Moving a switched fused spur on kitchen wall

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Winston - please resolve to do the following: Spend 16 hours per day for the next 70 years standing in front of a mirror saying "not necessary is not equivalent to not allowed"./QUOTE]

I never said it was not allowed. I said to consider changing it as it was not necessary and could be a nuisance if both blew under fault conditions.

The nuisance would be probably having to replace the fuse in the plug, having to scramble about in cupboards full of pots, pans, boxes, containers, plates etc.. or having to pull out an appliance on lino/laminate floors and work in confined spaces. By removing the SFCU for a two pole unfused iso, that is not going to change if the plug fuse blows.

Or both.
 
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Because two identical fuses in line is not necessary and a nuisance under fault conditions when both will probably blow.
IME, fuses in appliance plugs blow, on average, approximately never.

If one does, it is highly likely that the appliance needs to be pulled out to be repaired, or possibly scrapped.

Calculating probability x effort, the trouble caused by a duplicate fuse is of little consequence.
 
The fuse in the plug/plug/socket location, will very likely be the bigger nuisance in my opinion and experience. Changing a fuse in fuse connection unit, when located as an above worktop isolator, in comparison is much easier. Now if you had said remove/replace the plug for a flex outlet/connection and keep the SFCU, I would have been very happy to agree with you.

As it stands your suggestion is a complete waste of time and expense. With very little or any advantages.
 
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In the late 80's I worked with an ECA reg spark who used to fit FCU's above and a BS546 below.

His reasoning was that he did not want to leave a fuse in a position where it would be tricky to reach.

This was in the day when fitting accessories in cupboards was not seen as best practice.
 
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With very little or any advantages.
Except for the most common ones

When you buy a new appliance, you just pull out the old one and pull out its moulded plug from the socket.

And when you install a new one you just plug in its moulded plug.

No need to crawl about on the floor with a selection of screwdrivers and try to connect wires into terminals. Or pay £50 to the man from Currys. Even more of a nuisance than the highly improbable need to change the fuse in a plug.

How often do you think appliances blow the fuse, and do not need to be pulled out for repair or replacement?
 
In the late 80's I worked with an ECA reg spark who used to fit FCU's above and a BS546 below.

His reasoning was that he did not want to leave a fuse in a position where it would be tricky to reach.

This was in the day when fitting accessories in cupboards was not seen as best practice.

When I rewire or add circuits to kitchens/utilities, I tend to do something similar. Have above worktop or local isolation, sometime it is SFCU if the appliance requires to be down fused from the circuit, and then manufacture the circuit so there no inaccessible joints or difficult to get to fuses.
I use the click flow connectors when needed, as they can carry 20A.
A bit of forward planning and in most cases it is doable.
 
I have to say that it seems to me to be unnecessary work with little or no benefit.

FCUs are not the most attractive accessories to have above the worktop in a 'new' kitchen; neither are grid switches/fuses and all the extra cable runs are a waste.
 
And I have to say that too many people here seem to be adopting "winston-logic", and failing to distinguish between what they would do wrt installing switches or FCUs in an installing-new-accessories situation (e.g. a new kitchen with appliances in new places), and what they would do wrt removing existing switches or FCUs if they encountered them.

Whatever your views on the usefulness of switches or FCUs when designing something new, this:

Fair enough but consider changing it for a 20amp switch. As I said, "You don't actually need a switched FCU for a washing machine as there is a fuse in the washing machines plug".

is barking mad. It's there. It's done. The decision has been made. Leave the ****ing thing alone.
 
And I have to say that too many people here seem to be adopting "winston-logic", and failing to distinguish between what they would do wrt installing switches or FCUs in an installing-new-accessories situation (e.g. a new kitchen with appliances in new places), and what they would do wrt removing existing switches or FCUs if they encountered them.

Whatever your views on the usefulness of switches or FCUs when designing something new, this:


is barking mad. It's there. It's done. The decision has been made. Leave the ****ing thing alone.

That may be your opinion. I don't share it for reasons already stated. What the OP decides to do is up to him, but in the same situation I would change it for a switch.
 
I agree that you don't share my opinion.

I disagree strongly that your opinion has anything like reasoning as its foundation.
 
Why do sparks install these needless above counter isolators. All you need is one 32A dp isolator for the whole ring located near the kitchen door. So, if an appliance stops working, you turn off the isolator, remove appliance and switch power back on, job done in a few minutes.
 
Why do sparks install these needless above counter isolators. All you need is one 32A dp isolator for the whole ring located near the kitchen door. So, if an appliance stops working, you turn off the isolator, remove appliance and switch power back on, job done in a few minutes.
This is what I use
knife_switch_by_iunewind-d6mfw54.jpg
 
Why do sparks install these needless above counter isolators. All you need is one 32A dp isolator for the whole ring located near the kitchen door. So, if an appliance stops working, you turn off the isolator, remove appliance and switch power back on, job done in a few minutes.
Watson - will you PLEASE either just leave the site, or if you stay, stop giving electrical advice.

You are an ignorant fool, telling people to do something dangerous.
 
Watson - will you PLEASE either just leave the site, or if you stay, stop giving electrical advice.

You are an ignorant fool, telling people to do something dangerous.

There is nothing dangerous about my advice. Why do you think it is dangerous?
 

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