump ?.

Im suprised you havent questioned this Doitall !.

Why !!!! 32mm can easily supply the pump, there must be a ducks foot or other type of non return valve, and once the pump is primed it should run ok.

Saying that there is obviously a problem with the supply as the pump should suppy more than 22l/m. Could be the filter is blocked.

I would have a word with the manufacturer for possible problems and get their feedback on board before making any alterations.
 
Many thanks for this assistance all! :D :D :D

The system was newly installed in December 2006 (only 6 mths ago!), as we just purchased the place. By law the seller had to improve the water quality as it failed, so he got over £3K worth of kit put in.
The pump and filters are all new.

Doitall, I'll certainly question the company who supplied and installed the kit. At 6mths of barely any usage (we're still not moved in yet, due to gutting the place and starting again), I wouldn't have thought the filters would be clogged, but it's worth checking nevertheless.

How did you read that pump graph for 40l/m @ 3bar?
Is 3 bar not equivelant to 30m of head - saying that 1.42psi = 1m of head?

I did some pump calculations at Uni and gave it a go last night..........I don't think my answer was anywhere near the truth! lol
 
rocky_robin said:
Many thanks for this assistance all! :D :D :D

How did you read that pump graph for 40l/m @ 3bar?
Is 3 bar not equivelant to 30m of head - saying that 1.42psi = 1m of head?

I did some pump calculations at Uni and gave it a go last night..........I don't think my answer was anywhere near the truth! lol

How many Psi in a bar, methinks you have the dot in the wrong place :rolleyes:

E.G. 14.2

The kitchen sink if it is connected as per the drawing you should get virtually 3bar at the taps, certainly enough to cause a splash :rolleyes:
 
Er... no! He was refering to ONE metre which he has correctly shown as 1.4 PSI.

I would never assume a pump or boiler filter is not blocked.

Its usually quick to check them.

Tony
 
lol!

Don't worry doitall.................I accept your appologies! ;) :p No, really, thanks for helping me nevertheless. Good help is what I'm after. :D

Yeh, the kitchen tap makes such a splash, that the window at the back of the sink is always wet when washing yer hands!

It's just the flowrate that bothers me. :cry:

I'm out at the house all this weekend, so hopefully, I'll incounter something. I'll check the flowrate just after the pump to see if there's a blockage in the filters, or even if the filters themselves reduce the flowrate somewhat.

Cheers! :)
 
Check the flow rate at the sink first, then the shower on fully cold.

Check also with the shower rose disconnected.
 
rocky robin.
Have a look at this link. Go to page 8 and 9.
You've been to uni so you should have no trouble understanding this.
http://www.goulds.com/pdf/bpump.pdf

Looking at this I would certainly not have installed any more than 30M of 32mm mdpe suction pipe to your pump.
These set ups are quite common in my neck of the woods and I have never seen the pumps situated at great distances from the well head.
The old practise was always to build a pump house at the well head and run the electric cable to this and not the other way round.

Where is the pump situated at the moment. ?

Is your vertical lift (elevation) definately no more than what your diagram states ?.

I've measured the flow rate at the bathtap and kitchen tap and they are both 11 litres/min.

Running concurrently or independently ??.
Thats quite a neat cad sketch by the way .:cool:
 
Doitall. I think you will find this interesting.
The large tank in the background is an accumulator fed by a 1300 L/min submersible pump. 45,000 L in all.
Though only about 5000L are available for usable storage inside it.
Bet you never seen one this big. ;)
Decommissioned and replaced by the small one in the foreground.
363 L in all and providing the same amount of water for irrigation.
Al that wasted steel going to the scrap merchants. :cry:


Largeaccumulator.gif


The secret ?.
Can you give me the answer simond ?
 

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