No Water in Hot Water Tank?

[Kelanen]

You need to know:
Is there 230V at the immersion heater terminals (not just at the thermostat)
What is the resistance across the heating element
turn off the power first and test for dead

Okay, well if (if! lol) I'm using the meter correctly, there is indeed an electrical problem.

What's the test for dead referred to?

With all the relevant electrics switched off, and wires disconnected, I show 19.6ohms resistance across the two non-earth terminals (labelled Neutral and T? what's T?). I believe that's the correct method, I have no idea if that value is what you expected or not?

Reconnecting all the wires (and sadly breaking one screwdown on the thermostat) switching all the switches and trips back on, I've then measured AC voltage across all combinations of the live and neutral wires, and the live, neutral and earth terminals (earth is irrelevant here right?) both before and after the thermostat. All readings show 0. I also rechecked the fuse in the airing cupboard with the meter, and it's not blown.

So, if what I've done is correct, then this means that power isn't reaching the immersion unit, and the problem lies somewhere between it and the distribution board with all the trips?

I can test inside the power switch in the airing cupboard, but beyond that the wiring is all inside the walls/floor, so from that point I'm stuck.

The fact the 16amp trip doesn't fail means this is okay I presume. No possibility around that?

 

[Agile]

Okay, well if (if! lol) I'm using the meter correctly, there is indeed an electrical problem.

We told you that without having to use our meters!

We also told you your tank was full !

You next need to test at the consumer unit but only if you can do that safely.

Have you inspected the connections inside the switched fused spur?

Tony

 

[Kelanen]

We told you that without having to use our meters!

We also told you your tank was full !

You did indeed. You're the experts, which is why (luckily!) I'm following your instincts not mine.. lol

You next need to test at the consumer unit but only if you can do that safely.

Consumer unit is the trip board for the house right?

How do I do it safely as opposed to not?

The multimeter is useable up to 600v - is that enough? I don't know if it electric in the street is higher voltage and steps down at that unit?

What would I do - remove the fuse, and test the terminals behind it?

I could also swap the trip positions with another known working one I suppose.

Have you inspected the connections inside the switched fused spur?

You mean the on/off switch and fuse in the airing cupboard? If so, then no I haven't, but it was the next planned step...

 

[Agile]

Dis the power and open the switch spur.

The carefully reconnect the power and see if you can find any live in the spur.

Measure between the pipework ( earth ) and the spur connections.

Look at it first in case there is any obvious damage.

Tony

 

[Kelanen]

No signs of damage at the spur, no sign of life either. 0 reading on all connections, whether earthed on the pipework or the internal earth on the switch.