L shaped worktop levelling

[kjacko]

Hi all,
So my office is 2m x 3m. I have an L-shaped (2m x 3m x 635mm) office worktop (28mm thick), butt jointed using 3 easibolts in one corner spanning both walls. I didn’t want any legs impeding chair access so I have batons on the walls holding the back edges level and Herkules heavy duty 500mm brackets to help support the fronts.
However, because my walls aren’t plumb the worktop doesn’t sit on the 90° brackets.
So my idea is to to puts shims between the brackets and worktops until they meet, which allows me to level it all up as well as support as they are bowing in the middle on the fronts right now. I”m also thinking of putting some c-channel along the underneath to remove any bowing.
BUT, should I unjoin the 2 worktops first? So, take out the easibolts, level each worktop up then rejoin them?
That seems the better and safer way to do it to me, but would appreciate any advice.
Also, the cinder block inner wall is garbage. I’ve tried brown plugs and screws to secure the brackets, coach bolts/plugs and also the self-tapping bolts, all just crumble inside the block, leaving 2 out of the 4 brackets loose. I used soudhall foam adhesive in the bolt holes on one to try and fix it, but it’s come loose again.
I’ve now bought some chemical anchors to help fix this.


TIA.

 

[opps]

I would have recommended chemical fixings but your brackets look like they will only accept screws. I guess that you could use timber, bolt that to the wall with chem fixings but the timber would need to be quite thick to screw the brackets into.

 

[kjacko]

I would have recommended chemical fixings but your brackets look like they will only accept screws. I guess that you could use timber, bolt that to the wall with chem fixings but the timber would need to be quite thick to screw the brackets into.

I have thought about mounting the brackets onto timber, but the most troublesome bracket is behind a radiator and I had to angle grind a bit out of it to get it to fit. It doesn’t compromise its strength but I can’t baton it out because there’s no room.

 

[Odds]

I have thought about mounting the brackets onto timber, but the most troublesome bracket is behind a radiator and I had to angle grind a bit out of it to get it to fit. It doesn’t compromise its strength but I can’t baton it out because there’s no room.

You could try M8 Shield Anchors in the blocks - can you not remove the radiator to make it easier to fix on the wall?

 

[opps]

You could try M8 Shield Anchors in the blocks - can you not remove the radiator to make it easier to fix on the wall?

These are the brackets



Not sure how large a fitting it will take. That said it look like it will accept M6 threaded rods/bolts.

 

[kjacko]

These are the brackets

View attachment 355505

Not sure how large a fitting it will take. That said it look like it will accept M6 threaded rods/bolts.

Those are indeed the brackets I’m using. Using m10 bolts and plugs (like the ones supplied with radiators).
Anyway i’ve been to screwfix and bought some of the resin fixing. If I can’t get the plugs out then I’m hoping that I can still squeeze some into the plug and then screw the bolt back in.
I could remove the radiator, it’s a new lower one that I bought so that it would fit under the worktop. Obvs i installed the bracket first after grinding some of it out to fit behind the rad.

 

[foxhole]

Do you mean thermalite blocks?

 

[kjacko]

Do you mean thermalite blocks?

Don’t think they’re thermalite. It’s a 70s built mining estate.

 

[opps]

Those are indeed the brackets I’m using. Using m10 bolts and plugs (like the ones supplied with radiators).
Anyway i’ve been to screwfix and bought some of the resin fixing. If I can’t get the plugs out then I’m hoping that I can still squeeze some into the plug and then screw the bolt back in.
I could remove the radiator, it’s a new lower one that I bought so that it would fit under the worktop. Obvs i installed the bracket first after grinding some of it out to fit behind the rad.

I see, so you will use packers where the top of the bracket meets the worktop?

BTW, did you biscuit the joint in the worktop?

 

[kjacko]

I see, so you will use packers where the top of the bracket meets the worktop?

BTW, did you biscuit the joint in the worktop?

Yes I’ll use packers and no not biscuit jointed. It was a dry run that seemed to go well so I carried on without biscuits.
Then I found the out of level issue and the dip in the centre. Guess I’ll have to strip it down again, sort the bracket issues, biscuit joint the worktops and let’s see how it goes.

 

[opps]

Don’t think they’re thermalite. It’s a 70s built mining estate.

Thermolite generally generates light grey dust when you drill into it. My gaff has cinder blocks. Waste products that were compacted into blocks locally. They generate black dust.

 

[foxhole]

Better to secure timber to wall with several fixing then Screw brackets to timber .Though they will never hold that size top up without legs, 2 minimum. ( no reason they should impede use).

 

[kjacko]

Thermolite generally generates light grey dust when you drill into it. My gaff has cinder blocks. Waste products that were compacted into blocks locally. They generate black dust.

That’s the ones..

 

[kjacko]

Better to secure timber to wall with several fixing then Screw brackets to timber .Though they will never hold that size top up without legs, 2 minimum. ( no reason they should impede use).

Agree about the timber, but with enough brackets they deffo should hold up the worktop. My stepson has done it.

 

[foxhole]

Agree about the timber, but with enough brackets they deffo should hold up the worktop. My stepson has done it.

So it’s fitted in a corner ? You didn’t mention that .