Mira sport shower suddenly gone cold

[nazlfc]

The thick brown does that come from the connector block at the top of shower ?

Yes it does.

 

[seco services]

Put thick brown & thin brown on oneside 2 greys on other.

 

[nazlfc]

Put thick brown & thin brown on oneside 2 greys on other.

Thanks seco,

I had an inkling it could be that but best to get it verified.

Although, I'm getting a niggling feeling that one of the grey wires may have been linked with the two brown wires on the right side of the TCO. Don't know why (maybe the positioning of the wires although I've moved them left, right and all over the place just get the old TCO out)

Getting the earth screwed is a little fiddly since the screw seems to not be magnetic. Hopefully, I'll get there with that.

After all the wires in do I need to do an additional continuity test before I put the cover on?

 

[seco services]

No continuity test needed.

Can you see where the other end of the greys go ?
and you def got no other loose wires ?

 

[nazlfc]

No continuity test needed.

Can you see where the other end of the greys go ?
and you def got no other loose wires ?

Both grey wires seem to follow back down to the middle behind the circuit board in the middle (controls board)

Can't see any further loose wires at all. So it's just these wires.

 

[seco services]

right ok.

 

[nazlfc]

right ok.

You reckon it's ok to go ahead with two greys on one side (the left) and the two browns (thin and thick) on the other side (the right)

 

[seco services]

These models varied depending on age etc.
now i'm going from memory and what colours you have available i see so many and all are different.

The 2 browns are def correct on the inside of tco.
some had 2 greys for a overheat neon but then had other wires for pcb.

you say you haven't got any other colours loose or in wrong place.
even if overheat was wired wrong it wouldn't blow nothing.

so try it.

you could give me a full front pic if poss.

 

[nazlfc]

These models varied depending on age etc.
now i'm going from memory and what colours you have available i see so many and all are different.

The 2 browns are def correct on the inside of tco.
some had 2 greys for a overheat neon but then had other wires for pcb.

you say you haven't got any other colours loose or in wrong place.
even if overheat was wired wrong it wouldn't blow nothing.

so try it.

you could give me a full front pic if poss.

Mine does have an overheat neon. Here is the picture to confirm the front:

View media item 41527

 

[seco services]

I know what the covers like the inside view.

You can try the shower.

 

[nazlfc]

I know what the covers like the inside view.

You can try the shower.

OK thanks going to give it ago.

Thanks for all your help and will report back soon my results.

 

[nazlfc]

Hi seco,

Installed the TCO successfully and started the shower. However, it still the same constant cold water no matter what flow level its at high, medium and low including setting at the hottest temperature.

Does this mean Mira have sent me a dud TCO or is there anything that I should have done.

This is becoming really frustrating and to replace like for like may cost over \£250 for shower plus fitting


Any help and advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

[nazlfc]

Sounds like this shower has had it.

looking at the fault diagnosis on the Mira website below:

"No change in temperature between Low/Medium/High setting. Low Flow warning light - Off. Heater Setting - Any.

Possible failure of Flow valve or heater tank - Check the continuity of the heater tank and replace parts as necessary.

PCB failure - Replace PCB assembly."


I just get freezing cold water and nothing else no matter what setting its at.

 

[seco services]

Lets start at the beginning i only see the post from when you decided to change tco.

Did you check the original tco for continuity before changing ?
Has the new tco got continuity ?

 

[nazlfc]

sorry afraid the only thing I hadn't done was check the continuity on the first TCO so I hold my hand up here. I made an assumption based on the exact symptoms of some of the posters earlier in this thread which met mine and went for the cheapest component replacement which was the TCO. I'll get hold a multimeter and check for the continuity on both the TCO's and the heater element on the water tank. If it's the water tank then I think it maybe better if I get hold of a new shower or working used version of what I have or lesser version.