Modifying radiator pipe position under floor void

Living room, one external wall which is the one with the window.

If I go bigger, I will just go with 2100. The pipe will easily route under the joist. I don't really want to cut into and up through the joist.

2930w, wow, that is a lot more than any of the websites calculate. Interesting.
Website calculation???:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
Drill down through the joist FFS.
Crack on with the website calc and keep a woolly jumper to hand..
 
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Being a little oversized never causes any problem.

Being undersized and you will always shiver and wish you had done it properly!

Tony
 
You've given the basics of the room Dishman, but not the specifics. Is it a solid wall, or a cavity, sold floor, or suspended. What info did the on line site ask for.
 
The house is cavity walled which is insulated (although only one external wall with window in this room). It is wooden floor with obvious void below.

The sites asked for all this information. Trying to get a good idea as to what it should be as a baseline, then consider a slight oversize. When people say oversize, what percentage are we talking.
 
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I have an old mears circular calculator, and that gives 6000 Btus, or 1.78Kw, and then says reduce by 9% for DG, so if you've being given 1.8Kw you may not need to oversize it. Mine is pretty general in that it just asks the size of the room, whereas the online calc will ask for the size of the outside walls. If you want to play safe, then add 5%.

it looks as though you're going for a single rad with those sizes - any reason for not getting a double.
 
I prefer the slim tight to the wall look. Some doubles look so big they could be tables. OK...I exaggerate, but I do not like the boxy modern ones. The 1800 x 700 single comes in just over 2000w which is 10% more than the 1800w
 
As Agile says, you won't freeze if you go bigger, but you're getting quite competent, so consider moving the rad, and repositioning the pipework if necessary.
 

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