Oil boiler in utility room 'a bit smelly'

Really I don't think that gap is anything to worry about,on servicing make sure the techs change the nozzle,if you aren't sure of size of nozzle post it on here and I'll check my books and tell you,need make of boiler and size in btus or kw,also make sure they take out and clean the baffles also when the analyser has been used check the O2 it should not be above 4.5%-5.5% if it is then they are putting too much air in to keep it clean, you should always have a little bit of soot.
By the way heating world of spares no is 01388 760333 Bob.

Why change a nozzle unless combustion is off !!
AS for........... you should always have a little bit of soot. I set all my burners to 0 Bacharrac !!
An insulating layer of soot on the heat exchanger negates any small co2 increase gained!!!
 
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The hank you all for your learned advice.

I will order the parts from heating world spares that boffin outlined (flange, heat proof gasket, and o ring) using the part numbers provided.

The rope seal that for the big door with 4 bolts on it and the baffle seal- are they the same thing?? Or 2 separate parts? Is there a part number for this/these bits??

Steven
 
I do not think that the listed parts will cure the problem. The leak appears to be much higher from the baffle access door.
Phone Firebird for spec (They are usually very helpful ).
 
On the riello g3 or g5 you can always see the flame through the hole in front of the control box. You wont get any smell through there as it is behind the fan which blows away from it.
I would be more concerned about the leakage from the baffle access door which looks like it could do with a new seal.
 
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Only just scrolled through the whole post. I could never believe a CO reading of 0 or 4ppm
 
The print outs are the same date and if you ask boiler makers they say new nozzle every service.Also I've seen co readings of 4ppm and lower when my testo has been for service 6%O2 is too high,true you don't want a lot of soot but if the boiler is too clean then it's not efficient too much air takes all the heat out the flue and wastes fuel.Yes phone firebird they will help.Also new soot door rope won't hurt.Bob.
 
I added the same printout twice by mistake but the second lot posted are 2 different printouts from circa 2 years apart. The days makes little sense to me except the efficiency but which seems good for a 15 year old boiler.

Is this baffle seal rope a universal kind like that used on wood stoves or is it s special type?
 
Having spoken to firebird uk I had it confirmed that the baffle door rope seal size is 18mm for all firebird boilers and that they sell it in 3m pieces.

I have ordered some rope and the glue for it and will get that installed first and see if the problem is fixed.

If it doesn't solve the issue I'll get the other parts that seal the boiler to the combustion chamber and see what happens.

Many thanks to all of the contributors. I really appreciate it.

Steven
 
After looking at your photos Im amazed your service guy left some clearly overdue-for-replacement braided flexible oil lines that wrongly exit the boiler casing to terminate elsewhere. These can often give off a strong kerosene odour when they are failing normally resulting in a leak. There should be copper oil pipe into the cabinet and then the flexible line can be connected inside. As others have said, the chamber access cover looks like it has been passing gasses which clearly needs sorting as soon as possible but it won't give you an oil smell like you describe.
 
Hi danoil,

It just seems that the 2 guys I had previously had here were not up to much. I have found an older guy who visits the builders merchants where I work and he seemed as shocked you guys about the things the others had done/not done.
He advised me to do the baffle door seal myself and said he'll pop round and have a look if that does not solve the fumey smell that is present. The oily smell is sorted (I think) but I was suspecting that the flexible lines were possibly to blame. I'll get some of those and have them installed anyway as I suspect they are 10-15 years old and near the end of their expected life span.

One other question for you. I have read somewhere that the piston and little door it operates are just a nuisance as the piston o ring fails very regularly and that they are only there to stop mice from getting in and being fried in the blast tube. Would it be advisable to have the piston and door removed next time the irony starts weeping??

Cheers

Steven
 

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