L shaped worktop levelling

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Yes I’ll use packers and no not biscuit jointed. It was a dry run that seemed to go well so I carried on without biscuits.
Then I found the out of level issue and the dip in the centre. Guess I’ll have to strip it down again, sort the bracket issues, biscuit joint the worktops and let’s see how it goes.

From memory... the person that I would defer to on this is @jobandknock, unfortunately he is MIA. From memory... I think when I asked for advice in a slightly similar situation, he recommended using silicone rather than glue for the biscuits because of the dynamic loads.
 
From memory... the person that I would defer to on this is @jobandknock, unfortunately he is MIA. From memory... I think when I asked for advice in a slightly similar situation, he recommended using silicone rather than glue for the biscuits because of the dynamic loads.
I would have used glue to put the biscuits in, but then silicon to join the 2 worktops.
Does that sound acceptable?
 
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I would have used glue to put the biscuits in, but then silicon to join the 2 worktops.
Does that sound acceptable?

I don't know the answer. I would be inclined to use silicone for the whole lot because it will be more forgiving once things start to bow/expand/contract.

Getting back to an earlier response. Is the dust grey or black? Your post was not clear.
 
When the OP said that it was L shaped, I assumed he was referring to a corner, but I can see why you thought otherwise.
Yes deffo in a corner from wall to wall, hence the batons along each wall and the idea to just use heavy duty brackets to hold up the worktop which remember is 28mm not 40mm thick, and no legs.
 
I don't know the answer. I would be inclined to use silicone for the whole lot because it will be more forgiving once things start to bow/expand/contract.

Getting back to an earlier response. Is the dust grey or black? Your post was not clear.
Dust is black. Pretty certain they are cinder blocks. Drill bit slips a lot too, which I guess is why the plugs don’t properly catch in the hole even when the bolt opens the wings out when screwed in.
 
Yes deffo in a corner from wall to wall, hence the batons along each wall and the idea to just use heavy duty brackets to hold up the worktop which remember is 28mm not 40mm thick, and no legs.

It worked for your stepson. Did he use glue or silicone for the biscuits?

Dust is black

Ok, the same as my internal walls. Yeah, they are weak. Mine are skimmed with a really, really hard cement based plaster. Again a 1950's property.
 
Ok, sorry. My stepson has used the same brackets to hold up his worktop and that is solid oak.
It’s NOT L-shaped, but it is much heavier than my worktop.
I’m fairly confident that the brackets will work, once I get them properly anchored to the walls AND packed right to actually connect to the worktops.
 
Ok, sorry. My stepson has used the same brackets to hold up his worktop and that is solid oak.
It’s NOT L-shaped, but it is much heavier than my worktop.
I’m fairly confident that the brackets will work, once I get them properly anchored to the walls AND packed right to actually connect to the worktops.

I would guess that your's being L shaped will help to distribute the loads.

Best of luck
 
I have thought about mounting the brackets onto timber, but the most troublesome bracket is behind a radiator and I had to angle grind a bit out of it to get it to fit. It doesn’t compromise its strength but I can’t baton it out because there’s no room.

It will still need either legs, or some other form of support, for the front edge, to prevent it being springy. Assuming it curls around on the right - one on the left, one support for the right, at the corner, then a third on the extreme right. An, alternative, might be to use a pair of matching, two drawer filing cabinets, as the supports taking most of the weight, then just bracket to the wall, for extra stability.
 

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