Rate this Job! - Cooker Hood / Extractor Install

Be reasonable. If you went to a mainstream high street kitchen retailer that design and fully fit the kitchen - would you go through - each of their workers qualifications and experience as they walk through the door - one by one?

Be reasonable.
Okay then. Did you ask to see the qualifications of the three electricians that you got round to quote for the job? What about the one that was lucky enough to be granted the work - did you see his? What qualifications were you willing to accept - you seem to know about these things....

Presumably the qualified electrician you have engaged will be issuing some sort of certificate when he has finished? Any chance you can post a picture of it - I’d like to see it so I know what to look for in case I need to get a qualified electrician in to properly certificate any electrical work done in my house. Thanks.
 
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I think the real problem is that the OP came here with a pile of photos expecting/wanting people to tell him that the work which had been done was unacceptable, and became rather unhappy and argumentative when the responses he got were not really what he wanted to hear.

Kind Regards, John

Tbf he got defencive when he was called deluded and that someone felt sorry for workmen in his house.

Also when he was accused of bad maintenance (quite possibly true).

But he didn't ask if he caused to original problem.

He appears to be happy with the work done and just wanted clarification.

People questioned what the spark had done, as I said before I think he did more than spark would be expected to do.

That saying are electricians only able to do electrical works or can they diversify a bit? (Seems his spark gave him a complete package).

At no point unless I'm mistaken has he said he's unhappy with the work just that he wanted other people's ratings on the work so he doesn't get screwed over again.

The op is making sure all is good protecting his family and home.
 
Apart from the electric advice already posted,the duct install could have been done differently.

Usually those hoods have a rear duct exit,personally i would have used the rear duct with a short length of suitable smooth pipe and suitable flap louvre vent.

This method has the advantage of keeping the pipe as short as possible,smooth pipe will not trap grease and condense in the corrugations and a slight down angle towards outside will prevent any grease/condense entering the extractor. Periodic cleaning of the pipe is recommended.Internal cleaning of the hood is essential.
If the extractor has Aluminium mesh grease filters they do not stop all grease entering the extractor,fleece/charcoal mat filters offer more filtration.

There could be an external obstruction on sirlancelot's external wall,existing wall apertures do not have to be used :idea:.
 
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Usually those hoods have a rear duct exit,personally i would have used the rear duct with a short length of suitable smooth pipe and suitable flap louvre vent.
Yup.

upload_2018-7-1_11-7-27.png
 
the rear duct seems to being discontinued on newer hoods. I got an Elica in a model that was listed as top-exit only. In fact there was also a rear port but it was blocked off by the plastic moulding of the "snail." There were instructions for tearing it open, but the snail design was such that the top port had much better airflow. Their canopy models are all top-port. This is a bit inconvenient if you already have a duct through the wall positioned for a rear port.
 
I'm pretty sure the large pipe was because for some reason the op could only reduce to 100mm or increase to 150mm, and the outlet was 125. I think opinion was split on whether smaller was a problem for noise/efficiency/back pressure. Personally I'd always maintain at least the original size, it's not quite like a foul drain but even so I'd let it flow freely
 
20 years ago a kitchen fitter with zero electrical qualifications would have fitted that as part of a job
The OP may well have told the new electrician to use the existing hole, and supplied the bits
 
Need some help understanding something:

He did't removed the plastic film covering the rear of the unit, that contacts the wall:

Z.jpg


(Pic was taken when the unit was being unpacked pre-install).

It's currently there on the rear of the unit - as installed.

Is this protective covering supposed to stay on the unit after install - or was it supposed to be removed?
 
You've just taken this off the wall!

Why would you take a picture of the rear of the unit and only just mention it??

o_Oo_Oo_O

Very Strange.

Andy
 
Need some help understanding something:

He did't removed the plastic film covering the rear of the unit, that contacts the wall:

View attachment 144101

(Pic was taken when the unit was being unpacked pre-install).

It's currently there on the rear of the unit - as installed.

Is this protective covering supposed to stay on the unit after install - or was it supposed to be removed?

Andy - you on Meth? Or something else?

After the unwelcome approach of a select few fellow members on the forum - I got up on a step ladder - and took a look today. The plastic can be seen in the original pics - poking out the top - of the unit.

I'm asking - should this be there?
 
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Film doesn't matter it's just too protect the finished metal sheet from scuffs, they just bend oi into the right shape for the hood and leave the film for the customer. Obviously scratches on the back don't matter but the metal manufacturer doesn't know, there's no need for anyone to remove it at any stage later as it's hidden. Hope this puts your mind at rest.
Don't over think things you'll cause yourself more stress than the danger caused by any installation issue.
 
If you are concerned about the cable sitting on the extract, put a screw in the wall and cable tie it to that.

The tape packaging states for sealing heating and ventilation ducting, so its being used for its designed purpose. If you are concerned, prob best to ask a ducting supplier.

Im surprised the sparkie wanted to do any more than just do the electrical part.
 

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