The work would only be notifiable if it involved any 'new circuits' (from your CU), and that shouldn't be necessary. Even in a kitchen, any amount of extension of existing circuits is allowed without the need for notification (in England - different in Wales).
Yes, that is a possibility. Thanks.
240 x 32 = 7,680W allowed (although may vary on various conditions.)
Yes 2.5mm both in parallel = 5mm.
Bit hefty what's the specifications?
Shouldn't you be asking your mate, he should be back off holiday by now?
He says separate feeds for the ovens but I haven’t got any spare breakers in my fuse box. He said either a new box with more breakers or he can fit a separate box with 2 x 20a breakers. He did say something else about a 6mm cable but I’ve forgotten exactly what. Only problem with any of those options are that to get a new feed from the fuse box to the cookers in the kitchen will mean removing the hot water cylinder from the airing cupboard to get the floor up and possibly the LVT flooring in the hall. I was looking for the easy and quick option. I suppose if I’m going to the trouble and expense of a new kitchen and cookers I might just as well do it properly - kitchen cabinets are being delivered tomorrow and I was hoping to have the oven housing and ovens in and working by tomorrow night!
Two ovens, each over 3Kw. The 6mm cooker feed will be used for the 7.2Kw induction hob but that’s on the other side of the kitchen with LVT flooring. I really don’t want to take that up.
With any circuit, the maximum load that should be applied is defined by the 'breaker' - so the answer to your questions is 32A, which equate to 7.36 kW at 230 V (probably a bit more in terms of how appliances are often described - the stated 'kW' commonly relating to 240V).
Sort of - although only if the load were at/near the middle of the ring. If the load were applied fairly close to one end of the ring, a lot more of the current would flow in the shorter leg of the ring than in the longer leg, thereby possibly exceeding the theoretical 'maximum current-carrying capacity' of the 2.5mm² cable of the short leg.
That’s definately on the books when this kitchen is finished but for now, I think I have it sorted. After a lot of chopping, sawing and hacking I managed to remove one board at the side of the hot water cylinder in the airing cupboard using my multi-tool and using a piece of trunking, I taped two 2.5mm cables to the end of it and with a bit of luck, guided it from under the floor under my stairs near to the hole in the floor in the airing cupboard. I felt around and fished it out. I now have 2 x 2.5 cables running from my consumer unit to the location where the ovens will be. Another bit of luck, if you look at my consumer unit, there’s a 32a breaker on the far right with nothing marked on it. I took the cover off and checked and there is nothing going to it so it can be used. I spoke to my electrician mate and asked him if it could be used for 2 x 20a feeds (one to each oven) and he said we can just connect the two 20a dp outlets with a link wire to make up a separate mini ring main just for the ovens.
Why?
Ah, I missed your previous post. Could they have been added to the cooker breaker?
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