Installing a gas hob

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paddyalan said:
Thanks Red,

I was really going to get back as soon as Corgiboy posted his reply and see if I can get a real discussion going. But I really was to busy reading the corgi regs and installing my gas hob.

I'm actually a fully trained and fully qualified electrician, with a degree in electronics and a good standing in mechanical design and fitting. I may not have an acs or corgi cert but I do understand rules and regs which is why the job is now done to the correct corgi standard and spec. Tested and all!

I'm not saying that I am more, or less competent than a Corgi gas fitter but I have researched and followed the specs laid down by Corgi regarding installation and test. I would not have undertaken the job did I not feel I was capable of completing the job, safely and to spec.

Now back to the fact that as an electrician I am aware that my actions could kill another (much quicker than gas might I add), so to put your mind at rest: One BSP B 1/2" Female connector with a Fiber washer (supplied by the manufacturer) fitted at the base of the fitting, this was screwed onto the hob connector hand tight and then 3/4 further turn (PTFE tape is optional as the seal is made by the fiber washer). I have then connected up the pipe using an endfeed /capillary joint to make the connection to the gas main. Thats the easy bit done. To purge the gas pipe of all air (meter type E6, 5 x Volume of meter) open all windows first and inform all occupants that a gas purge is about to be performed, (As an electrician I am aware that there are some people who don't listen, so I switched off the electricity supply as well, just to make sure). Next using a manometer purchased from Screwfix I connected this to the gamain slowly brought the gas pressure up to 22mb and switched the gas off again,s left this for approx an hour came back and checked to find there was no reduction in gas pressure :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: . Finally I checked all joints with leak detection spray. Hopefully this satisfy's everyones requirements.

Just to wind up the corgi boys even more, I did move my boiler as well 2 feet to the left of where it was and it works a treat, I have installed a combined gas leak/ CO detector just to make sure and it looks like I have done the job right.

The advice I would give is that, yeah do gas installation, but only if you can read and understand specs and test requirements, as this is how you will gain competency, its not enough to ask your local plumbers merchant, they aren't gonna get you out of the s**t if you stuff up. As somewone who specs major engineering projects every day, I'm fairly confident, all I can say is rtfm if you are not sure and do lots of research before you try anything whether that is gas, electrical or mechanical. If you really aren't sure after rtfm, don't even attempt it matey, you will be putting yourself and others at risk.

I know of the loop holes in the gas fitting law and unfortunately until these loopholes are fixed there are going to be a lot of people doing there own gas fitting, whether compitent or not. I will be making it my responsability to make sure that people do electrical diy projects safely by telling people how to do the job safely and making them understand why the job is done that way. Surely it would make more sense for a good corgi registered plumber to give there opinions on how to do plumbing jobs safely to make sure it is done right, its not as if its gonna do you out of any work and at least you have the satisfaction of knowing that you have given correct guidence to an individual who without your help may have done the job anyway and inadvertently killed somone in the process. Its not enough these days to say "you shouldn't do it if your not corgi registered". They might decide to do it anyway and do it wrong and be living next door to you!

Any comments are welcome!

Al.

Any coments are welcome
 
very good but you still failed to carry out the tests correctly degree or no degree :D
 
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ive bought a gas hob from q&b but its lpg (was cheap)
will it be ok if i pipe it in 10mm hep as its easier to bend
i dont need an isolater as there is 1 on the combi
i dont like pushfit joints but as its behind the cupboard they will be easier
i know the jet things are wrong so i will drill them if this is not enough will it be ok to turn the meter governer up a bit
i will test for leaks (must do it right) by squirting all the joints with washing up liquid
think that covers it exept will it get enough gas as the combi is on a 15mm supply
thanks :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
 
kev,
why don't you make life easier and use one of them self cutting washing machine taps. it'll cut down on pipe joints and give you a built in isolation as well. then a buy a w/m hose and a couple of bushes and hey presto, hob fitted in 10 minutes.
 
Make sure it's Fairy you use, Kinder on the hands, lovely bubbles too :LOL:
 
too right

Why not use a flexi tap connector, they had a picture of one in the corgi mag this month, looks like a piece of **** to fit


:D
 
Nah! flexi tap connectors are for cookers. The braided variety of course.

Gotta consider safety you know.

If Somebody tells me how to I'll post a nice pic of one fitted an'all. :cry:
 
Hope this works

Copper pipe was also kinked, wonder why?

isolation by ballofix (water)[/img]
 

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