Thats a important point, to make sure air passes beneath floor to behind boards. Nice one, ill drill some holes.
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Need a Straight Forward System to takle the "So called Rising Damp?"
- Thread starter Groovejet
- Start date
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One last question,
If you were me, not a plasterer, but competent to patch up & do a wall or two. Would you board or render with a lime mix? Obviously cost comes into it also, and i wont be as fast as you plastering
If you were me, not a plasterer, but competent to patch up & do a wall or two. Would you board or render with a lime mix? Obviously cost comes into it also, and i wont be as fast as you plastering
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I would probably board.
Need to make sure that the damp cannot bridge across into the plaster board
Clay paint is specific to old buildings to allow them to breath
Although it can be used any where
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OP why not have a look at this site, davidkinsey.co.uk/salts? i dont agree with a lot of his stuff but he has experence and some good things to say.
all the black soot covered or soot tinged bricks have tobe removed from the fireplace.replace with fresh bricks if needed. a safety issue isthere looks like a gas Restrictor elbow in the rubble on the right of the raised hearth. read recent posts in plumbing forumabout redundant gas installations.
pics of the front door and its surroundand the front elevation from ground to eaves would help..
theres a few more biits and pieces but for now ...
all the black soot covered or soot tinged bricks have tobe removed from the fireplace.replace with fresh bricks if needed. a safety issue isthere looks like a gas Restrictor elbow in the rubble on the right of the raised hearth. read recent posts in plumbing forumabout redundant gas installations.
pics of the front door and its surroundand the front elevation from ground to eaves would help..
theres a few more biits and pieces but for now ...
some very good things to check, thanks
What are you thinking, regarding eaves?
tell80......That blog was great. If its true, he totally screws my plans up,lol. only saving grace is im using plasterboards with the cream daabs containing additives. Itll go bad slower than wet plaster finishes for sure
oh dear
If you go plasterboard then use damp resisting adhesive but dont go mixing anything with it - best for me is to not use plasterboard but, after removing all trim and skirting, hack off to bricks from floor to ? and render with a sand and NH lime render.
Thats the go to solution in damp work nowadays so dont ever use any gypsum plaster for dampwork.
Leave the bricks for a drying out period if possible and then go on to clean brickwork with the sand and lime only render
Ground to eaves pics gives the full elevation picture.
I dont have a an idea of your floor plan or how the neighbours could be affected?
Lack of a membrane under the solid floors is probably a big cause of your damp
The above, thats what works for me but other guys might do it different.
Thats the go to solution in damp work nowadays so dont ever use any gypsum plaster for dampwork.
Leave the bricks for a drying out period if possible and then go on to clean brickwork with the sand and lime only render
Ground to eaves pics gives the full elevation picture.
I dont have a an idea of your floor plan or how the neighbours could be affected?
Lack of a membrane under the solid floors is probably a big cause of your damp
The above, thats what works for me but other guys might do it different.
Skill Builder had an interesting take on it.
When these houses were built everyone had a proper fire under the chimney and there were draughts through the doors and windows.
Sealing it all up and moving to central heating stops the moisture evaporating.
When these houses were built everyone had a proper fire under the chimney and there were draughts through the doors and windows.
Sealing it all up and moving to central heating stops the moisture evaporating.
yes thats bang on
So all comments have greatly improved my understanding of so called "Rising Damp"
And its really opened my eyes. As alot of you experienced trades have said, "Rising Damp" is widely mis-diagnosed. So like i have now done.....Finding then sorting the issues relating to why there are damp walls in first place. Comes down to no ventilation & blocked air bricks or building fabric damage.
I now need adheasive to fit plasterboards. DRYZONE sell a system consisting of a cream to paint on walls. Then tubes of board adheasive containing a salt and damp-resistant additive.
Can i use normal board adheasive ? And add chemicals myself?
And its really opened my eyes. As alot of you experienced trades have said, "Rising Damp" is widely mis-diagnosed. So like i have now done.....Finding then sorting the issues relating to why there are damp walls in first place. Comes down to no ventilation & blocked air bricks or building fabric damage.
I now need adheasive to fit plasterboards. DRYZONE sell a system consisting of a cream to paint on walls. Then tubes of board adheasive containing a salt and damp-resistant additive.
Can i use normal board adheasive ? And add chemicals myself?
D
Deleted member 292770
na. pb adhesive soaks water up like a sponge.
Understood yes. I was aware of that, as ive seen Custard's home's where Dab's show through plasterboard because like you say, they act like a "Water Highway" Guaranteed to transfer damp to plasterbord face.
But ive based my approach on ridding the damp on some experience & also alot of comments from you guys.
The DRYZONE Replastering system looks good, and they sell aluminium tubes of a adheasive that dont transfer the salts.
Im interested in using normal Dab where i put additives in it. Someone will have done it before. Surely DRYZONE'S will be adheasive with salt gear in it surely
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