Kingspan septic tank not working

[endecotp]

I don’t think there is anything special about the £8.74 plus £2.80 P&P one that ianmcd linked to.
It does say it is “waterproof” which some others don’t, but I think they all generally are sealed.
(Buy a couple maybe, just in case.)

 

[devs]

Okay good advice, can I just double check that these are correct and I’ll order a couple and see how I get on.. thanks

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/CBB61-AC45...100005.m1851&_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1&ul_noapp=true

 

[ianmcd]

yes as long as you select the 2uF ones in the drop down box

 

[devs]

Perfect thanks, will order now.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Ah okay I'm learning here I've just had another look online and I can select a 2 microFarads version via a dropdown on this auction. Trust this will do the job? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CBB61-AC450V-4-F-2-F-1-5uF-F-Wired-Motor-Run-Capacitor-Replacement-Black/332617433876?_trkparms=aid=555018&algo=PL.SIM&ao=1&asc=56003&meid=ff340ccf825d4a50968bac7e3a96dfb0&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=12&sd=332742202003&itm=332617433876&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Yeah that'll do the job- and saved me a search, think the cap on my electric chainsaw is on the way out, the 1.5 in that range will do me nicely

 

[devs]

Hmm, not the result that I was hoping for I received the replacement Capacitor today and have fitted to the motor.

Powered up and reset the control unit (no visual reset response lights etc) checked the motor/discs and they are not turning.

Back to the control unit to check fuses and they are all in tack.

Anything further that I could test prior to getting stung with a big bill...

Many thanks as always

 

[devs]

I've just double checked that power is indeed getting to the motor and it is. I copied the wiring from the previous capacitor. Can I just check that this is correct and that there is only one way to wire prior to punting for a new motor..

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Well boo indeed. I'm still a bit suspicious of the lack of activity from the panel, I'm also wondering what it is actually doing in your setup (there are a lot of empty connectors). Have you tried giving the motor or disc a turn (use a stick or something, don't think you'd want to get dragged in to that lot) while it is allegedly powered up
If the callout charge wasn't so extreme I'd be looking at getting the bloke in but as it is.....
Keep an eye on Fleabay and/or Gumtree and even Facebook Marketplace for a new panel
When you say you're getting volts to the motor- how many and at which terminals? (I'd be wanting 240-odd L-E, the same L-N and next to nothing N-E). Any discrepancies report back
Isolate the supply to the thing
Take some better photos of that terminal block at the motor end, mark the supply wires in some fashion to make sure you know which hole each cable goes into
Disconnect the supply wire (leave earth on, disconnect L & N) and disconnect 1 end of your new capacitor
With your meter on resistance settings (highest first so on yours it'd be 2Megohms), see if there is a circuit between the 2 terminals where the supply cable was. If there is a circuit, step the meter down the ohms range until you get some numbers on the display (rather than 0.00).
Another experiment worth a try- if that motor is definitely 240v AC then run power directly to it (bypass the controller in other words). Check all the info plates on the motor before you try this!
Consider (if you're confident the motor is FUBAR) taking it off and getting it fettled- there are places that will rewind and recondition electric motors

 

[coopersim]

I agree with what’s being said here regarding the lack of display on the control panel.

The empty connectors aren’t necessarily a problem as they provide connections for a variety of system configurations (for instance air blowers, sensors, alarms etc).

I’d go back over all the fuses on the board as you should be getting two dots moving backwards and forwards and possibly two dash symbols denoting a power failure in memory.

 

[coopersim]

If the connection on the pcb proves to be at fault you may be able to use one of the other connectors. Attached schematic may be of use.

 

[coopersim]

Control panel instructions attached, fault finding (not much use!) wiring info and dip switch settings.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Motor has clearly been goosed for a while, pretty sure few more days wont hurt in the grand scheme of things. I'd go with 'oldbutnotdead's' advice, remove the motor and find a local motor rewind specialists that should be able to test and/or repair the motor, before splashing out silly money on Klargester's engineers.

Ultimately, all these need is a 240v supply to the motor, all the extra gubbins are additional to offer early warnings in event of an issue with the unit. Handy, but not absolutely essential, unless the unit discharging improperly treated effluent is likely to land you a massive pollution fine.

 

[endecotp]

power is indeed getting to the motor

How exactly are you measuring that?

 

[devs]

Hi guys, I was speaking to a helpful lady over at Kingspan yesterday and we also came to the conclusion that the panel is also faulty in someway. A dot before the first digit on the LED should always be lit during normal operation. However other than fault report the panel doesn’t do anything else so I’m not really concerned about this as power is getting over to the motor. (This was checked via a meter to the final connecting block.)

I didn’t know that it was possible to fix these motors up. A neighbour also recommended having the motor rewound. I’ve found a local place so will give them a go on Monday and see how I get on..

Thanks chaps and enjoy the weekend!

 

[devs]

Hi guys, the local motor rewind place has long gone so I've purchased a new motor that I'm about to fit.. However the wire colouring has changed from the original and I just wanted to run it by you pros as I don't want to make any mistakes. If someone could point me in the right direction... As to what goes where and how to connect up the capacitor?

Old wires outside to motor.

New motor: