Please help -at my wits end

So the wind is still gale force....flicked the boiler to 'on' and its working this morning????
WTF???
 
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had this problem before on the same boiler.
wouldnt start up in morning with programmer.
run hot water tap and got hot water then boiler would run no problem.
in the end it was the pump, it would stop at certain point and would not start(rotation wise).
dont know for sure but pump maybe have less voltage when starting on heating rather than full power, and if you ran hot water voltage was enough to get pump going to start ignition seq and off it went.

i would get the pump changed again its worth a try ?

wish you luck this job will give someone a sore head
 
had this problem before on the same boiler.
wouldnt start up in morning with programmer.
run hot water tap and got hot water then boiler would run no problem.
in the end it was the pump, it would stop at certain point and would not start(rotation wise).
dont know for sure but pump maybe have less voltage when starting on heating rather than full power, and if you ran hot water voltage was enough to get pump going to start ignition seq and off it went.

i would get the pump changed again its worth a try ?

wish you luck this job will give someone a sore head

Hi
Thanks for the input ...it seems to have had a new pump every year for the last 10 yrs. I will pass the message on to the young BG guy who has been coming out. Though he is convinced its something to do with the meter...cant see how myself as my gas cooker isn't effected.
The young chap that has been coming out is trying his best to work out what's wrong but as its an intermittent fault its like trying to do a jigsaw with half the pieces missing, I'd guess! He has a sore head and I'm fed up of being cold!
Cheers
Ani
 
I'm assuming this is a 24iRSF, the problem is generally with a heating demand but on occasions affects the hot water.

Get the clock and room stat (if fitted) bypassed to rule out a controls issue.

Check the tempertaure control is working ok (spindle often breaks).

Leave the temp control on minimum, in the morning turn it up and see what the boiler does. Pull off the outer front panel. Check the fan runs (go outside and feel the flue terminal), see if the electrodes spark, does the gas valve open (normally hear a clunk), does the pump run..use a screwdriver from pump body to your ear etc etc.

These boilers are ultra reliable, at this age most are now on there 2nd pcb and fan but otherwise a very simple well built boiler.

Has anyone considered trapped condensation in the air pressure switch hoses? Worcester ignored the APS manufacturers advice and installed the switch and hoses in a position vulnerable to condensation build up in the hoses. This can be sufficient to stop the switch activating. Any problems here though would also effect the hot water.

In heating mode the burner pressure is held low for a considerable time. I suspect the min burner pressure has not been correctly set on the gas valve when it was recently replaced. This may have introduced another fault so this needs checking. It's possible the flame detection is marginal especially when the wind is excessive.

Check the flue gas sampling cap is still connected...it's on the top of the boiler, left hand side just behind the overheat thermostat button. AFAIR this is tee'd into one of the air pressure sampling hoses and the cap must be in place.
 
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I'm assuming this is a 24iRSF, the problem is generally with a heating demand but on occasions affects the hot water.

Get the clock and room stat (if fitted) bypassed to rule out a controls issue.

Check the tempertaure control is working ok (spindle often breaks).

Leave the temp control on minimum, in the morning turn it up and see what the boiler does. Pull off the outer front panel. Check the fan runs (go outside and feel the flue terminal), see if the electrodes spark, does the gas valve open (normally hear a clunk), does the pump run..use a screwdriver from pump body to your ear etc etc.

These boilers are ultra reliable, at this age most are now on there 2nd pcb and fan but otherwise a very simple well built boiler.

Has anyone considered trapped condensation in the air pressure switch hoses? Worcester ignored the APS manufacturers advice and installed the switch and hoses in a position vulnerable to condensation build up in the hoses. This can be sufficient to stop the switch activating. Any problems here though would also effect the hot water.

In heating mode the burner pressure is held low for a considerable time. I suspect the min burner pressure has not been correctly set on the gas valve when it was recently replaced. This may have introduced another fault so this needs checking. It's possible the flame detection is marginal especially when the wind is excessive.

Check the flue gas sampling cap is still connected...it's on the top of the boiler, left hand side just behind the overheat thermostat button. AFAIR this is tee'd into one of the air pressure sampling hoses and the cap must be in place.
Hi
Thanks for all of the above. Yes the boiler is 24iRSF combi, fitted in 1997.

I will print all of your message off and pass to the engineer next time he is here.

The pcb and fan have been replaced at least 3 times, twice by Worcester when they couldn't work out why the boiler had this intermittent fault. I have four neighbours, all of them have exactly the same boiler which was fitted at exactly the same time. No-one else has the same problems! Beginning to think its me, shame I can't breath fire though! ;)
 
So today the heating wouldn't switch off, not from the programmer switch (off/timer/on setting at side of clock dial)!!!!

I had to turn the mains off.

And now the boiler wont light at all...not for water or heating.

BG on their way out again.

Ani
 

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