Oil filter has no bypass valve

I would have thought the fact that you're here, discussing valves in oil filters with at least two people in the UK, suggests that you're wrong in that assertion...:rolleyes:

Count me out. I am here asking if there are valves in UK filters. No one knows.
 
Sponsored Links
When I fit a canister filter I like to fill it up with as much oil as I can.....instant oil pressure and all that.
The original Renault diesel (F8Q) I think was fitted on the top of the engine, upside down.
There was no way of filling it, so the engine knock as it was priming was horrendous.
John :)
 
Diesels knock like tractors. Probably not because of the oil filter. In my case, a little wear every 10 years is acceptable. The recommendation is that the engine should run before draining. That should leave a film on engine parts.
 
Count me out. I am here asking if there are valves in UK filters. No one knows.
What on earth are you talking about?! For a start, there's no such thing as a "UK filter" - they'll be at least EU, and quite possibly from other countries too! Secondly, you've already been told that some do, some don't. What YOU are asking, is whether all Nissan Micra filters sold in the UK have bypass valves in them. Which is a very different question.
 
Sponsored Links
This is getting silly.....an oil film on shell bearings (n) absolutely no way....they need a pressurised oil supply at all times. A shell bearing will ‘run’ in seconds.
The only bearing type that will run on minimal oil is the needle roller.
John :)
 
When I fit a canister filter I like to fill it up with as much oil as I can.....instant oil pressure and all that.
The original Renault diesel (F8Q) I think was fitted on the top of the engine, upside down.
There was no way of filling it, so the engine knock as it was priming was horrendous.
John :)

The filter for my Alfa is on its side, (and in a pig of a place to reach) so there's no chance of putting any oil in that before fitting. However, the bottom end on my last one was OK when I scrapped the car at 248,000 miles and the current one has been OK for the last 33 years (or 3-and-a-bit oil changes as far as Nutjob is concerned), so it doesn't seem to prove catastrophic for them - based on my statistically meaningless sample of two cars!
 
Even on the side mounted filters I find that one fill gets at least some oil into the filtering medium......probably better than nothing! There will be some lube in the galleries too, which will help.
John :)
 
This is getting silly.....an oil film on shell bearings (n) absolutely no way....they need a pressurised oil supply at all times. A shell bearing will ‘run’ in seconds.
The only bearing type that will run on minimal oil is the needle roller.
John :)

What does surprise me, is just how little pressure they need, depending on the design. My boat engine is a horrible, 10hp single cylinder diesel. It has no oil pump (or filter)! The main bearings are big rolling element bearings, but the big end is a conventional shell. The bottom bearing cap has a pressed steel scoop on it, projecting downwards. It's designed to dip into the oil in the sump at the bottom of each revolution and just scoop a teaspoon full of oil up into the groove in the shell bearing. That's it! That's the entire lubrication system! The little end is splash lubricated - as are the mains and the valvegear. About 20 years ago, I did replace the big ends, but only because the engine got some seawater in it and the rings rusted to the bore, so while I had it in bits, I thought I'd best throw a pair of shells in it. However, the ones that came out were surprisingly good! The engine's about 35 years old now.

All shell bearings work in a similar way. They don't rely on the oil pump to create enough pressure to provide a cushion against the force coming down the con rod. Just the viscous "shear strength" of the oil film. Obviously, in most designs, the pump is needed to make sure that all the bearings are "full" of oil at all times, but that's all the pump is doing. Basically the same job as the scoop on my boat engine.
 
Even on the side mounted filters I find that one fill gets at least some oil into the filtering medium......probably better than nothing! There will be some lube in the galleries too, which will help.
John :)
Yeah, but I have to turn it through about 45 degrees such that the open end faces partly downwards, in the course of manoeuvring it into position. It's been cleverly designed so that coming off (and going on if you try to put any oil in it), the bloody thing pukes oil all over the driveshaft and rearmost engine mounting! Probably wasn't a bad job when the engine was installed North-South, as originally designed, but an absolute pig as a transverse installation!

When I start it up after an oil change, the oil light stays on for something like 5 seconds, but it feels an awful lot longer!
 
What does surprise me, is just how little pressure they need, depending on the design. My boat engine is a horrible, 10hp single cylinder diesel. It has no oil pump (or filter)! The main bearings are big rolling element bearings, but the big end is a conventional shell. The bottom bearing cap has a pressed steel scoop on it, projecting downwards. It's designed to dip into the oil in the sump at the bottom of each revolution and just scoop a teaspoon full of oil up into the groove in the shell bearing. That's it! That's the entire lubrication system! The little end is splash lubricated - as are the mains and the valvegear. About 20 years ago, I did replace the big ends, but only because the engine got some seawater in it and the rings rusted to the bore, so while I had it in bits, I thought I'd best throw a pair of shells in it. However, the ones that came out were surprisingly good! The engine's about 35 years old now.

All shell bearings work in a similar way. They don't rely on the oil pump to create enough pressure to provide a cushion against the force coming down the con rod. Just the viscous "shear strength" of the oil film. Obviously, in most designs, the pump is needed to make sure that all the bearings are "full" of oil at all times, but that's all the pump is doing. Basically the same job as the scoop on my boat engine.
Interesting! I must say I’ve never seen that on a diesel engine but it’s well common on petrol stationary types. On a motor of that age I would have thought the con rod would have cast in white metal, rather than replaceable shells. It sounds like a Lister or Petter.
John :)
 
This is getting silly.....an oil film on shell bearings (n) absolutely no way....they need a pressurised oil supply at all times. A shell bearing will ‘run’ in seconds.
The only bearing type that will run on minimal oil is the needle roller.
John :)

Ok, then. I don't know what bearing my car has. But it ran fine with a new dry filter that was on the same level as the engine cover.
 
Your car engine has almost entirely shell bearings, which require a constant supply of lube....as stated the pressure doesn’t need to be particularly high but the oil volume needs to be there.
The gearbox however is entirely ball bearings which are happy with splash lubrication.
A car oil pump can supply a surprising volume of oil at low speeds - such is their design. That’s probably just as well when we consider the revolutions it has to deal with, and the distance the camshaft is from the crank.
Large truck diesels have a number of pressure relief valves plus a full flow filter and a bypass filter but I’ll not go on.
John :)
 
PICT0002.JPG
Interesting! I must say I’ve never seen that on a diesel engine but it’s well common on petrol stationary types. On a motor of that age I would have thought the con rod would have cast in white metal, rather than replaceable shells. It sounds like a Lister or Petter.
John :)
A BMW no less! A D12. A rare beast these days. Back in the early '80s, BMW decided that they wanted a slice of Volvo's pie. Volvo having more or less cornered the small marine diesel engine market. They didn't design it themselves, they went to Hatz, a German supplier of small plant engines, and asked them to marinise one. It had a baby brother, the D7, and there were some larger ones too.

All the more remarkable, because it was intended to run on a straight SAE 30 grade mineral oil, so at operating temperature, it must have been practically like water!
 
Well interesting! Direct injection, looking at the piston. I'd guess these are directly water cooled and hand start?
Presumably this engine was designed to run on canals, being a wet sumper - unless the sump was heavily baffled.
What RPM are we looking at?
Thanks for posting this - I love the old stuff, it reminds me of my classic dumper!
John :)
 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top