One gang socket with USB

[ericmark]

Oh FHS - why on earth was the issue of connecting a thermostat/programmer to that boiler not considered, and dealt with at the time?

Was there a boiler before? Was there a thermostat/programmer before? How were they connected?



How would you get power to it?

How would you run a cable from the back of it to the Nest?

Nearly every wireless thermostat you buy has batteries, Nest is an odd one out, as to if you could run it off a power bank I don't know? Yes cordless kettles we all know must sit on a corded base to work, but how can manufacturers call thermostats wireless if it needs wires? My computer uses blueray and wifi but I would never call it wireless, it needs plugging in.

My radiators have wireless heads, there is a pair of AA cells to work them, the voltage is reported I can see the living room one is 2.89 volts at the moment, is that so hard? In other countries Nest does have batteries

So why not in this country? In the receiver there is a battery

and then no battery in remote sender, what is that about.

 

[monday]

Oh FHS - why on earth was the issue of connecting a thermostat/programmer to that boiler not considered, and dealt with at the time?

Well, it was. That's why there is a "wireless" thermostat. The alternative would have been 30+ feet of hardwiring. There is no real issue with the thermostat, just need to provide a neat power supply, concealed as much as possible.

 

[monday]

Nearly every wireless thermostat you buy has batteries, Nest is an odd one out, as to if you could run it off a power bank I don't know? Yes cordless kettles we all know must sit on a corded base to work, but how can manufacturers call thermostats wireless if it needs wires?

Batteries could have been an option. However, all resolved this morning as my daughter has revealed the presence of a suitable cupboard to house the USB socket. Thanks to all for ideas and help.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

-I had been about to suggest a small non-wallwart PSU which you could install behind a blanking plate.

 

[JohnW2]

Are there not some little battery-powered gizmos (or even a 'module' that might fit into a deep backbox) out there which provide a 5V output to a USB socket? I'm sure there are - they would be very easy to engineer.

Kind Regards, John

 

[monday]

-I had been about to suggest a small non-wallwart PSU which you could install behind a blanking plate.

Yes, very much what I was looking for originally. However the cupboard - which I have only just been told about - seems to solve the concealment problem, although we may need a longer USB to USB lead.

 

[monday]

Are there not some little battery-powered gizmos (or even a 'module' that might fit into a deep backbox) out there which provide a 5V output to a USB socket? I'm sure there are - they would be very easy to engineer.

I couldn't find a module as such but preferred a permanent supply anyway. However all now seems to be resolved - hopefully.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I think the Nest is battery powered anyway - the 5v is to charge the battery.

 

[JohnW2]

I couldn't find a module as such but preferred a permanent supply anyway. However all now seems to be resolved - hopefully.

It's now moot (I'm glad you have found a solution!) but, although I wouldn't necessarily suggesting eBay as a good source, a quick search of eBay finds countless DC-DC converter modules with a USB output - both 'up conversion' (e.g. to run off 1.5V or 3V batteries) and 'down converters' (primarily to run off 12V car batteries).

Kind Regards, John

 

[Echo the husky]

In other countries Nest does have batteries

Their wiring is different, they don't use the heatlink for one, the Nest controller does it all, hence the 10 terminals rather than the 2 in the UK model. I guess it would be difficult to get power to the unit without extra wiring.

 

[ericmark]

It's now moot (I'm glad you have found a solution!) but, although I wouldn't necessarily suggesting eBay as a good source, a quick search of eBay finds countless DC-DC converter modules with a USB output - both 'up conversion' (e.g. to run off 1.5V or 3V batteries) and 'down converters' (primarily to run off 12V car batteries).

Kind Regards, John

From what I understand from the heat link the voltage is 12 volt so it would seem it has quite a large voltage variation it will work with, so should be no need for any DC-DC converter.

Their wiring is different, they don't use the heatlink for one, the Nest controller does it all, hence the 10 terminals rather than the 2 in the UK model. I guess it would be difficult to get power to the unit without extra wiring.

Yes when we first started to see Nest internet hunts would find the extra low voltage unit, and I was mislead to thinking it would not work with 230 volt.

However still say it can't really be called wireless, it may use an RF link but it is not wireless.

 

[JohnW2]

From what I understand from the heat link the voltage is 12 volt so it would seem it has quite a large voltage variation it will work with, so should be no need for any DC-DC converter.

Are you saying that you think it would work with, say, a 1.5V battery (or maybe two of them, hence 3V), without an 'up converter'?

However still say it can't really be called wireless, it may use an RF link but it is not wireless.

As I said before, 'wireless' refers to the means of communication, not the powering of the device. Did you have the same problem with mains-powered 'wireless sets' in your youth (as mentioned by EFLI), and do you have the problem with 'wireless' (linked) mains-powered smoke alarms, WiFi routers etc.?

Kind Regards, John

 

[Echo the husky]

12V is for the rear terminals T1&T2, 5V for the USB input.