In lieu of a 3 gang extension...

I did not know splitters like that were available!

That looks like it would be perfect other than the connector from the power supply - it needs to be a USB-C type for the rPi4 computer. If one of those is available then it looks like a viable solution. I assume I could remove the plug from the splitter and connect it directly to something like this?

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You said earlier about not knowing about wiring junction boxes so I assumed your wiring skills are limited (Not being rude, just trying to establish you abilities).

If you are proposing to install your attached inlet and are comfortable (competent) to wire it then to save money I'd suggest cutting up a couple of existing IEC leads rather than buying the split lead I linked to, that way they'd be the right length too.
 
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I don't think that it would necessarily be impossible - it looks as if there may be a fair bit of space in there.

As for the need for a cord grip, that would probably not be necessary within the socket, if it is going to be 'fixed' inside an 'enclosure'. Some sort of clip/restraint outside of the socket, close to where the cable enters it, would probably be adequate. It might even be possible to fit a small 'stuffing gland' to the end of the socket's enclosure.

Kind Regards, John
Thanks John - I'm waiting to hear back from them with the dimensions of the socket.
 
You said earlier about not knowing about wiring junction boxes so I assumed your wiring skills are limited (Not being rude, just trying to establish you abilities).

If you are proposing to install your attached inlet and are comfortable (competent) to wire it then to save money I'd suggest cutting up a couple of existing IEC leads rather than buying the split lead I linked to, that way they'd be the right length too.

My wiring skills are definitely limited - I'm happy enough to wire plugs, etc, and to follow directions. I've a YouTube video on the correct way to wire the inlet and it would be the perfect/neatest way to connect to the arcade table rather than having a mains lead and cable dangling from it at all times. The video in question shows how to wire a single cable (i.e. from the extension lead) directly into the inlet. Would the same process be viable/safe for connecting two leads simultaneously? If so, I now just need to find a power supply that takes a mains cable and outputs to a USB-C connector.
 
Just a quick update on this situation. There seem to be two possible solutions at present which would allow me to fit the plugs in the 45mm space inside the table.
  1. The solution suggested by @SUNRAY which involves https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-elec/pe01092/lead-uk-plug-to-2x-iec-c13-skt/dp/PL13331, https://cpc.farnell.com/ideal-power/25hk-ab-050a400-d56-1/psu-desktop-5v-4a-3-pin-iec-vi/dp/PW04127. I would rewire it to connect via https://cpc.farnell.com/schurter/dc11-0021-001/switched-c14-inlet-screw-red-illum/dp/CN20011 so the table could be plugged in anywhere using a simple kettle lead.
  2. Using two https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-elec/pe01127/extension-lead-one-gang-0-50m/dp/PL13128 and wiring them directly to https://cpc.farnell.com/schurter/dc11-0021-001/switched-c14-inlet-screw-red-illum/dp/CN20011.
The first is my preferred solution because of ease of implementation and also the lack of needing to squeeze an extension lead of any type inside the table. I do, however, have problems/questions for both approaches.

With solution 1 -

If I also bought an adapter (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Homyl-Charging-Adapter-Converter-Connector-as-described/dp/B07MKR2B4Y) then it looks to me that this would be a complete solution. Am I overlooking anything? I know the rPi4 computer has a non-compliant USB-C design so will only work with cables with no eMark chip. I'd assume a simple adapter like this would be fine for this case. Also, I can't find this adapter on Farnell but would have assumed they would stock them?​

With solution 2 -

I would need one gang extension leads that were no more than 45mm in width to fir inside the table but the Farnell site does not give the dimensions. Also, can I wire two leads directly to the C14 inlet?​

I think I'm very close to a working solution now thanks to the wonderful advice given so far. I'm hoping the first solution will be viable. Final pieces of advice are very welcome!
 
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The rPi will run from any quality 5V supply - it does not have to be a "wall wart". From memory, you can power it via the I/O pins, or via the header for the optional PoE converter - but you need to be more careful if doing this as there is no protection against reverse polarity or over-voltage, powering via the USB port there is protection.
Same will apply for the USB powered speakers - it'll be just using the USB for a 5V supply. So you can use a power supply like this open frame one, cannibalise a couple of USB leads for the right connectors, and no need for sockets or plug in "wall warts".
What monitor are you using ? Many of the flat panel ones have an external power supply, so you can do the same thing to provide 12V (typical requirement for monitors).
You can probably get both voltage from one supply. E.g. this 3 output one will provide you with 5V @ 4A and 12V @ 2A so should run everything for you.
BTW - if you do decide to use an open frame supply, then I'd suggest getting the optional cover for it (there's definitely one available for the 3 output Astec unit) - it'll make it a bit harder to touch live parts while poking around inside your cabinet.
 

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