New kitchen sockets .. SP or DP ?

[danechip]

AFAIK the only restriction is that a central heating boiler cannot be plugged into a switched socket.
Must be an unswitched socket or a fused connection unit.
This is so that L+N isolation is assured, by pulling out the plug or switching off.

I have came across many plugged into existing kitchen sockets over the years. I wouldn't know if this is legal or not as I am just a DIYer.

What I have come to learn is that a double socket is not 2 x 13 amp, but generally more around 20A, hence my recommendation of quality double sockets in the kitchen. We know plugging a washing machine and tumbler stacked on each other taking both sockets, disregarding diversity is a no-no. But a toaster and kettle at the same time (as common as it must be) will only be for short periods. A B&M Chinese import I would not advise.

 

[333rocky333]

[QUOTE="wbmkk, post: 5118730, member: 29081"
BTW, they will be metal clad front plates if that is important.

thanks ![/QUOTE]
Think

 

[danechip]

I don't get you Rocky??

 

[333rocky333]

BTW, they will be metal clad front plates if that is important.

thanks !

Think we are all sure what you mean by "metal clad" but 95 percent of what the trade know as metalclad sockets, would look downright ugly in a kitchen.
Up till the days of the internet i bet most did not even know if the sockets they purchased were SP or DP

 

[333rocky333]

I don't get you Rocky??

Google it
Metalclad are traditionally surface sockets used in warehouses and garages, using the fronts only aside looking crap, will be too small and barely cover the back box

 

[danechip]

I think these brushed ali effect things just clip over the socket to look posh having the screws hidden.

 

[JohnW2]

What I have come to learn is that a double socket is not 2 x 13 amp, but generally more around 20A ...

It is certainly true that they only have to pass the BS1362 temperature rise test at 20A (14A+6A), but that obviously doesn't mean that manufacturers can't make ones which will happily cope with 26A continuously.

... hence my recommendation of quality double sockets in the kitchen.

I'm not sure thst 'quality sockets are necessarily any different from any others in relation to the above.

We know plugging a washing machine and tumbler stacked on each other taking both sockets, disregarding diversity is a no-no. ...

You may regard it as a "no-no", but it is a very common practice and, although we quite often hear of the exceptions, it seems that the great majority of cases give no problems.

But a toaster and kettle at the same time (as common as it must be) will only be for short periods.

True, but a WM+Tumble dryer will probably only draw a combined current >20A for relatively 'short periods' (if ever) - so not necessarily all that much different.

Kind Regards, John

 

[danechip]

It is certainly true that they only have to pass the BS1362 temperature rise test at 20A (14A+6A), but that obviously doesn't mean that manufacturers can't make ones which will happily cope with 26A continuously.
I'm not sure thst 'quality sockets are necessarily any different from any others in relation to the above.
You may regard it as a "no-no", but it is a very common practice and, although we quite often hear of the exceptions, it seems that the great majority of cases give no problems.
True, but a WM+Tumble dryer will probably only draw a combined current >20A for relatively 'short periods' (if ever) - so not necessarily all that much different.

Kind Regards, John

That's me corrected then...

 

[JohnW2]

That's me corrected then...

I'm not sure that 'corrected' is necessarily the right word - you're in very good (and extensive) company in terms of everything you wrote.

Kind Regards, John

 

[danechip]

Thankyou John. I am here just to learn really. My background is electronics, and there is so much of a difference. I have heard ' I do electronics, so electrical work is the same just bigger' The laws are the same, but in practice, definitely not.