Mira sport shower suddenly gone cold

[nazlfc]

Sounds like this shower has had it.

looking at the fault diagnosis on the Mira website below:

"No change in temperature between Low/Medium/High setting. Low Flow warning light - Off. Heater Setting - Any.

Possible failure of Flow valve or heater tank - Check the continuity of the heater tank and replace parts as necessary.

PCB failure - Replace PCB assembly."


I just get freezing cold water and nothing else no matter what setting its at.

I stand corrected this is the issue I am suffering (taken from the Mira Support fault diagnosis site)

"Appliance fails to produce hot water when set on Medium/High heater Setting. Low Flow warning light - Off. Heater Setting - Medium/High.

Possible failure of the thermal switch - Check the continuity of the heater tank and replace parts as necessary.

Heater tank failure - Replace."

It looks to me like it could be the heater tank no. Can I test continuity on this heater tank by any chance?

The heater tank is the a far more expensive part. I'm not sure if it is straight forward to replace.

 

[seco services]

It looks to me like it could be the heater tank no. Can I test continuity on this heater tank by any chance?

You can test continuity on the heating elements.
If you have continuity on both elements then test for resistance on both.
Each should be 10 - 18 ohms.

I very much doubt you have a failed heat can due to no heat at all, very rare both heating elements fail together.

The heater tank is the a far more expensive part. I'm not sure if it is straight forward to replace.

Easy when you know how but is a straight foreward job.
Easier done off the wall.

 

[nazlfc]

It looks to me like it could be the heater tank no. Can I test continuity on this heater tank by any chance?

You can test continuity on the heating elements.
If you have continuity on both elements then test for resistance on both.
Each should be 10 - 18 ohms.

I very much doubt you have a failed heat can due to no heat at all, very rare both heating elements fail together.

The heater tank is the a far more expensive part. I'm not sure if it is straight forward to replace.

Thanks again

I'll report back once I have done the continuity test. Going to order a multimeter so hopefully I can get some results back for you next week if not sooner.

Thanks again

Easy when you know how but is a straight foreward job.
Easier done off the wall.

 

[nazlfc]

Hi Seco,

I have finally bought a digital multimeter. Not sure if I'm doing this right but I have set the range dial on the multimeter to Audiable continuity setting (forward pointing triangle with line through it)

I tested the old TCO and I got a reading of 001. Just to let you know it is on 1 before anything is tested. I used the red and black leads and used them to touch either side of the TCO (left/right). Is this correct? Does a reading of 001 mean that there is no continuity?

I tried the same on the new continuity in the shower. A bit awkward but I wasn't getting a consistent reading and the numbers were all the place so I'm not sure if I have done that right.

I tried the element that sticks out of the water heater and got a reading of 001 initially but not sure if I was pointing the leads to the right areas to get a reading. If I point the leads on the horizontal piece of metal that bridges the two ends I get the same random numbers as the new TCO. Again not sure if I am doing this correctly.

Any help and advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

[nazlfc]

Just one further thing regarding the testing of continuity.

If I touch the black probe with the red probe shouldn't the multimeter make a noise to indicate continuity. I have set mine to 200 ohms and done this and I get no noise. Could it be that the multimeter is faulty? What reading should I be getting on the display to indicate continuity doing the above?
I'm getting random numbers in a large range.

It would useful to know if this is the case so I can return the multimeter if faulty or it being unable to test for continuity.

 

[seco services]

You won't get a Audiable set to ohms reading

Mine has a dot and three vertical lines for Audiable continuity test.
not a meter have this on.

what do the instructions say ?

 

[seco services]

I tested the old TCO and I got a reading of 001. Just to let you know it is on 1 before anything is tested. I used the red and black leads and used them to touch either side of the TCO (left/right). Is this correct? Does a reading of 001 mean that there is no continuity?

That is you have continuity 1 then touch probes changes to 001

i'm sure triangle with a line through it is diode test.

not something i've used.

 

[nazlfc]

I tested the old TCO and I got a reading of 001. Just to let you know it is on 1 before anything is tested. I used the red and black leads and used them to touch either side of the TCO (left/right). Is this correct? Does a reading of 001 mean that there is no continuity?

That is you have continuity 1 then touch probes changes to 001

i'm sure triangle with a line through it is diode test.

not something i've used.

I can't see the a setting on the dial which has a . and three vertical lines on mine. The instructions are really poor I have to say. I have section stating Audiable Continuity Test and Diode. Here we have a table, 1. a Triangle with horizontal line through it and a vertical line at the tip of the triangle. 2. A icon with what looks like it represents sound. However, on the dial itself it's not visible.

I guess the triangle must represent the Diode.

Ok here is the multimeter.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-Mul...SJXG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1326713385&sr=8-4

I bought it from toolstation but its the exact one. Hope this helps

 

[seco services]

I had one of them and it never had Audiable continuity test so outed it.

 

[nazlfc]

So you reckon I should return it and get on that does.

Any recommendations for one that does an audiable continuity test?
Budget kind of tight so could do with having to pay more than £10

 

[nazlfc]

Hi,

Struggling here, could anyone let me know where I can find decent yet cheap multimeter that does an Audible Continuity Test (one that beeps if there is continuity).

I'm convinced I have not fully eliminated the TCO being the faulty component in my shower which I could do with via a thorough continuity test. Mira are sending me another TCO so will test it straight out of the packaging first. Until then I do not want to focus on the heater tank as if it is then I will replace the shower with cheaper alternative from Triton as I can foresee that fixing this shower could end up costing more.

 

[Dougie212]

http://www.toolbox.co.uk/draper-607...gleBase&utm_medium=GB&utm_campaign=GoogleBase


Not the one I own, but states audible continuity buzzer..

 

[acenbooks]

Hi,

I am trying to replace a TCO for a Mira Sport Shower as well.

Two questions to clarify;

(1) Do I need to turn the water off?
(2) I have a screw at the front and at the either side holding it down. At the back I seem to have a brass coloured flat headed thing which may be the result of an earlier repair by a previous owner.

I haven't attempted this until I am sure about the water.

I have tested the continuity to the best of my ability on the old one and have the new part.

http://www.showerdoc.com/mira-thermal-switch-416-41

thanks

 

[seco services]

(1) Do I need to turn the water off?]/quote]
No only the mains power at the isolator.

(2) I have a screw at the front and at the either side holding it down.

No you have a screw at the front the back just slides into the groove on the brass pole.
The other 2 connections on eachside are for the connections for the wires. (make note of them before removing, DON'T get them muddled up.)

At the back I seem to have a brass coloured flat headed thing which may be the result of an earlier repair by a previous owner.

No that is meant to be like that so the tco slides into the groove, If it was a screw you wouldn't get to it easy.
It's not a bodge job.