Oven with 13 Amp plug - can it work on 16Amp MCB?
- Thread starter Ct1071
- Start date
Sponsored Links
So have a faulty socket outlet, so that needs replacing
You can change that to a socket outlet or fused connection unit, how is the hob connected?
Again, think I have confused thing - sorry.
Currently the oven has a 13 amp 3 pin plug on it. I was using a normal socket on the right of the oven but following the advice on here - tried using it to boil a kettle and discovered that socket has a fault. The switch isnt solid so it going off and on - thats why I think it trips the downstairs breaker. So I tried the oven on the left of the oven and it works perfectly - thank you all for the help on this.
What I then wondered - as there is a direct point behind the oven - which has its own 32 amp breaker - can I take the plug off the oven and wre it into that point. Its not a 3 pin plug point - i would need to wire it in. As its a 32 amp breaker I'm guessing this isnt going to work?
Currently the oven has a 13 amp 3 pin plug on it. I was using a normal socket on the right of the oven but following the advice on here - tried using it to boil a kettle and discovered that socket has a fault. The switch isnt solid so it going off and on - thats why I think it trips the downstairs breaker. So I tried the oven on the left of the oven and it works perfectly - thank you all for the help on this.
What I then wondered - as there is a direct point behind the oven - which has its own 32 amp breaker - can I take the plug off the oven and wre it into that point. Its not a 3 pin plug point - i would need to wire it in. As its a 32 amp breaker I'm guessing this isnt going to work?
Sponsored Links
Fully understood and as I said:
Yes you can and the breaker does not need to be changed.
We understand this, you have been perfectly clear.
Firstly you need to replace the faulty socket, it is not going to go away or get better and could in the future cause greater issues.
Then with regards to the 32A cooker circuit, I would suggest that the outlet plate was replaced by a 13A(three pin) single socket outlet, then there would be no need to remove oven plug or replace the 32A MCB.
it's also possible to leave the cooker connection point (which probably has large stiff wires feeding it, which can be awkward to put into a socket's terminals) in place, and wire it to a surface-mounted socket.
the cooker outlet will be useful if you, or someone else, later decides to get a dual oven, or an electric cooker that incorporates two ovens or an electric hob. None of them can be supplied from a plug and socket.
the cooker outlet will be useful if you, or someone else, later decides to get a dual oven, or an electric cooker that incorporates two ovens or an electric hob. None of them can be supplied from a plug and socket.
The oven will not fry, leaving the plug on means it is protected by the fuse in the plug. But as the oven only requires a 13A plug, that would suggest that the oven is rated at around 2kW. So the oven demand will only ever call for that current. The important thing is to protect the cable or flex, which you should have no issues with.
I assume as the oven was originally plugged in, that there is space to use the cooker outlet plate as a socket and the oven will still fit into the oven housing, without sticking out any.
Ct - if Smeg sell that oven in other European countries then they are selling it to be used where there are no such thing as 13A fused plugs or 13A fused connection units.
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
