Modifying radiator pipe position under floor void

[Terrywookfit]

Feet, BTUs.

Dinosaurs!

Older houses were built in feet & inches so why not use them.???

My "Mears" is imperial so works well.

 

[Doggit]

Dishman, if the rad is too tight to the wall, then try turning the wall brackets round 90degrees, this will push the rad further out from the wall.

And fit some rad foil whilst you do it.

 

[dishman]

Dishman, if the rad is too tight to the wall, then try turning the wall brackets round 90degrees, this will push the rad further out from the wall.

And fit some rad foil whilst you do it.

Ahhh, thanks for that. Did not realise there were effectively 4 distance options (1.5cm and 4.5cm then 3.5 and 6cm) by flipping the bracket. The valve is now exactly in-line with the skirting edge.

I am not a fan of foil sheets. I do not think it will have any benefit on an interior wall anyway as the wall would just absorb any heat and just act as a radiator on it's own.

 

[DP]

Older houses were built in feet & inches so why not use them.???

My "Mears" is imperial so works well.

If truth be told, some, maybe not all, radiator specs still quote BTUs.

 

[Doggit]

We've had the rad foil debate on here before, and there's still no definitive result, but I've felt walls that are warm from the rads, and I've fitted the polystyrene and had it drop forward, and I'd still fit it as I see no point in warming a wall.

 

[dishman]

Each to their own, I appreciate the suggestion. If it was an outside wall, I may see the point. But an internal wall, in my view, would just work like a heat store or a storage heater does. It would very slowly give off the heat it had absorbed, so there is no effective heat loss to unwanted areas.

 

[Doggit]

It would very slowly give off the heat it had absorbed, so there is no effective heat loss to unwanted areas.

You make an interesting point, but there would still be the heat wasted to warm the wall in the first point. But as you say, each to their own - no problem there at all.

 

[dishman]

Technically the heat is not wasted from a thermodynamics point of view. The same amount of heat will eventually be given off by the wall. Heat is only wasted (from a home efficiency point of view) if it is emitted in an area that is not useful. Hence, if it is an inside wall, you will not lose any heat. The same principle applies to storage heaters. The bricks eventually emit all the heat they absorbed in the first place. There would be no net loss of energy at point of use.

 

[Steelmasons]

Technically the heat is not wasted from a thermodynamics point of view. The same amount of heat will eventually be given off by the wall. Heat is only wasted (from a home efficiency point of view) if it is emitted in an area that is not useful. Hence, if it is an inside wall, you will not lose any heat. The same principle applies to storage heaters. The bricks eventually emit all the heat they absorbed in the first place. There would be no net loss of energy at point of use.

If you feel you know so much then why seek advice for something so simple???

 

[dishman]

Can't someone who has knowledge and understanding of one area or specalism ask questions about another?

What does the concept of thermodynamics have to do with attaching radiator brackets, or going into a void under a house? (both things I have not done before)

It was a very amicable mini exchange/conversation between doggit and myself which has little relevance the what the main thread was/is about....I don't see what the problem is.

 

[Doggit]

Don't worry about it Dishman, you soon learn that threads on this site get twisted, denigrated, and whatmayhaveyou'd. Just shrug it off, and let us know when the other quotes come in.

 

[dishman]

Update:

All gone well with the radiator move. In the end I decided I was not happy with compression joints under the floor, so I used some Yorkshire connections and soldered two new elbows at the points where the old compression joints went. These were right at the point where the holes were (previous position) so it was pretty easy. Joints look good. Radiator back in it's former position!

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Next job is to to swap out the rather old/manky 1400mm x 600mm double in the front room. Again, the former radiator was 1800mm wide and the holes are present with the pipes just below. These have just been re-routed to fit the 1400mm double. So it is the same job again really.

I was looking to replace it with a 2000 x 700 but there is a double joist in the way. So it is either 1800 or 2100. I think the latter will look too big.

The room is 4.9 x 3.8 with a room hight of 2.5 and an window area of 5.36. This gives me results of around 1800w. Those with experience agree?

If so, I may just stick with an 1800 x 700 (a bit more height) which comes in just over 2000w. I assume this will suffice. It will make it much easier two with the holes pre-drilled and the pipe work just below.

 

[Steelmasons]

I was looking to replace it with a 2000 x 700 but there is a double joist in the way. So it is either 1800 or 2100. I think the latter will look too big.

Cut the joist.

The room is 4.9 x 3.8 with a room hight of 2.5 and an window area of 5.36. This gives me results of around 1800w. Those with experience agree?

You don't say number of external walls or if this is a bedroom/living area.
Sorry for not being one of the experienced but I would go for 10,000 BTU's (2,930 watts).

 

[Steelmasons]

I suspect you can do this yourself. Take a cushion and dust sheet down there with you.

 

[dishman]

Living room, one external wall which is the one with the window.

If I go bigger, I will just go with 2100. The pipe will easily route under the joist. I don't really want to cut into and up through the joist.

2930w, wow, that is a lot more than any of the websites calculate. Interesting.