Modifying radiator pipe position under floor void

[DP]

Take some holy water and a wooden stake too. God only knows what will be lurking down there
And good luck. When you are back up, do post so readers can breath a sigh of relief that you are safe after your journey into the unknown

 

[dishman]

I have actually used some fairy lights (a use other than Christmas!) so it is well lit too. I think Joseph Fritzel would be impressed.

 

[dishman]

Hmm based on a few calculation sites:

A room 4.2 x 3.9 metres with a hight of 2.5m, a suspended wooden floor and a large window area (double glazed french doors) (4.6m2) on the only outside wall (cavity) requires a BTU output of around 4650.

The current rad is 1600 x 400 single with convector fins. It looks like a seam edge stelrad. Their specs indicate this rad has an output of around 4750BTU.

So, good to keep?

I was just thinking, if there is a time to change it, with the system drained and redoing the pipework, it is now.

 

[Gossamer]

You might want to double check your calcs. Off the top of my head I reckon a room like this (assuming its ground floor) needs nearer 6000 BTU.

 

[dishman]

Interesting, I used an online tool - but I thought it was a good idea to check with the folks on here.....

Yes, ground floor, heated room above, timber suspended floor with void below.

Hmmm 6000 - would defiantly call for a double.

I'll check a few more on-line ones but if you can confirm that, or if anyone else can confirm that it would be nearer 6000BTU, that would be very helpful.

 

[dishman]

One site says

1) 5675-6825
2) 5186
3)7953

The most comprehensive questioning was 1).

The question is, if I do change it, do I go for a longer single, maybe 600 x 1800. Or a shorter double 1400x600.

 

[Agile]

Longer single spreads the heat better! So more comfort.

Installers prefer double as less work for them to fit a shorter rad!

I would aim for about 1.6 kW and use a longer single.

Tony.

 

[DP]

Selecting a radiator is a personal choice dictated by room size and placing of furniture within. Often a radiiator is fitted where you are unlikely to locate a piece of furniture, near a door for example. In a large room a radiator at the door liable to result in colder area at the window, so a split often works better.

My choice would be a double radiator opposed to a something that is nearly 2m long. A radiator that size will require three brackets, no big deal but wall marking and fitting will need to be good else radiator will be a mini see-saw

 

[dishman]

Whoopse, I have just realised that the rad in this room is not 1600mm but is actually 1800mm x 600mm, which has an equivalent wattage of 1800w or 6300BTU. Think it is a keeper.

However, the rad in the front room which is a double convector 1400 x 600 does need replacing. The output is fine I think (although I think it had a sludge problem), but it looks damn awful. A real workshop/industrial looking thing.

I am tempted to replace it with a 2000mm x 700 single. Less obtrusive in terms depth, and long enough that a sofa wont cover the whole length.

The question is, can I be bothered.....

 

[dishman]

Further question - With a single radiator that has convector fins such as the stelrad elite K1. The valve connections are independent from the main body of the radiator. With it mounted in the recommended position on the wall mounts (nearest notch to the wall), because of these inward facing connections, they nearly touch the wall (can't even get a little finger behind them).

This makes it very tight/impossible to fit a standard TRV valve on the radiator valve. I do prefer this position as it is tight up against the wall and looks a bit smarter. However, the TRV valves I have are too big.

1) Is this a common issue? As I see it, no matter what wall it is on this would always be an issue, manly because the valve connections face inwards and restrict the space available.

2) Are there any slim TRVs (good quality ones) that are not much bigger than the valve connections themselves.

Many thanks in advance.

 

[FiremanT]

Whoopse, I have just realised that the rad in this room is not 1600mm but is actually 1800mm x 600mm, which has an equivalent wattage of 1800w or 6300BTU. Think it is a keeper.
.

How old is the rad?
Modern rads have a larger output per sq ft than old ones, So you cant use a modern rad size list to calculate.

2) Are there any slim TRVs (good quality ones) that are not much bigger than the valve connections themselves.

Drayton TRV4's?

 

[durhamplumber]

hard hat.thick overalls.two light sources.someone on top.???FFS......bunch of snowflakes.dont forget your CO detector.Radon detector.gloves.more gloves incase of frostbite. fire extinguisher a definete requirement.safety goggles a must !!.gas mask.method statement.risk assessment.

 

[Agile]

Feet, BTUs.

Dinosaurs!

 

[dishman]

How old is the rad?
Modern rads have a larger output per sq ft than old ones, So you cant use a modern rad size list to calculate.

To be honest, I do not think they are that old. They actually look very similar to the stelrad elite ones. They are seam edge, and have exactly the same offset valve connections and have the a full set of radiator fins and look very similar.

Yes, the Drayton TRV4's do look quite slim based on pictures. It would be nice to have them snug against the wall. I am not a fan on the modern big square boxed in type radiators designs. More so if it is a double.

 

[dishman]

hard hat.thick overalls.two light sources.someone on top.???FFS......bunch of snowflakes.dont forget your CO detector.Radon detector.gloves.more gloves incase of frostbite. fire extinguisher a definete requirement.safety goggles a must !!.gas mask.method statement.risk assessment.

To restore my sense of masculinity I went under there in just my underwear and using a candle for light. Feeling much better about myself now, although I think I need a knee operation and a tetanus jab now.