Light switch relocation (fair price or DIY?) (Ed.)

[flameport]

, or is this totally doable?

It can be done, but not in the way you might expect.

Cables can't be left in the walls where the old switches are, so the most likely method would be to:
cut a section of coving out directly above the existing switch
cut away plaster or whatever there to locate the existing cable
remove the cable
join to a new length using a suitable permanent method (not screw terminals)
run that cable either above the ceiling or behind the coving to a position above the new light switch
chase the wall vertically down to the new switch
install a box in the wall
repair the walls
connect and test the new switch
replace the coving sections
fill & redecorate.

Repeat for the other room.

The electrics were completely redone when the previous owners extended the house about 5 years ago.

That should mean a consumer unit that's recent and suitable but that would need to be confirmed before anything else.

 

[Old Salt]

Quinetic....wireless....maybe=less headache?

I have one controlling 2 outside lights that works without problems.

 

[Risteard]

Thanks for all this. There's a lot that I don't know and will only appreciate when someone draws my attention to it.

So, I'm away from home so can't photograph, but I'm pretty sure my circuit breaker has rcd protection, though I'll check when I can. The electrics were completely redone when the previous owners extended the house about 5 years ago.

As to why I want to move them, it's that there in inconvenient locations. One is in the hallway when it controls the light for the dining room (not too far, but a nuisance). The other is smack in the middle of the lounge wall, which is where I'm looking to put a large mirror.

From searching, safe zones seem to be a practice of routing cabling around edges or corners of walls. Presumably so that idiots such as myself won't drill through them when adding large mirrors. Sounds very sensible and I've no idea if the electric works in place have followed this.

You need an Electrician. You are not competent to DIY this.

 

[Sandwhale]

What a pointlessly condescending comment without offering anything of value.

Where is the explanation as to why it's beyond my ability? Which you somehow feel confident to judge without knowing me. Others have already commented on the challenges, so what value does your comment add?

Also, I'm pretty sure I said I'd be getting an electrician regardless of any involvement.

 

[Sandwhale]

It can be done, but not in the way you might expect.

Cables can't be left in the walls where the old switches are, so the most likely method would be to:
cut a section of coving out directly above the existing switch
cut away plaster or whatever there to locate the existing cable
remove the cable
join to a new length using a suitable permanent method (not screw terminals)
run that cable either above the ceiling or behind the coving to a position above the new light switch
chase the wall vertically down to the new switch
install a box in the wall
repair the walls
connect and test the new switch
replace the coving sections
fill & redecorate.

Repeat for the other room.


That should mean a consumer unit that's recent and suitable but that would need to be confirmed before anything else.

Thanks for the detailed comment.

I've mentioned before, but I'm not looking to do the whole job myself. I wouldn't trust myself not to start an electrical fire if I started to play with the wiring. This has given me a good idea of what's involved if I were to prep the walls ready for a skilled electrician to come and do the wiring side of things, just leaving the plastering for me to finish.

Others have said that some electricians might not be keen on taking over from prep I've done myself, so I'll just have to feel things out there

 

[Risteard]

What a pointlessly condescending comment without offering anything of value.

Where is the explanation as to why it's beyond my ability? Which you somehow feel confident to judge without knowing me. Others have already commented on the challenges, so what value does your comment add?

Also, I'm pretty sure I said I'd be getting an electrician regardless of any involvement.

Wrong. My comments were the most correct comments made on this thread.

 

[ericmark]

In terms of where the old switches exist, I know that a faceplate needs to be added, which is fine as pictures/mirror is going in front

That is the bit I have read, did not go any further, so I would fit a TP-Link light switch, as easy enough once a year to remove mirror and fit new batteries, likely better using kinetic as already said, as no batteries required, the difference between the two is the Tapo (TP-link) will also connect to internet, so can use voice commands as well as a remote control which look like a push button switch, but also has a magnetic back so can stick to anything metal, the switch comes with a sticky back metal plate, so could even go on the mirror if you wanted.

Moving the wires will be expensive, but maybe just fit the smart/kinetic switch higher up above the mirror, if not used, does it matter where it is?

 

[Sandwhale]

Wrong. My comments were the most correct comments made on this thread.

I made the mistake of coming back to check on this thread, only to find you've double downed on the uselessness.

Discounting that reply, you'd only made one post rather than multiple comments that you imply. That one post adding nothing of value as I'd explained before.

I'll not be checking back on this thread, so by all means post again to 'win' this debate. Regardless of whether you do or not, have a think and be honest with yourself about how you've given any kind of explanation or instruction that adds value to this conversation. You might have a wealth of knowledge to back up your comment, but without explaining the reasoning behind your comment you're not helping anyone make an informed decision about what they should do.

 

[Sandwhale]

That is the bit I have read, did not go any further, so I would fit a TP-Link light switch, as easy enough once a year to remove mirror and fit new batteries, likely better using kinetic as already said, as no batteries required, the difference between the two is the Tapo (TP-link) will also connect to internet, so can use voice commands as well as a remote control View attachment 363386which look like a push button switch, but also has a magnetic back so can stick to anything metal, the switch comes with a sticky back metal plate, so could even go on the mirror if you wanted.

Moving the wires will be expensive, but maybe just fit the smart/kinetic switch higher up above the mirror, if not used, does it matter where it is?

Thanks for the suggestion, yet another option that I'd not heard of before.

Plans to do anything with this have been pushed back to the new year so I'll have Christmas to decide in the way forward.

Thanks a lot for the suggestion

 

[Risteard]

I made the mistake of coming back to check on this thread, only to find you've double downed on the uselessness.

Discounting that reply, you'd only made one post rather than multiple comments that you imply. That one post adding nothing of value as I'd explained before.

I'll not be checking back on this thread, so by all means post again to 'win' this debate. Regardless of whether you do or not, have a think and be honest with yourself about how you've given any kind of explanation or instruction that adds value to this conversation. You might have a wealth of knowledge to back up your comment, but without explaining the reasoning behind your comment you're not helping anyone make an informed decision about what they should do.

I referred to "comments" and not "posts", so again you are wrong. Sorry @Sandwhale but @Risteard is the victor.

 

[opps]

I am not an electrician. I was not under the impression that such works need to be signed off. AFAIK, you will need to access the ceiling to run the cable vertically down to the light switch. You cannot just deviate to the left of a light switch. Cables are not supposed to be hidden in walls without any way of someone being able to predict where they run.

 

[Risteard]

I am not an electrician. I was not under the impression that such works need to be signed off. AFAIK, you will need to access the ceiling to run the cable vertically down to the light switch. You cannot just deviate to the left of a light switch. Cables are not supposed to be hidden in walls without any way of someone being able to predict where they run.

Such works require "competence", which sadly is lacking here.