No light coming on my room thermostat

Is the blue light on the front of the boiler flashing at all?

Is the thermostat on the boiler turned up ?

Oh, and hello evonne :D

Thermostat on boiler is turned up and no blue light flashing i. e just a steady blue light

I will bow out now as it is so late but might be back tomorrow. Thanks for replies. I think this must be a hidden leak somewhere but seems odd not to be able to get any heat at all?
 
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If the valves are defo open, it would seem that the boiler is not receiving a signal to fire up.

Very odd, because it worked before the boiler was isolated.

I would be tempted to turn the power off and back on again to the system

All rads fully open both ends, boiler valves open

If there was a fault with the boiler, the blue light would be flashing.

I will have a think on it.

You might get lucky and one of the smarty pants engineers will post while I'm sleeping :p
 
I've forgotten what boiler it is you have, is it a combi and have you got hot water?

My screen has gone funny and I'm finding it difficult to read this thread so I appologise if you've mentioned it.
 
I've forgotten what boiler it is you have, is it a combi and have you got hot water?

My screen has gone funny and I'm finding it difficult to read this thread so I appologise if you've mentioned it.

It is a combi boiler and we have hot water from it still. This morning I found a very minimal seepage from a downstairs rad valve..tiny green stain on carpet size of 5 p piece and wetness round the base of the rad valve. I have aplumber coming today to look at the wiring of the controls and the leak. thanks.
 
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It sounds like you've found your leak, it only takes something tiny for a loss of pressure.

Let us know how you ge on.
 
It sounds like you've found your leak, it only takes something tiny for a loss of pressure.

Let us know how you ge on.

Perhaps ..it's just that initially we did have other leaks as the pipes were old and too much pressure from the new Combi and yet they did not stop the heating happening altogether and the green light on dial still came on?
 
Turn the power off and then back on again, sounds silly I know but give it a go.

All engineers try this at some point when they are running out of ideas.
 
The installer of the boiler came today and found that my Honeywell programming unit had broken (after just 7 months) which explains why I got no light on my dial for temperature downstairs. This was ascertained by taking the unit off the wall and manually switching heat on at the level of the wires in the wall..it came on. While he was here he got the pressure up and running with the heating on. It seems OK so far but of course when we are not wanting heat it may go down again as last time. I asked why this should happen and he said the magnet cleaner for the rads (when heating is not on) sucks in air with the old iron sediments and sends air to the boiler. It should be set right by just topping up pressure but this did not work last time so watch this space.
Bosch will be servicing this combi next month so hopefully they will clean the magnet too. Installer says he does not think the minimal valve leak I found today would stop the heating coming on even if the pressure has dropped a bit. The trouble is that last week when all this arose the pressure was right down and would not top up and it should not need doing more than 1-2 times a year..
 
There would have To be quite a bit of muck in the system to cause what he is suggesting and bo locks springs to mind

If his theory were true, it means he never cleaned the system on install, which he should have done, and no installer would fit magnetic filters as they would be forever getting callbacks.

You could phone the manufacture of the filter and see what they think of his theory

The tiniest weep can cause pressure loss, check that rad valve every now and then with a bit of tissue
 
this magnet thing, is it a dark red plastic canister with a black plastic cap?

did he show you how to empty it?
 
There would have To be quite a bit of muck in the system to cause what he is suggesting and bo locks springs to mind

If his theory were true, it means he never cleaned the system on install, which he should have done, and no installer would fit magnetic filters as they would be forever getting callbacks.

You could phone the manufacture of the filter and see what they think of his theory

The tiniest weep can cause pressure loss, check that rad valve every now and then with a bit of tissue

Whatever his efficiency level is I can say he DID drain and clean out the system..never seen such a lot of gunk in my life. and he had the magnet dipstick emptied twice...showed me the tar like stuff clinging to it. He said there is probably a good bit more in there and this will be cleaned out when Bosch do the service next month.
 
When you say drain and clean out the system.

He would have to drain the system in order to install the new boiler.

Cleaning the magnet is not cleaning the system.

There should be no gunk in a system with a new install, as all the gunk must be cleaned out, otherwise your warranty can be void, and it will damage your boiler.

There are different methods and views on cleaning but the end result should always be a clean system if it's not this would be deemed a bad install and fiitting a magnetic filter is not a fail safe as it doesn't pick up all of the particles on the first pass.

If you started another thread with the title should my system have been flushed and cleaned, you would see what I mean by the response you would get
 
When you say drain and clean out the system.

He would have to drain the system in order to install the new boiler.

Cleaning the magnet is not cleaning the system.

There should be no gunk in a system with a new install, as all the gunk must be cleaned out, otherwise your warranty can be void, and it will damage your boiler.

There are different methods and views on cleaning but the end result should always be a clean system if it's not this would be deemed a bad install and fiitting a magnetic filter is not a fail safe as it doesn't pick up all of the particles on the first pass.

The clean out took nearly all day and a huge tank of black stuff was taken away. Our rads were old but he said they were fine no need to replace them although we were prepared to buy new rads. Apparently the black comes from the rendering down of metal surfaces within the rads and is an ongoing thing. More residue was expected so he put in a magnet. I dont know the rights and wrongs of all this just telling it as it is.

If you started another thread with the title should my system have been flushed and cleaned, you would see what I mean by the response you would get
 

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