Need a Straight Forward System to takle the "So called Rising Damp?"

[Groovejet]

I was thinking using these for hallway wall.
Dryrod Damp-Proofing Rods, drilled at 150mmcenters i think. Then salt neutraliser, render etc.
People keep saying Tanking is last resort? Shouldnt i tank before rendering? Also do i use lime mortar or sand & cement? So many things to do

 

[Deleted member 292770]

Ohh right, good job you said that. I didnt know the 2 salt solutions were differant. ok
Isnt SBR upto the job like? Ive always thought it was good for other jobs anyway.

it’s good stuff , but more of an adhesive /waterproofer. I used it on one job and the salts came straight through the new plaster. All had to come back off. live and learn.

 

[Groovejet]

bear in mind you’ll need to get the dpc or penetrating damp issues sorted first

penetrating damp? really? Where? Chimney? Hows it penetrating? ha ha, sorry buddy, so many questions, ill get you all some beers,lol

 

[Deleted member 292770]

I was thinking using these for hallway wall.
Dryrod Damp-Proofing Rods, drilled at 150mmcenters i think. Then salt neutraliser, render etc.
People keep saying Tanking is last resort? Shouldnt i tank before rendering? Also do i use lime mortar or sand & cement? So many things to do

you could do 2 coats of tanking first but youll be much more likely to get condensation after.
some say lime some say cement . personally id do 5;1 cement on brick with
renderguard. you could add 1/2 lime if you wanted to keep the limists happy.

 

[Groovejet]

it’s good stuff , but more of an adhesive /waterproofer. I used it on one job and the salts came straight through the new plaster. All had to come back off. live and learn.

Ohh god,lol, yeh true

 

[Deleted member 292770]

you can also buy premixed lime mortar for that very purpose. your choice.

 

[Groovejet]

you could do 2 coats of tanking first but youll be much more likely to get condensation after.
some say lime some say cement . personally id do 5;1 cement on brick with
renderguard. you could add 1/2 lime if you wanted to keep the limists happy.

I fancy using this....Dryzone express Replastering System. And boarding the walls instead. Limiting decoration and wet trades.
It looks like its like expanding foam stuff?? Comes in foil sausages. Not sure if they fit a silicone gun

 

[Groovejet]

It says that.....
The system utilises a salt inhibitor cream and a salt & damp resistant adhesive to adhere plasterboard to salt contaminated walls.
It resists the formation of salts in, or at, the masonry surface, without the need for a sand:cement render and acts as a primer for Dryzone Salt & Damp Resistant Adhesive.
Then......
A salt and damp resistant adhesive glue for fixing plasterboard directly to masonry surfaces.
Lastly.......
50 mm × 5.5 mm plastic positioning plugs. They are used to set the air gap between the board and the wall before the Dryzone Adhesive cures.
What do you think? Sounds good? Or 2 good 2 be true? lol

 

[Groovejet]

you can also buy premixed lime mortar for that very purpose. your choice.

I was trying to understand this?
It seemed that there were occasions where lime was best. Then times where Darbo was best?
Saying Lime lets walls breath, ive used darbo before and damp came back. But i also used SBR. You said the same, SBR isnt right for this sorta job.

 

[sxturbo]

It's hard to tell but looks like old gypsum plaster was on the walls meaning it's not breathable.

Avoid cement products on the walls.

For the fireplace, if it's blanked off make a feature of it and hide the vent up inside the flue of the chimney. Saves seeing a god awful ugly vent.

A dpc course sounds like a requirement, what is the floor condition? Any rot in the floor boards

 

[Deleted member 292770]

It says that.....
The system utilises a salt inhibitor cream and a salt & damp resistant adhesive to adhere plasterboard to salt contaminated walls.
It resists the formation of salts in, or at, the masonry surface, without the need for a sand:cement render and acts as a primer for Dryzone Salt & Damp Resistant Adhesive.
Then......
A salt and damp resistant adhesive glue for fixing plasterboard directly to masonry surfaces.
Lastly.......
50 mm × 5.5 mm plastic positioning plugs. They are used to set the air gap between the board and the wall before the Dryzone Adhesive cures.
What do you think? Sounds good? Or 2 good 2 be true? lol

yes I have seen it previously. looks a good system. never used it though.

 

[sxturbo]

I was thinking using these for hallway wall.
Dryrod Damp-Proofing Rods, drilled at 150mmcenters i think. Then salt neutraliser, render etc.
People keep saying Tanking is last resort? Shouldnt i tank before rendering? Also do i use lime mortar or sand & cement? So many things to do

Once dpc is there don't tank and don't sand and cement.

Lime plaster it.

It's an old pre 1900 property, cement based products shouldn't be anywhere near the walls

 

[Groovejet]

It's hard to tell but looks like old gypsum plaster was on the walls meaning it's not breathable.

Avoid cement products on the walls.

For the fireplace, if it's blanked off make a feature of it and hide the vent up inside the flue of the chimney. Saves seeing a god awful ugly vent.

A dpc course sounds like a requirement, what is the floor condition? Any rot in the floor boards

Avoid cement? So whats best? Does my Plasterboard system sound good? It'll reduce my workload also.
Im going to cap off chimney's myself. And customer wants be to remove the fire chair brick and surrounding bricks, so yeh, i need somewhere to stick a vent.
Floors are excellent. In front room, i noticed today after removing carpets, a area of varnished floor. In the center of room was a un-varnished area, where a rug must have been. So they previously took care of the floors.
You see, over the road a few months ago, i replaced many 6x2 joists , as they all rotted at the ends, where they were supported by brickwork. So i expected similar here. But their great.

 

[Groovejet]

yes I have seen it previously. looks a good system. never used it though.

It does look good doesnt it. But add the cost to the salt neutraliser and the other one needed. The cost might be high, i dunno

 

[Deleted member 292770]

It does look good doesnt it. But add the cost to the salt neutraliser and the other one needed. The cost might be high, i dunno

it is very expensive . not cost effective as a plasterer.