Replacement mower rpm question.

[ipbr21054]

I have had to buy another mower & photos are attached.

A few little teething problems but nothing major & nearly completed.

My question is I wish to bring the revs up a little.
Please advise what lever I need to bend or spring altered etc.

If I need to remove anything to show a different photo then please advise.

Thanks.

 

[Burnerman]

We'll need photos of the carb linkages please......from the governor to the carb itself.
Does the engine speed up if the throttle cable is pulled back in it's clamp?
John

 

[ipbr21054]

It does but I would say it’s not really noticeable.
When I’m home I will take photos.

 

[ipbr21054]

Here we go.
See photo

 

[ipbr21054]

Was this the photo that you requested?

 

[Burnerman]

Not the easiest one to adjust, I'm afraid!
However.......
Before we get in to bending things, give the machine full throttle, but no choke, and then see if slackening the cable grip and pulling the cable back a touch makes any difference.
If that is a no go, I'd consider bending that rod that is sloping (middle of the pic) where the spring hooks on to the rod loop a touch towards the vertical......you can always bend it back but don't overdo it!
I think this engine is meant to run at a constant speed....is that correct?
Why do you think the engine is running too slow?
John

 

[ipbr21054]

One of the issue. The cable block is broken & has a jubilee clip around it. New one ordered.

Sounds slower than what I’m used to but it could be that as I’m also waiting for self propel cable once here things might be different.

Owner had always undone the two knobs & folded handle in half each time so cable is crushed.

 

[Burnerman]

Always a bad move to fold these mono strand cables, it always ends in tears! The outer sheath splits and lets water in, the cables then rust and kink. Avoid if at all possible!
I have a feeling that once you replace the cable block all will be good.....a brisk walking pace is just fine.
John

 

[ipbr21054]

Ok cheers.

Awaiting parts to arrive.

 

[ipbr21054]

Not the easiest one to adjust, I'm afraid!
However.......
Before we get in to bending things, give the machine full throttle, but no choke, and then see if slackening the cable grip and pulling the cable back a touch makes any difference.
If that is a no go, I'd consider bending that rod that is sloping (middle of the pic) where the spring hooks on to the rod loop a touch towards the vertical......you can always bend it back but don't overdo it!
I think this engine is meant to run at a constant speed....is that correct?
Why do you think the engine is running too slow?
John

Job for the weekend when parts arrive.

You say slackening the cable grip & PULL THE CABLE BACK.
Would that be towards the engine direction or towards the handle bar direction ?


The bar that can be bent is that the one shown by Red arrow if yes which way.

Direction of White or Blue arrow ?

See attached photos.

I’ve had it all apart today & did an oil change & fan belt, clean internal parts of wheels & geared cogs.

I like the wheels better on this mower as the metal geared cog is bigger than my other mower & also the track it runs in is all around the inside of the wheel where in my other mower it meshed with a removable plastic gear that moved around a bit.

I also see no adjustment for the tensioning of the fan belt.
It seems loose but when self propel is engaged it must tension up somehow otherwise it will spin on the gearbox pulley / blade pulley but so far haven’t worked that bit out.

I’ve removed the cable for the stop start lever & did my usual modification as when I empty out the grass box I can be having it stop / start all the time.

One thing I don’t like & looking for some advice is the height adjustment lever.

Grass isn’t always on a flat surface & occasionally hitting a stone / divot causes the lever to pop out of its securing hole & to the lowest setting. Before I’ve spotted this the grass behind me has a strip of grass much lower than the rest. So what can you suggest please.

 

[Burnerman]

To adjust the throttle cable, slacken the clamp and pull the cable towards the handlebar. Just a few millimetres will do.

You can try bending the rod more vertical, that is in the direction of the blue arrow. Careful with this one!

The belt tension can be courtesy of two methods.
1, the axle may be spring loaded (most likely)
2, if you lift the rear grass discharge flap and you can see a round projection there may be a nut and spring beneath.

Those height adjustment levers are always too thin and the spring loading is too weak and are a constant problem.
I’d recommend replacing them.
On some machines which I have seen in very poor and abused condition I’ve actually removed the adjusters and bolted the levers in position. Not the best idea I know but it prevents the deck from constantly dropping!

If you have the stop start cable removed, how do you stop the engine? I usually cobble up some device that keeps the dead man handle fixed temporarily to the handlebar.
John

 

[ipbr21054]

Grass box removed. There is a small square inspection cover. Remove this & gearbox is shown. I see a 3 inch spring on the left so this alters the tension of the belt

The old mower had a threaded rod / nut setup.

In last post is the lever which operates the stop / start.

I have 1 lever on the right rear wheel. When moved & the nipple inserted into hole in deck it not only alters rear height but also front height by a rod that goes from rear to front.

Not quite sure about the replacement height adjuster as I will only get another the same.
I need to alter the height in some gardens so I can’t bolt it to a fixed height if that’s what you mean.

 

[Burnerman]

All pretty logical there!
Maybe the new height adjustment lever has a stronger spring or maybe you could reinforce it somehow with a strip of steel behind....anything to stop the nipple popping out of the adjustment hole. It’s a poor design, at the end of the day.
John

 

[ipbr21054]

It looks like the adjustment lever is just bolted to the rear of one wheel.
The metal is quite thin & has the nipple half way up which just pops into deck hole. Lever continues up a touch where is has a finger loop so the user can move it.

You only have to sneeze & the nipple is out of the deck hole. This obviously didn’t get looked at when making them as it’s a real poor non working design. There isnt any kind of pressure or coiled spring to force it into the deck hole. This is why it comes out so easy. Don’t relay want to use a bunji cord going to other side of deck but what other options are there.

 

[Burnerman]

Maybe you could somehow restrict the springiness of the lever.....a large washer or maybe a thin steel plate that restricts the movement of the nipple out of the hole?
Over to you to come up with a solution!
John